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Starting Issue - Stalls

Rob_C110GTR

By Rob_C110GTR,
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Rob_C110GTR Community Regular

Rob_C110GTR

Posted
Posted

Hi

My R32 when started cold stalls straight away if you dont rev it as soon as you start it.

What can cause this issue? thought it was a dodgy cheap ass battery but I swapped it with a good working one and same issue.

Please advice

Thanks

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DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

mine has been doing that lately, but thats cause it has been sitting in the cold, not being driven...

i think its just everything is cold... theres a slight chance it could be a lack of power, but i doubt it...

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

does it only do it when its cold? cause my 33 stalled last night, and its being worked on, so it hasn't been run for a little while... it wouldn't idle properly... not at first...

other then that, its never had a problem before...

Rob_C110GTR Community Regular

Rob_C110GTR

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  • Author
Posted

The car starts but for like 3 secs cos its idling very very low then stalls

if I start it and blip or rev the throttle a little bit it idles like normal (cold start higher rev) and runs fine, starts straight away when warm

I've read that if its the air regulator it'll idle high as well when warm, so this cant be my issue then...

AAC valve is when you have crap idle but my car idles fine.

Can someone please share some ideas

  • 2 weeks later...
msnismo Grand Master

msnismo

Posted
Posted

Could be the AAC not going to 100% on startup for cold start idle and staying at the 30% ????

Or is it the other way round???? Damn financial year end messing my brain up :closedeyes: Meh either way.... definitely check the AAC valve... I had this problem... car idled fine just took a couple of goes to keep it running in the morning!

*edit* we also found that the ignition switch was worn - if it takes a while to crank over too, check the voltage on it. I originally thought my issue was fuel on cold start (aftermarket ecu) ended up being 2 problems - ignition switch dropping current resulting in excessive cranking before firing and then the AAC being dodgy and not opening all the way for cold start and causing the stalling issue after a second or two.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Under the throttle body (guessing RB20DET), is a "cold start air valve". Can't recall if it's supposed to be open or closed at (cold) start, but then a bi-metallic strip cause it to close or open.

Pull it off, peer down the barrel. Tell us what you observe.

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

Yeah mine has starting problems also on cold mornings;

Here is a video;

Similar to your starts?

Just blip the throttle when car starts, thats what i do

edit;

this might help also

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=162728&hl=

Rob_C110GTR Community Regular

Rob_C110GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cranks fine

Rekin very similar but mine goes to normal cold start idle like 1500rpm, your's a bit low...

Yes just blip the throttle and everythings fine.

But I still want to sort it out as it shouldnt be like that.

what does the cold start air valve looks like? is it like the air regulator?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
what does the cold start air valve looks like? is it like the air regulator?
It's the only thing under the throttle body. Hoses attached to both ends. You can't miss it (unless you're blind!).

Actually, starting to sound a bit like dirty injectors. Had them cleaned recently?

Dantay Rising Star

Dantay

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, i have the same problem and even better i know how to fix it!

my engine temp sensor is kaput, it is giving a higher resistents level then it should have been which indicates to the ECU that the engine is hotter then its actually is. the result is the wrong mixture of actions and fuels during startup which results in the stall.

i havn't had a chance to get myself a new sensor since uni is kicking my ass but i'm confident this will fix the issue.

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