Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Need some urgent help! Yes, another HICAS problem.

Yesterday i installed my SAFC into my R33 and then went for a drive. Everything on the SAFC worked fine but then after a couple of minutes of driving, heavy steering and HICAS light came on. Dammit!! :P Now i know what hicas is and everything and that the reason the light comes on is it doesn't get a road speed signal from the ecu or something like that. Now my speedo in my dash still works fine, however the speedo on my Greddy turbo timer no longer works. This gives me the idea it has something to do with WIRE 53 on the ecu which is the 180 speed limit/hicas diagnostics wire etc because this is the wire hooked up onto the Greddy turbo timer giving the speed read out.

Now during installation all the wires used for the SAFC have nothing to do with HICAS or anything like that so what the hell is going on? Why has this happened now? What is causing my HICAS to malfunction?

I checked all fluids for power steering, checked the fuse in the boot for HICAS, checked all the wires on the ecu etc, all seem fine and iv'e never had any problems with the HICAS light before so it has to be something electrical that happened during installation.

I did a search for hicas and everything but they are all for R32s and usually a snapped speedo wire, but i couldn't really find something that answered my particular situation.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as i've asked a lot of people and read about 30 threads and still no answer.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;hl=ecu++hicas

This is the closest thread i could find, however was a R32 and had a snapped speedo wire.

Any one got some ideas?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180315-hicas-not-getting-road-speed-signal/
Share on other sites

We went over the car last night and checked over all the wiring and everything and still couldn't find what's causing it. This is really starting to give me the sh*ts!

The only thing we found that didn't make sense is that the road speed signal wire, when tested on the multimeter, was receiving a strong earth :S How could this wire be earthing out somewhere?

Does anyone know where the road speed signal wire goes from the ECU? Is it onto the speedo in the gauge cluster?

F**king Hicas!

FIXED IT!! Thanks for all the replies guys ;) lol

After a few days of reading threads and checking everything in the car, i somehow fixed it. Still not too sure how, but i pretty much trailed back the road speed signal wire back to the HICAS ecu in the boot and made sure there were no shorts. Pulled on the wires and stuff like that. Disconnected the battery, did a ECU reset by pumping the brakes, took out the ECU and pulled on all the wires and taped them all up really tight, then put it all back together and hey presto, no more HICAS failure and the turbo timer was displaying speed again.

Well im happy, hope this maybe helps some one in the future.

:worship:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...