After 3 years of owning my R33 and having it stock standard besides a turbo back exhaust ive decided to do some slight modifications and after reading all the informative information through the years have come up with this list.

My parts list so far

R34 SMIC

SAFC 2

R33 GTR fuel pump

Exedy organic clutch

The judge is still out on the boost control option im stuck between a R32 wastegate actuator or EBC. If I go the actuator would the care still go good even though its going to be 5psi on low rpms then 10psi on higher pms??? I dont really want to slice and dice the electronics of the car to take off the two stage system. So any opnions would be appreciated. Also anything else you guys suggest I should do also.

Thanks

nice choice, mite want to look at an air filter if you havnt already

for panel: k&n hi flow , and for pod: apexi power intake.

maybe some suspension/brake upgrades?

sounds good mate. are you still running the stock turbo? if you are run a maximum of 11 psi and you will notice the difference and i would run a good electronic boost controller so it dosent spike.

good luck

Edited May 4, 200719 yr by R33GOD

Bypass the standard boost solinoid with the r32 actuator and it will just run 10psi.

Edited May 4, 200719 yr by fEkuaR

Bypass the standard boost solinoid with the r32 actuator and just it will just run 10psi.

Yeah this would be good but then that involves the slicing and dicing of my ecu.

Yeah this would be good but then that involves the slicing and dicing of my ecu.

no it wont.

to run the 32 actuator all you do is replace the 33 one with the 32, they are a straight swap (exactly the same except for the set spring pressure) and then all you do is bypass your boost solenoid.

to do this you disconnect the vaccum lines from the boost controller and consettina pipe that goes to the turbo and run just 1 vaccum line from the intercooler nipple to the actuator and done, your now running 10psi.

Quick hint tho: get an aftermarket boost gauge installed before you put the actuator in. this will allow a more accurate reading of the boost your running. some r32 actuators have had their springs changed for 15psi or 13psi, and the standard 33 turbo cant run that. Some other sau forum mebers have experienced this, and spikes of 15psi from a changed spring are common so do that first

As Uras said it wont require any ecu modifications. And since you are going to tune the car with a safc 2 it will be perfectly fine and will make full use of the extra boost through the rev range.

Edited May 4, 200719 yr by fEkuaR

Nice choice. Nice to see you've done some reading. I'd hit up the 32 actuator (runs as much boost as you'd want to on the stock turbo). don't worry about low boost high boost etc. Just control boost with your foot.

I'd just remove that 2 stage bleeder thing. If the 32 actuator doesn't run enough boost, put in a proper bleeder.

32 actuator - cheap yet effective

are you planning to do any furthur mods.....

just get yourself a propper cooler kit

good choice with fuel pump and ecu

with boost control a HKS actuator for $180 or so from SlidingPerformance will be good boost control

i thought the HKS actuator was pretty useless under 14psi? i remember reading that somewhere.. so correct me if i'm wrong.

ill correct you its good for anything from 6 to 17 psi so far ive tried it, had it on 6 for testing then cranked it to 17 then settled with 13 as i wanted it there

I've been testing the hks actuator, and I have reservations about it. I'm compiling some boost graphs atm.

I vote, replace with the R32 actuator, AND keep the solenoid.

10psi low revs and 12psi above 4500..

Seriously, that'd be awesome!

Might be fuel cut issues though on standard ECU but it's worth a think

Boost controllers....

For low boost (say 12 and under) i'd save the cash and get a bleeder. You can have my Turbosmart one for some small $$ and holds boost well enough.

Fluctuates 1 psi across the range but really, does it matter? Noooo.

So don't underestimate the bleeder. They work and are popular because they do work....and they're cheap.

If you're replacing the clutch, only do it cause you have to, as in worn out.

You won't need a super good one until heading over 200rwkws, so if the old one is OK, don't worry about it.

I had 195 rwkws on a 3yr old standard clutch and have never had a problem.

Probably older than 3 yrs old, it's the same clutch it had since the car was imported. Still going strong.