Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i just got a amp today and thought id get it all hooked up. Now ive connect several amps to my sub before so i know the basics of wiring a amp and sub, but this time when i wired it up the sub wasnt working.

The amp is on, ive connected the sub but its like theres no reaction, i tried mix matching channels but nothing. I took the hu out checked the wires, everything seems fine. The only other problem is that the hu's lights stay on after the car is turned off. could anyone here know whats happening and how it could be resolved, any help would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Steve.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183524-problem-working-amp-an-sub/
Share on other sites

HU on after car off? Could you have the ignition and constant power mixed up on the HU?

And you've checked your remote wire from the HU to the amp, right? A multimeter should show 12v on it when the HU is on.

Can you check all the above with a multimeter and get back to us?

Push down on the cone (gently, only need about an inch of movement), is it a smooth feeling? If not, the sub is rooted... There is another way the sub can die, the two wires going to the voice coil can snap (I've done that a few times), IF thats the case, get some wire and reconnect them...

Can you test it with another sub?

At this point it could be the amp, sub or the signal from the RCAs... If a different sub works, then it is deffinately your sub...

when i was wiring up my sub and amp everything worked except the sub. In the end i found out that where i attached my grounding wire, it wasnt a good spot..got the wire and stuck it somewhere else worked fine lol.

- i checked the ground wire and that seems to work fine

- master/slave settings are fine

- the subs cone goes down smoothly so it doesnt really indicate that its rooted

- the wires going to the sub seem to be fine, not that ive tested it with another sub but they look to be fine.

The only thing to check is the impendance accross the sub, when i can find a multimeter ill have that checked, otherwise theres nothing else that i can do, other than take it to someone that knows what there doing to sort it out.

Thanks for your help guys/girls,

Steve.

I guess the next step is to eliminate either the sub or amp from the problem. Hook up an ordinary car speaker or something to the amp instead of the sub. Don't turn it up super-loud, but if it works, the sub is dead. (possibly burnt voice-coil or something?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...