Jump to content
SAU Community

Diy:diff Shimming For R33 Gtst

Trust33

By Trust33,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bauerpower Newbie

Bauerpower

Posted
Posted

Defiantly worth the effort. Both wheels lock well under power. Can boost it rite up in tight corners and also both compression lock up under braking and the car remains straight. Feels much, much better then the 2-way LSD in the Passage. When it does let go in a power slide the control is incredible compared to before. A recomended mod for anyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 233
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Cubes
Cubes

Simply add the new shim to the existing shims. I usually remove the diff by: 1. Drop the sway bar chassis mounts, leave the risers attached. 2. Remove tail shaft. 3. Remove Half shaft bolts (have

Rolls
Rolls

It is just shims, they can be easily removed or changed. No need to find a whole new diff.

Bauerpower
Bauerpower

For the first time in its life my 33 has finally seen some decent hp after a turbo upgrade (gt3076 on 20psi) and an ecu of course. Not to my surprise the LSD had no chance at doing its job and started

Posted Images

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Defiantly worth the effort. Both wheels lock well under power. Can boost it rite up in tight corners and also both compression lock up under braking and the car remains straight. Feels much, much better then the 2-way LSD in the Passage. When it does let go in a power slide the control is incredible compared to before. A recomended mod for anyone.

Where are you located? Would you do the job for others as I don't have the appropriate tools and my car always one legs and pulls to one side. Obviously some moola will be given. Can post the internals so you don't have to take the entire diff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bauerpower Newbie

Bauerpower

Posted
Posted (edited)

Its a very time consuming process and time is something I don't have at the moment. Probably give me a month and PM me and it might be possible. Between this car and work there's nothing left. Sorry.:(

On another note I hit a realy tight corner yesterday going way too fast and got a chirp from the inside wheel so its defiantly working well.

Edited by Bauerpower
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Are the part no. For the shims the same for a r32 diff?

Cheers- trent

Yes, I used the part numbers in this thread to buy shims for my 32gtst diff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

saved our ass here in the UAE =) doing it now.

fitted em up, what a bitch to get the center back into the car lol. when i finaly got it in, the splines on the longer half shaft didnt line up in the final section. what a bitch, back out with the center it came, i did actualy line up the splines like you said, might i add for anyone else doing this. once you put ur shims in put both half shafts into the center completly in, then tighten the 2 philips heads, then leave the shafts in. put ur ring gear over the top and rattle that up with the half shafts still in the center. makes it alot easier and no room for error. the first time i was literaly .2mm off the splines being 100percent. and yet it wouldnt go in all together.... peace!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

Any chance of getting the pics working again really want to give this a go. So say about 3mm would be good for drifting or should i go more like 3.4?

Pretty much depends how screwed your diff is, it'll basically either be almost completely locked or it'll skip around corners and open up under power (worst of both worlds), or it'll be the same.

So just go the biggest you can get in there if you want to lock it, if you want it to be like an LSD just get an LSD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I used 2x 1.49mm shims (one on either side), it was pretty well locked to begin with but after a couple of weeks it had worn in nicely and is now just like a new LSD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

My local Nissan had them in stock.. did they say they were ex-east? or ex-japan?

3 weeks sounds about right from Japland, everything I've gotten that was ex-east gets sent in an overnight bag so I have it within a couple of days (case in point, ordered a brake booster 1-way valve on Saturday that was ex-east and it arrived yesterday).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Dan_J Veteran

Dan_J

Posted
Posted (edited)

just got around to putting mine in,both sides have a shim or 2 with 3 in total so i've got more then 3.6+ mm in there nearing 4 id say (will need to double check invoice to confirm).

so question is how long does it take to bed/ wear in as in getting some shuddering under hard cornering ?

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

I used 2x 1.49mm shims (one on either side), it was pretty well locked to begin with but after a couple of weeks it had worn in nicely and is now just like a new LSD.

:rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
vnordin Newbie

vnordin

Posted
Posted

Hello!

I have heard that you can´t shim up a GTST Diff for it´s a viscodiff and not a lsd diff, the shims may take all the power from the diff and the viscodifferential will break? That a shimmed diff will not work in the long run? Is this bullshit or true?

Many people seem very happy with their but boring if it would break!?

sorry for my bad English, I am Swedish pirate.gifaction-smiley-069.gif

Victor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Duncan · Posted

      I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • Duncan
      Manual Shifter slightly bounces/moves/vibrates when accelerating/deaccelerating

      By Duncan · Posted

      sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • Murray_Calavera
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Sleepergm
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...