Jump to content
SAU Community

Handling R32 Gtr


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have an R32 gtr 94 model with HKS coil overs, 18 x 10" with Piralli P7000 or something like that, but the handling doen't seen as good as what it could be. I am comparing it to my dads Subaru Liberty STi with 18 x 8 top of the rande Piralli P0's or what ever they are.

There is no bodyroll what so ever in mine and the ride is very rough and in the suby there is a bit body roll but the ride is really really smooth, I would be able to go around a corner faster in the suby than in the gtr for sure.

How can I get mine to feel like its more solid on the road?

Sorry if this doesn't make sense cos I don't really know what im on about but any feed back would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not really clear on what the problem is mate.

generally...sitting flatter is a good thing for handling, body roll can lead to understeer and/or oversteer.

the ride being "rough" probably suggests you have some crappy japanese shocks, have a look underneath and see if you can spot a brand.

Basically with decent shocks, the right sway bars, new bushes and an attessa controller you will have one of the best handling cars on the road :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The car just doesn't feel solid, I have had start to get side ways at like 110 around a long sweeper before and the tyres are brand new.

The brand of the shocks are HKS.

What does the Attessa controller do, how much and where to buy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol well funnily enough i sell attessa controllers - check the link in my sig. One of the biggest handling problems with a stock gtr is it runs too much rear torque which makes it power oversteer - later GTRs ran much more front wheel drive and its not as noticeable.

A lot of the japanese shocks and springs aren't appropriate for our crappy roads, I don't have experience with HKS ones though. When your suspension is too hard, if you hit a bump mid corner it can really upset the balance.

Firstly you need to check the wheel alignment and make sure you don't have any tow out at the rear. Your rear toe should be 0.

Next you need to check the HICAS rack, and in particular if the ball joints at the hub are loose - once they are worn the rear can move around a bit.

If its not that get all the other bushes checked out, there might be something loose.

Best way if you are not sure where to start is go to Pedders, get their $14 safety check, get the report and then get the hell out without spending any more. If they recommend replacing anything go to a decent mechanic and see what they say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet thanks for that i will check out the controllers and will get that safety chech done on the weekend.

Thanks again

do you live anywhere near a race track? thats the best place to test out your handling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I live near a massive mountain range called the GREAT DIVIDING RANGE, and that where I go driving so I think it has a pretty good test.

I think Duncan has totally hit the nail on the head because if I give it juice coming out of a corner the things just start getting sideway 100Km+ (i guess that was 280kws does) so there is not enough front wheel grip to keep it straight.

I will have to suss out these attessa controllers has anyone got one installed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

plenty of feedback in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...9301&st=200 including Tim's yesterday

"These are the least blingy thing you can do for your GTR. If you are looking for more noise, flash, HP or whatever - look elsewhere. All you get is a very nondescript swtich and a little LED.

On the other hand - if you want your GTR to handle like its on rails - buy one of these. Very noticable improvement on the track and I did DECA last weekend with one in. OMG - they should ban the damm thing on a skid pad it is so good (slick pad so I ran it at 7). "

We run these in the race cars they make a big difference to handling if power oversteer is your problem....but like I said above there can be more boring reasons as well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Duncan whats the price of the unit, you seem to have conviced me and how hard are they to install?

Do you have any mods to the engine or is it stock?

I get power oversteer because there is too much torque going to the back wheels so more torque need to be transfered to the fron wheels (correct me if im wrong)

The hicas is still installed, was there a noticable differance when you removed it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get rid of the hicas , the car will feel more solid , more smooth lines through corners , it just better with out it

With out oversteer u just got to have the balls to keep your foot down and drive out of it

Edited by GTR32GUS
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah i know but that comes down to your brain telling you "thats a nice looking tree, do you want to check it out a bit closer,sidewayz" or "get off the a bit dickhead there is a tree".

I don't fully get off the gas because of compression lock up or hit the brakes (worse) I just sh1t myself because a 4 wheel drift at 100km+ is a scary thing espcially in the wet (change of pants needed, I keep them in the boot).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

I have an R32 gtr 94 model with HKS coil overs, 18 x 10" with Piralli P7000 or something like that, but the handling doen't seen as good as what it could be. I am comparing it to my dads Subaru Liberty STi with 18 x 8 top of the rande Piralli P0's or what ever they are.

