Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I am looking at adding an apexi s-afc and am not sure if I should pay the extra money to get the latest series 2 model where u can have 12 preset modes instead of 8 and adjust every 200RPM instead of 500RPM. I have found this link on ebay, please have a look and let me know what u think. Does it sound too good to be true???

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...&category=43808

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18267-s-afc-ii/
Share on other sites

Hey Damo

I'm looking to purchase a SAFC soon too and I think it is worth the extra money for those extra points and functions. You even have 2 different fuel settings too for different driving condition.

I saw the link you mention on ebay. I was bidding for one not long ago but lost at the end, and the unit went for $510.

I also visited Aust Distri for Apexi in Melb, thinking maybe it is cheaper. but they wanted something like $700.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18267-s-afc-ii/#findComment-381243
Share on other sites

Skylineakt,

Does this sound too cheap though? Does it come with everything u need to install it?

Considering Apexi USA are selling its predecessor for $439US or $675A. And unique autosports in Sydney for $695. How can this guy on ebay be selling the new model on ebay for $549? Makes no sense to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18267-s-afc-ii/#findComment-381253
Share on other sites

Hey Damo

Not really sure how come they are so cheap on ebay. I know what you mean, like perfectrun got them for $660. But than again, there is a site that i visit and they trade in Japanese yen.

www.takakaira.com

From memory there selling it for $500 (aust) something after the conversion from yen to aussie dollars. Our money is pretty strong at the moment compare to the yen.

I'm assuming that it comes with everything?!?!, don't quote me on it. But in the SACF2, i think it's just the unit, a stand and the cord/adaptor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18267-s-afc-ii/#findComment-381367
Share on other sites

When i got mine through takakaira, it cost something like around 43000 yen all up covering customs and everything. They write the price on the package as much lower (4200) so that the cost of getting through customs is cheaper. Greenline is cheaper but i dont know if they do the dodgy to clear customs for less. I dont know about warranty maybe one of the things in the box written in jap is the warranty card? hehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18267-s-afc-ii/#findComment-381985
Share on other sites

How can this guy on ebay be selling the new model on ebay for $549? Makes no sense to me.

they probably come from japan! , if your going to buy an safc buy the second model and defianetly buy it from japan. Probably through greenline as they will be cheaper then anywhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18267-s-afc-ii/#findComment-381999
Share on other sites

that's pretty good for it to get to you in 5 days warrior!!!

Well worth the wait I reckon. Looking at saving $20 bucks a day haha. Do you think if I keep waiting our dollar will keep getting stronger agaisnt the yen!! haha. Maybe if it goes up to 80 yen for $1 aust, i'll be getting it for like $400!!

Have you installed it yet warrior??

Let us know how it goes with the result and tunning of the SAFC2.

Is it possible to tune these yourself on the road instead of on the Dyno?? I'll be saving further $200 bucks there hehe.

Money are hard do come by these days :devil:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18267-s-afc-ii/#findComment-382046
Share on other sites

I had the first SAFC-II into aus from takakaira, a week before their actual realease in japan. It was a pre-release deal i got from them in which they had 30 to sell before the date of release, and mine worked out $550 and took me about 4 days to recieve. Then i sold it :O ... but with the new turbo coming on tuesday i have a Unichip on its way instead :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18267-s-afc-ii/#findComment-382401
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...