Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My girlfriend is looking to buy a new car in a few months and she wants to get a new car but doesn't want to spend the new price for an sti so she's looking at wrx. I'm thinking she should save taking the brand new car hit and buy a used sti. I've never been in a wrx so I'm not sure what they are like, but my friend had an sti and I loved it so I am partial to sti. What do you think? As far as used goes we're looking at 2005+.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168547-new-wrx-or-used-sti/
Share on other sites

Is she concerned about ride comfort? If so, don't get the Sti. She should really go for a test drive of both first and figure out why she would want an Sti in the first place. Buying new she will be faced with a steep depreciation whereas used this has already been factored in. Maybe just go for a 2005 WRX?

Yes, but don't forget about me! I suppose that's all it would really take though. She loves fast cars, so a drive in a wrx then one in an sti and I'd imagine her desicion is easier for her.

For some reason a big selling point to a brand new car is the factory warranty. She wants to have full advantage of the factory warranty for as long as possible. She doesn't really expect to keep the car for more than a few years but who knows. So buying a used car, that's possibly a big part of the warranty already gone.

Well I'd imagine new or used would come with a 3 year warranty. So buying an 06' model with 2 years left would be a better deal. Very rarely will anything go wrong in the first 3 years anyway. That's why Subaru are willing to give this away with a new car.

The new model WRX looks like crap (IMHO).

Having owned both models, I would recommend trying to find a good-specimen

secondhand 2.5L WRX (not STi); because it will be cheaper and go very nearly as hard.

My stock 06 2.5 STi is slower around OP south and Wakefield than my old lightly-modified

98 2.0 WRX with the same driver (me). No doubt some of this is tyres, some is brakes, and

some is familiarity - the gap (approx. 1.5 sec) exists, and is reproducible. Sure, they're rough,

slow circuits, but... the gap exists.

No doubt the STI is a good stock car; and tastefully-modified will bring it to my GT-R

on pretty much every circuit I've been on bar EC and PI. But it's a heck of a premium

to pay for the goodies (try $10k-ish).

If you were looking at roughly the same money for a 2.5 STi as a 2.5 WRX, buy the STi.

But I doubt that will happen anytime soon :)

Regards,

Saliya

I think she's looking at around 40-45 for the car. We've only recently started looking, But we don't know anyone here that owns any impreza and I'm not taking a salesman's word for anything so just getting what info I can. :)

For mods I'm assuming she'll want to do pretty much the basics, which is probably just air flow/exhaust.

But it's not only the performance of the sti it's also the look of it, both inside and out. I really like the sti interior.

rexnet.com

anyone there will tell you an STI over a wrx.

but if it is never going to see a track, then all the alloy bits in the suspension and the brembos are probably a waste of money.

Why not get the WRP10.. kind of a middle point.

looks better than stock rex.

has more power and torque, costs less than the sti..

and has some good sti bits... tuning, sway bars etc..

http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/new...u_WR_WRP_10.htm

I have a couple of friends with WRXs and they all wished they bit the bullet and purchased the sti. Their main concern is the gearbox's in the wrx are considerably weaker than that of the sti. Cost 2k a pop and one of the weakest points in the car. getting the sti will save you in the long run aslong as it hasn't been thrashed to all tits.

have a squiz around some of the wrx forums around, the habibs should be able to offer you reasonable "fullysik" advice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...