Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


for sale r32 $13000 with mods


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Latest Posts

    • Hey I have a spare CAS unit if you wanted to borrow or buy
    • All issues mentioned are mitigated by running billet gears and a long nose crank. My question pertains more to the oil pump housing differences. I already have an RB25 pump housing I wanted to put billet pump gears in. I was wondering if there's any advantage if I purchase an N1 pump instead and put billet gears into that. Even stranger is I found a link (One in OP) that states the RB25 pump housing is actually preferable which I'm wondering why.   Thanks
    • In the middle of the rb25 upgrade on the rb20. Its actually a Arashi bolt on. Its in and lined up perfect First question is can I use a standard hose as my oil return line? New turbo fitting is shorter and having to  change the line/hose The oil supply/intake hose has a smaller hole than stock. Not sure I should go back with the old one   Any other tips would be appreciated   
    • So just to update: I changed the brushes over and polished the commutator using a 1500 grit sanding sponge; it was super easy to polish being copper. A power tool wasn't necessary, although could have made it easier if you have the finesse to use it well.     Yet this was to no avail, the motor worked as it did before, stop, start, stop start, etc. Today I went to my mechanic's shop to do a few things. I showed him the motor and asked in broken Japanese "who can fix this?", he took it from me and had a crack, was able to fix it-ish. From what I could understand (which is very little), the problem with the motor was with the clutch disc located amongst the gears, I saw it whilst he was working but couldn't identify any issues. I say he fixed it-ish, because now the motor will run continuously when free from the rack, which is great. But once I had reinstalled it, the tilt function would work but the sliding function sounded off, like the motor was under more load than before and the motor was struggling. We're going to pull apart the rack in the new year and see what we can find.  Hopefully this is of some help to others that get sunroof motor issues with their R34, S15 Silvia, or highly unlikely the Z10 cube. I will update this when more progress is made.
    • AFAIK in the RB26 section of the service manual it explicitly says not to take apart the AAC valve. If you took it apart once there's no harm in taking it apart again to see if you can save it.
×
×
  • Create New...