There is no bodyroll what so ever in mine and the ride is very rough and in the suby there is a bit body roll but the ride is really really smooth, I would be able to go around a corner faster in the suby than in the gtr for sure.

How can I get mine to feel like its more solid on the road?

Sorry if this doesn't make sense cos I don't really know what im on about but any feed back would be much appreciated.

Is there a lack of grip all the time - ie in turn-in, mid corner and exit, or just when you're trying to accellerate out of a corner? does it feel like the wheels are skipping (or loosing contact) over bumps/corrogations in the road?

if you're only having problems under accelleration, then the ATTESSA controller might be the best way to go. But I'd also check the age of your tyres first. Even the best tyres will be crap if they're old. There's a code on every tyre that can be interpreted to find out their age. Any GOOD tyre shop will be able to tell you how old they are. I've personally had 2 sets of brand new Pirellis on different cars and both were sh1te! The P-Zeros on your old man's Subie are roprtedly very good, like a Bridgestone SO2 - a very soft high performance tyre, but I'd be dubvious of anything short of that by Pirelli.

but from the sound of what you're decribing from the ride quality of your car, its probably got more to do with excessive spring and shock rate than anything else. Jap coilovers are reknowned for running silly spring rates. If it was my car first thing I'd do after checking out the tyres is find out what your spring rates are, and replacing them if they're in the crazy japanese category... A good suspension shop will be able to help you there

And check the condition of your bushes etc as Duncan suggested

My 32 GTR handled very well with the standard ATTESSA and HICAS and everything else people say is bad. Look for problems with the gear you've got before trying to patch it up with buying more gizmos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Chinese parts can be good, it's all in the quality assurance, and materials, but, that costs more, but, typically not alot more, it is up to the customer who is getting the parts made, some are happy to pay more for quality good QA and materials because the savings are in the cheap labour costs, so they can sell a quality product at a lower price point, other customers who are getting parts made give no farks and want their products to be as cheap as possible for maximum profit, so minimal QA and average materials  Hence why some Chinese parts are crap, whilst other are good Much like parts and other stuff made in different countries around the world, including "made in Australia", "made in Japan", "made in 'Merica" branded gear
    • Agree with Bogan bloke above. I like running quality tyres on my street driven cars. Wife's daily as well as my daily have Michelin PS4, good tyre that does everything you'd expect without fuss and reasonably priced for popular sizes that aren't enormous. Skyline had Yokohama on it for many years but have recently fitted zestino tyres. Just did a quick Google and they're actually Chinese made (jap designed apparently). Surprisingly they grip really well, wet and dry and haven't died, YET. Obviously on the higher end of CCP tyres but still China nonetheless. 
    • My view is to put the best tyres your budget allows for a daily, there is no run off or kitty litter on the street, only cars, bikes, gutters, trees, kids .......as for the track, it's not like street driving where you need to deal with all the thousands of Muppets that are cutting you off, slamming on their brakes for animals or pedestrians that wander into the road Every mm the tyre brakes better could be the mm's required to not running over a kid who runs out in front of you, especially if it's wet, wet weather is where most cheap tyres fail horribly, either when hard braking, or quick evasive turning even at lower speeds My Honda came with Tracmax, whilst they worked in the dry doing legal road speeds, in the wet they were rubbish  After some googling reviews I tried some Hankook Ventus Prime 4's, the difference in the dry is noticeable, but in the wet the difference is chalk and cheese, IIRC they were around $150 a tyre fitted, so for only $600 for 4 news tyres, that are lasting really well, I have tyres that actually work at legal road speeds in the wet If they save me once from "an unfortunate situation" they have paid for themselves  Tyres are one of those things that can save your life when driving, and as most of your time driving is in your daily, your daily tyres are more important than a tyre on a performance car that knocks of a second or 2 on the track My daughter is a copper, she regularly drags dead or injured people out of cars because they lose control, or run up the back of cars in the wet TL;DR. Buy the best tyres that might help save your life if $hit goes down https://www.bitre.gov.au/publications/ongoing/road_deaths_australia_monthly_bulletins  
    • Thanks mate much appreciated I'll start going through them because the subjects look important 
    • Yeah I sold it to a mate for $1000, I had no where to store it.. lol I believe it became a drift car.
×
×
  • Create New...