Hi I'm installing HKS adjustable cam gear on my RB25DET

I'm just wondering what settings I should use for stock internals, the car will be getting tuned afterwards with a haltech e11v2 I just need the standard settings thanks, I'll save the rest for the dyno

Cheers Steve

set it at 0 would be agood start.

Oh wow thanks mate...

Perhaps I didn't word my question correctly although I've solved my problem anyway, keep your sarcasm to yourself thanks.

You should dial them in with a degree wheel and a dial indicator, if ya want to do it properly? Otherwise just leave them at 0 and let the tuner do it.

Good luck.

Cheers mate I appreciate the help, I found a DIY by Sydney Kid that should have all the info I need to get them sorted, thanks again

Oh wow thanks mate...

Perhaps I didn't word my question correctly although I've solved my problem anyway, keep your sarcasm to yourself thanks.

Its actually not sarcasm at all.

I would be starting at zero myself.

Every car is different. Some cars take to different settings.

So its better to begin neutral and let your tuner workout which setting is the best for your application/car

p.s risking tunes car's

degree wheel and dial indicator? wtf. you bolt them on at 0. then adjust on the dyno and check results but at no point do you need the degree wheel and dial indicator.

I agree with beer barron and ash. I would definitely be starting at zero.

Most people find they gain results havign the exhaust cam retarded - 4 d. very minimal gains are to be had from the intake cam. Having said that though, every car is different. You can't just bung it on 4d retard and expect it to be the best. it might ping like hell, and make less power, or it might be perfect.

When I do mine, i'm gonna leave the cover off, go to the dyno. pay for 3 power runs and muck around with it.

Edited May 2, 200719 yr by MANWHORE

yeah if you're in sydney I'd reccomend getting UAS to tune the cam gears. heaps of places wont do it claiming no power increase (even some tuners I respect and use). so when I went to UAS I got ben to do it. took around 1.5-2hours from memory and cost a couple of hundred bucks but the result was well worth it. especially on RB26, but they have told me good gains can be had with Rb25s too.

so by all means fit them yourself, but just leave them at 0 and get them adjusted on the dyno.

degree wheel and dial indicator? wtf. you bolt them on at 0. then adjust on the dyno and check results but at no point do you need the degree wheel and dial indicator.

yeah he is kinda correct, especially if you have fitted a head gasket RB30/25 conversion etc.... the spec sheet that comes with the cams gives a certain duration at a certain lift (example 156 degrees duration @ 0.050" lift) you check the lift with the dial indicator and the duration with the degree wheel

i have had a few cams (majority older hks) ground a few degrees out and the only way to know where your absolute "0" is to "DIAL" them in. Then adjust from there. The supra we built for Autobarn has the absolute zero at 3 retard on the inlet and 2.5 degrees retard on the exhuast, this is due to head gasket and machining altering cam to crank distances.

Edited May 3, 200719 yr by URAS

yeah when fitting cams for sure it may be needed. but not just bolting on cam gears (which is what the dude was talking about). when I've done it it was: old gears come off. new gears go on. everything else stays the same. drive to dyno, adjust and check results.

yeah when fitting cams for sure it may be needed. but not just bolting on cam gears (which is what the dude was talking about). when I've done it it was: old gears come off. new gears go on. everything else stays the same. drive to dyno, adjust and check results.

ahh yeah for sure, news cams=dial..... old cams new gears= no dial

thanks URAS, an old school method that not many people understand and use these days.

Agreed about dial indicators and wheels. Esspecially after head machining/gaskets etc etc.

As for a general "optimum" setting there is no such thing. Every car and every owner responds differently. I agree with Barron about the whole tunners perspective but honestly you will find those that dont beleive in tunning with gears are the ones that

Dont really understand what they are trying to acheive ( they dont see bigger numbers at the top so it must be a waste of time and effort right??)

Its all too time consuming and they dont fully understand what they are doing (they are not as good as they say they are at the end of the day)

I dont see my reply as sarcastic or rude I see it as the truth. There are good gains to be had in drivability, mid range and top end also. RB25's respond well to a gear as do the 26's.

SR20's usually I dial the cams if they are aftermarket and make an educated decission if gears are needed or not from the dowl locations on the given cams.