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My 300rwkw Adventures


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Awesome result. And a .63 garret IW + water/meth = very nice streeter.

Top work. So........... Whats the boost vs rpm your seeing in top gear?

A little boost creep I see... Whats your dump pipe setup? Are you running a split 2" wastegate and 3" dump?

Regardless considering the power being made and the small exh. a/r the garrett IW is doing well.

I've gone with the gt3076 .82 iw 1bar w/g on the 3ltr so also expecting close to 300rwkw on the usual 18-20psi, GO GT35 every one said.. bah I have no need for a turbo that has the capability to make close to 400rwkw, its a waste of response and spool.

I hope the mid range of the smaller turbo doesn't fry the tyres too easily. :)

Well, its goes like this on the street

2nd - 3900

3rd - 3500

4th - Less than 3500

ALso, there isn't boost creep, its the actuator. The shop in mackay here being useless, got me a 9psi actuator which gives the Gizmp a bit of a hard time. I've go the gizmo set at 18psi, and it holds it quite well. It must hold the gate shut for a while, and then goes to open it, and since the 9psi is so sensitive and weak, it struggles to keep it were it should be? Trying to get a 14psi actuator, if anoyone knows where i can get a second hand one (Smaller type)

This is not the plotting/sampling rate, it is the ramp rate, the speed at which the dyno allows the engine to rev. Running a 5kmh/sec ramp rate is crazy on a turbo car, the first time i dyno tunes(on a piece of shit vane dyno)the operator got me to do that, and i cant believe the motor didnt blow up, the dyno pull would take 24 seconds!! Great results mafia, just get that pump fixed and ride the torque wave.

Thanks heaps mate. I'm looking at this fuel pump volt mod today. I've got access to the dyno almost 7 days a week, and probably 24\7 if I give notice, so I might even go back this afternoon to fix up the top end.

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wicked result.

Fun to drive hey! Was looking at the 3037 a while back as I am thinking of a slight bigger turbo - good stuff.

what knock is "No KNock" ?

Mate, I wouldn't go any bigger, lag would become a huge issue.

As for No knock - All of my full load rows are reporting no higher than 25. I have heard a "tink" at 40, so be careful.

Edited by The Mafia
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Mafia, what is your view on the 0.63 A/R housing? Any reason you would go to the smaller size when there seems to be a preference amongst other owners for the 0.82 or 0.87 offered by Garrett/HKS in this turbocharger range? Is it possible that the smaller 0.63 is holding the engine back from its maximum potential at higher rpm? (and this is not a slag of "you haven't got the best out of your car") Just looking for some discussion on the specs you've settled on and how it equates to the driving experience.

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I think it's just good to see the .63IW housing flow those sort of numbers.

Regarding the response; does your comp cover on the new turbo have the anti surge inlet?

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Mate, I wouldn't go any bigger, lag would become a huge issue.

As for No knock - All of my full load rows are reporting no higher than 25. I have heard a "tink" at 40, so be careful.

exactly why i have been looking into it. I will read with intrest some of the specs as discussed by others in this thread.

<<25 seems good mate.

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Hi Mafia , yep the results look good so far . I'd really like to see the two manifold pressures compared to see if the EMP is significantly higher than IMP .

As far as the "six" blade GT vs "seven" blade T04S compressor families go I'll stand with the people who've spent god knows how long testing these things on flow rigs and know how they perform .

As I'm sure I've said in the past cranking 160 odd Hp/litre out of a production engine designed to make 100/L means there will be some compromises BUT you are not exactly using cutting edge technology to do it either . You fuel is limiting and water alcohol I supposed is your detonation protection system . If I told you how to make more torque and power potential everywhere without buying another turbo would you be interested ? If so what sort of budget would you have to achieve it ? If it ment possibly throwing away the water/alcohol system and having better fuel consumption would that be significant ?

Later .

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Nice result man :)

After having both the 7-blade and 6-blade "GT3076R", which do you prefer overall? Do you think the top end power justifies the extra bit of "lag" down low? What I notice about mine is its reasonably spongy below 3000rpm but then it pics up in a big way above there, so in my opinion is very liveable - I associate that kind of power delivery with what stock R32 GTRs are like.

Makes me want to get an >1bar tune :(

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well, for some reason I liked the bottom end pull the 7 blade compressor. I doubt the 7 blades would have made too much of a difference up to, maybe 20rwkw less, but the power is there, and even 280rwkw isnot much different to 300rwkw.

The 6 blade is definately not a big of a deal compared to the 7blade everyone is going on about.

Disco -

What do you mean by EMP and IMP?

And what is this iea you have?

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Interesting.........

How did the RB housing look size wise compared to the garrett .63 housing?

Maybe the combination of the slightly smaller rb housing + cropped turbine wheel made it just that bit nicer to live with every day.

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rbhousing looked quite small.

