Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So is it a hi-flow or not? Title says so, text in the post does not.

Either way, a R33 GTS-t hi-flow vs a GT-t hi-flow is so minimal. They are virtually identical most of the time.

So what works for one, works for the other.

Yea it's a Hi-Flow R34 GTT.

Is this a better, bigger, faster turbo then the GTS-T.

So this GTT will be a direct bolt on.

With these MODS

Turbosmart Duel Boost Control

Apexi Power FC

Twin Dump Pipe

Full exhaust with 3" tip

FMIC

Walbro Fuel Pump

Z32 AFM

Sard Fuel Reg

And the GTT hiflow turbo

Does anyone have any ideal what kind of RWKW I will get with this setup?

Is this a better, bigger, faster turbo then the GTS-T.

Does anyone have any ideal what kind of RWKW I will get with this setup?

1) Not really, there is bugger all difference

2) GCG's make around 250-260rwkw. You'd be the same

cheers!

So would u need a high flow ball bearing turbo turbo to make around 250-260 rwkw or could u use those cheaper ones that aren't ball bearing...? standard bearing?

http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/Main_Menu.htm

im fairly certain the exhaust housing on the 34 turbo is larger... thats about it...

but if its high flowed, and yours isn't, grab it... a high flow is always better then a stocker...

if your comparing an already high flowed 33 turbo in good nick, to a high flowed 34 turbo, and your paying money for it, dont bother... you may be able to squeeze a few extra psi out of it, but unless its super cheap, not worth it...

Hey guys

I have a stock GTS-T turbo and looking to upgrade my turbo. I am trying to determine if I ungrade my turbo should I get this Hi-flowed GTT34 turbo, or my own GTS-T turbo to be Hi-Flowed, or a brand new turbo.

Remember guys I would like a minium 250RWKW.

So my real question is this, if I purchased this R34-GTT Hi-Flowed will it get me 250RWKW?

Are you comparing a high flow GTST turbo to a high flow GTT turbo or a stock GTST turbo to a high flow GTT turbo?

but if its high flowed, and yours isn't, grab it... a high flow is always better then a stocker...

GTS-t GT-t = virtually the same. There is almost NO difference mate.

They will both make such similar power its negligible.

And you havent said before now that you want a min of 250rwkw.

Personally, put the GCG (or whatever) hi-flow on, and what it makes is what it makes. Each dyno is different. I could give you 250rwkw on the stock turbo.

what do you guys think of this turbo...Garrett GT3076R version which we could offer on a

change over basis for $1650.00 complete kit. This would be a new unit, with

steel turbine and ball bearing, so boost could push up to 25psi and this

turbocharger would make 250rwkw on a R33?

I would like my boost to be around 16 to maybe 17psi.

thanks for all your help.

Search?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ighlite=%2B3076

And topics found:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...580&hl=3076

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...939&hl=3076

Honestly mate, there isnt a lot your asking that already has not been covered half a dozen times.

Especially the 307X series. So much great info already on the forums

BOB....But I'll just add that for 250rwkw and a highflow turbo you are probably best to upgrade the cams.

I am getting Cams.

I do want the turbo to boost a little early.

I have read so many turbo talking points and still have not made any progress.....LOL.

I think the GTT34 Hi-flowed with a larger rear housing then a V30 or a R33 is the way to go too get a 250RWKW.

I can choose a HKSGTRS and GCG or so may others but they all give the same about of RWKWs.

Its not new but a clean direct bolt-on. This turbo is nice but few are getting 250RWKW without 16 to 18psi,...Garrett GT3076R version which we could offer a complete kit.

Its not new but a clean direct bolt-on. This turbo is nice but few are getting 250RWKW without 16 to 18psi,...Garrett GT3076R version which we could offer a complete kit.

Where is the GT3076r for $1600? I rang up gcg and they said to me the turbo by itsself is $1700 and a kit was $2600... tossers want almost $1000 more for a braided oil line and water line lol.

That what i want aswell, bout 250 to 260kw but the hks gtrs is like $2100 and you'll get there with the 3076r or 3071r for heaps cheaper if u can get the 3076r for $1600.

So where is it this cheap?

Where is the GT3076r for $1600? I rang up gcg and they said to me the turbo by itsself is $1700 and a kit was $2600... tossers want almost $1000 more for a braided oil line and water line lol.

That what i want aswell, bout 250 to 260kw but the hks gtrs is like $2100 and you'll get there with the 3076r or 3071r for heaps cheaper if u can get the 3076r for $1600.

So where is it this cheap?

Hey Series2

Did you say you were able to get this turbo for $1600 or did I misunderstand you.

I am looking into the GTRS.

Justjap will have a few GT3076s soon and may look at them too.

I rang up gcg and they said to me the turbo by itsself is $1700 and a kit was $2600... tossers want almost $1000 more for a braided oil line and water line lol.

$1000 for oil and water lines?

Ease up on the bullshit mate.

Bob Thanks for the info.

This is what I wanted to know if the VG30 and the GTT34 rear housing are the same or different.

The VG30 and the R34 rear housings are the same size but both bigger than R33.

Because I want to reach not 220, 230 or even 240 but 250 RWKW and a bit more.

So getting the GTT34 HI-flowed will do this and the price is right too.

My other question Bob was is there anothere turbo that is a direct bolt-on, that cost lets say $2500 dollars too and needing no additional items?

If there is no turbo like this then the GTT34 is the answer?

$1000 for oil and water lines?

Ease up on the bullshit mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...