Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. just a quick question.

Whilst you have a fair bit of gear taken out of the car, i.e intake pipework, intercooler piping, bov return piping etc. and you know theres a little bit of "foreign material (i.e metal flakes and dust from polishing and not being careful enough to seal up the ends). What methods/products would you use to get all the junk out. Cant use a cloth odviously as it will leave more stuff behind. Maybe a degreaser but still need to flush the pipework. Maybe an air compressor but with the slight oily layer inside some may stick and not clear out. Maybe water but not sure it may cause corrosion down the track. You should see where im coming from.

Anybody got any thoughts/ suggestions. Currently the cars in bits but most of the polishing/painting is done and i dont want to reassemble until im 105% confident i wont have bits of metal flying into the turbo. :cool:

(As you do)

Cheers for any help. Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211608-flushing-dustgunk-out-of-pipework/
Share on other sites

i use a 50/50 mix of metho and kero to flush out my cooler and piping. just pour it in and shake the pipe with something covering the ends then flush out with water and allow to dry. It should take out the metal flakes as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...