I think that was a limiting factor to the 7 blade config I had.

Also, I had the cropped 54mm turbine. If someone was going to go for a 60mm turbine in the 7 blade family, I'd shove it in a .63 garrett housing. I reckon it would go HEAPS better. Oh, and I highly doubt my 2.5inch pipe off the back of the turbo helped.

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Is there a compressor map laying around for this 7blade 76mm comp wheel?

It wasn't the GT2876 you had?

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...6R_705330_1.htm

What looks good in theory doesn't always pan out in practice. :S

Maybe the .63 is wasting a little of the additional compressor flow of the 6blade 76mm 56t comp wheel where as the previous setup was a little better matched? Its always a compromise. :D

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awesome job mafia. time for a cam upgrade and more torque :D

im jealous hehe

Well, I'd consider putting cams in for these reasons:

1. Earlier Boost

2. More Low to Mid range

3. So I can run less boost.

Are there cams that would fit these specs? Or could I get a re-grind?

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what is your fuel pressure doing?

have you got a rising rate fuel pressure reg?

on a stock engine being around 12 and above AFR for most of the run seems a little risky.

especially running a walbro.

new fuel pump is on the cards if you want your ringlands to live...

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Well, I'd consider putting cams in for these reasons:

1. Earlier Boost

2. More Low to Mid range

3. So I can run less boost.

Are there cams that would fit these specs? Or could I get a re-grind?

there should be. im running a similiar setup but much less power and looking at tomei or hks cams.

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dunno, but its been like this for the last 6 months, and hasn't batted an eyelid. Oh, and its ran 18psi for nearly 2 years. 1 of those years had a constant 250rwkw.

Very nice result man, good work, must have some wicked low end torque!

As for how the long the engine will last, i reckon the WI you run as a detonation suppressant, will keep your motor alive for a looong time, assuming the increased safety window you have inst totally absolved by a lot of ignition wound into it.

Go Water Injection!!!

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what is your fuel pressure doing?

have you got a rising rate fuel pressure reg?

on a stock engine being around 12 and above AFR for most of the run seems a little risky.

especially running a walbro.

new fuel pump is on the cards if you want your ringlands to live...

Fuel pressure - Not sure, hence why I am going to wire it up again with better wires so that the pump can see a full 13volts, not just 11volts. As per SK's thread - a Walboro 255lph needs 13volts. at 11volts, its running about 190lph.

After market \ Risiing rate Fuel Pressure Regulator - Waste of time. I do not care for these AT ALL, because my current fuel pressure is fine with the 555cc Injectors. They simply need the uel pressure from the pump to keep up with them, and they aren't. A rising rate regulator isn't gonig to help, as I assume there is no pressure from the pump to start with.

A lot of people waste their time with regulators when they don't need them. Maybe in higher horsepower applications, but at 300rwkw, or even a bit more, maybe up to 340rwkw, I'm pretty sure the factory regulator does a more than good enough job. Buy decent injectors, and run the car properly. A FPR seems like a bandaid solution to me. I'm pretty sure Dale FZ1 will have a few good points to back my argument.

I simply think that the Walboro 255lph I have simply can not supply the full pressure to the regulator at higher flow at 11volts. Jack it up to 13 volts, and there should be more than enough flow to fix that top end pressure\flow.

The other reason I assume its only running at 11volts are these:

1. If you put your ear up against the car, you can't hear it at all.

2. Its all untouched factory wiring.

3. Lean mixtures right up to, and consistant, not all over the place.

As for the AFR's. I can cheat, because I run water methanol. I'ev had 3 tuners tell me that I should be able to go a little higher and run 12.9 on full load. I'm hesitant, but as you can see, the car isn't complaining. There is no bad knock or detonation, only getting 20's on the PowerFC datalogit kit. 20's is pretty much perfect. I've heard a ping at 40 low load, but bad pinging that I can hear while on high load is usually around the 80 mark.

Dunno. Car is quite happy like this, water meth keeps the combustion temps down, detonation down, and intake temps down, even on the hottest prick of days. Might get the airtemp sensor happening. Before and after the w\m.

Bare in mind, the older B52 bombers, Supercharged and turbocharged I think, ran water methanol, and the engineers aimed for 13.2 AFRs - same as a NA motor.

12:1 and less is just being really careful, and because you have nothing in place to keep knock and temperatures down? This is all new to me, so anyone that is educated on this matter, please feel free to sign in and add to this discussion.

And yes people, if you want free power - Water Methanol Injection. A Real high pressure kit, not some dodgey washer bottle \ garden nozzle \ on\off switch setup.

In the last 12 months running this kit, I've spent a total of $80 (2 drums of methanol) and bottles of demineralised water (about $5) Kit needs to be refilled every tank of fuel \ maybe ever second tank, depending on how much you get on boost.

Edited by The Mafia
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