Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Exhaust Manifold Studs

Recommended Posts


Block the exhaust ports and any other pipework with rags and clean the stud area.

(Don’t be too critical of this head, it’s just on old Rb30 unit for the demo)

Photo 1. Use a sharp centre punch to accurately centre mark the broken stud.

Photo 2. Start with a pilot drill and drill squarely and centrally right through the stud.

Photo 3. Increase the drill bit diameter to that specified by the stud removing tool manufacturer.

Take care.

Photos 4 & 5. The stud tool is made from top quality steel so if it breaks off in your stud, you’ll never drill it out.

Do not use the old tapered “Easy-Out” style of stud remover, buy the correct tool.

Photo 6. Apply some WD40 or CRC to the threads via the hollowed stud then drive in the stud tool.

Photo 7. Slip the sliding nut right up close to the broken stud to reduce torsion in the tool.

Photos 8 & 9. Unscrew and withdraw the broken stud.

Photo 10. Using a bottoming tap, clean the threads in the cylinder head.

The thread size is M10x1.25

Photos 11 & 12. Use the double nut method to install your new stud.

Photo 13. Remove the double nuts and thoroughly clean the area using compressed air.

Carefully remove all rags from pipework. Use a vacuum as drill turnings will be everywhere.


This demonstration uses tools available to the average home mechanic; however a right angled drive drill is best for the studs at the firewall.

I always replace all the studs, not just the broken ones.

If available, left hand drill bits are brilliant for drilling out broken studs. The heat generated during drilling is usually sufficient to wind the broken stud straight out on the end of the drill bit.

While the exhaust manifold is removed, drill and tap out any broken heat shield bolts.

The 4-studs for the turbo often loosen in the manifold even though their nuts are held captive with tab washers. This is the ideal time to ensure those studs are re-tightened into the manifold.

Offer up the manifold without a gasket to ensure the slotted holes have sufficient room for expansion. The end cylinder’s slotted holes may need easing to achieve sufficient clearance.

Make DEAD sure all rags are removed from induction pipework etc.

Remove the CAS plug and crank the engine to prime oil up to the turbo.















Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey greg

where do you buy that style of stud remover from? I have ever only seen the easy out style of very thin tapered remover - they'er brittle.

What is your type called? are they reuseable? like can you get that broken stud off the end of it afterwards? or do you need to buy one for each broken stud

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I have come across this problem in my r33 over the weekend. Is it possible to get to all the studs inside the engine bay or will I have to remove the head? Are there any studs and gaskets to buy that are better than the rest?


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I have come across this problem in my r33 over the weekend. Is it possible to get to all the studs inside the engine bay or will I have to remove the head? Are there any studs and gaskets to buy that are better than the rest?


Massive dig there mate. You should be able to access all studs with the head on. If you're in Melbourne I can strongly recommend the thread doctor to come out and do the job for you, he charges a bit, but gets the job done really well. Cheaper than taking the head off including time and effort. If not in Melbourne call around, there should be a mobile thread doctor in your state. Unless you a really competent and have great quality easy-outs, it's a job to be left to a pro.

Edited by colourclassic
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Hardsteppa, I had to get new boots as I "massaged" it a bit before thing the press idea. I have to do the rear ones at some point so I'll pressing then
    • I'm actually in the same boat right now. What did you find as the leak?
    • Ok, took a while but I've stripped out all the non-oe wiring (I think). I found these two things under the passenger seat carpet. Am I safe to assume that these are not from factory. Etiher way there gone now anyway.    This is what I've found so far under the steering wheel. Anyone know what the white and brown connectors are? and where they connect to? I'm assuming the whatevers happend to the wires being spliced into them is not normal.
    • Heres an idea of all the f*ucked up wiring I'm pulling from the car. Good news is outside of the wiring and a weak tailgate struts the car is solid and everything else seems to be working.  
    • Hi All,  The Stags finally on the road after weeks waiting on the UK drivign agency to send me the registration. Now I need some help with identifying the harness behind the stereo and also getting the correct ISO harness so I can hook up an android head unit. I have picked up a ISO harness based on the info on the forum but its not correct and won't any of these connectors.  The wiring in the car is a total mess with what looks like to be various attempts to install aftermarket ICE. FYI - the stereo it came with was the mini disc player and 6 disc cd player/radio. There was no factory option screen/tv but there is a factory reverse camera on the trunk. No idea where the feed for that is! Here are some pics of the harnesses.     Thanks
  • Create New...