Jump to content
SAU Community

What Spark Plugs For Rb25det?


J-train
 Share

Recommended Posts

If you can run the 1.1mm gap without it missing then do it. The bigger gap the better. People only reduce the gap when they are running large boost or have old, weak coils that can't provide a strong enough spark

That's true, only reduce gap if you have to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NGK BKR6EYA. = 0.8mm

I was running these on 10psi with stock ECU. No Problems.

Installed an SAFC 2 and my Tuner gapped them down to 0.7mm due to old Stock Coils. No Problems.

NGK BKR6EYA-11 = 1.1mm

I will go back up to 1.1mm soon as I just bought some Brand New Stock Coils.

This will be interesting...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I thought.. I will try the 1.1mm gap an see how I go. It only has 140k on the engine so coils might be fine.

Is 1.1mm and 0.8mm the only 2 gaps I can run or should I try lower the gap in 0.1mm increments like as in if 1.1mm doesn't work maybe try 1mm then 0.9 then 0.8 or is that pointless? I'm new to the whole boost scene so excuse my lack of knowledge haha appreciate everyone's help :)

If they are the original coils at 140kms then they will probably be getting a bit weak.

And yes, you can just drop the gap by 0.1mm increments until it doesn't miss

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want cheap BCPR6ES, get them off eBay

Just buy more than 12 at a time and it works out pretty sweet, $2.90 each delivered

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NGK-spark-plug-BCPR6-ES-plugs-BCPR6ES-tradeprice-2330-/330828510503?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d06ea7527

I just ordered 24 lol, works out to be $2.81 each.. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the 1.1mm gap works fine. Revs sooo much smoother now. Coils must be good :D Old plugs had a little miss before it revved. Doesnt miss at all during idle or rev. Have no driven it yet to test them under load but all seems fine. Thanks everyone for your help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

I've checked alot of places and I can't seem to find BCPR6ES spark plugs with 0.8mm gap I can only find 1.1mm and super cheap say (after rego checko) they are not a right fit for the rb25. After alot of searching and doing my head in I found BCPR6ES with a 0.9mm gap from justjap so that's what I went with... ?‍♂️ Stock rb25

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Kiza said:

I've checked alot of places and I can't seem to find BCPR6ES spark plugs with 0.8mm gap I can only find 1.1mm and super cheap say (after rego checko) they are not a right fit for the rb25. After alot of searching and doing my head in I found BCPR6ES with a 0.9mm gap from justjap so that's what I went with... ?‍♂️ Stock rb25

 

Hmmm. You just set the gap to whatever you want with a very cheap tool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Kiza said:

I've checked alot of places and I can't seem to find BCPR6ES spark plugs with 0.8mm gap I can only find 1.1mm and super cheap say (after rego checko) they are not a right fit for the rb25. After alot of searching and doing my head in I found BCPR6ES with a 0.9mm gap from justjap so that's what I went with... ?‍♂️ Stock rb25

 

I use those plugs with 1.1 gap and have zero issues. Drop gap if your coils are shit, otherwise leave at 1.1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So why so hard finding info ? Gapping copper/nickel and platinum plugs is trivial. Iridiums are the only ones you've really got to be careful with. In NGK if it has no - prefix at the end it is like this-

# heat range.

Copper/nickel plugs, the bcpr#es is pregapped to 0.9mm / 36 thou, there is no 0.8mm gap in bcpr#es coppers.

Platinum plugs BCPR#EP and Iridium plugs BCPR#EIX, are pregapped to 0.8mm / 32 thou.

A -11 at the end indicates an 1.1mm / 44 thou gap as an option, available in all of these plugs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Kiza said:

I've checked alot of places and I can't seem to find BCPR6ES spark plugs with 0.8mm gap I can only find 1.1mm and super cheap say (after rego checko) they are not a right fit for the rb25. After alot of searching and doing my head in I found BCPR6ES with a 0.9mm gap from justjap so that's what I went with... ?‍♂️Stock rb25

 

Also 5 is stock NGK heat range for RB25, 6 for RB26.

Probably why Repco / Supercrap say it's the wrong plug too.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
    • Great discussion guys. I just have coil overs in my car right now. Ride is pretty stiff and everything feels very precise and accurate when hitting the corners. I started off with a high level and kept specimen.   the only item I feel I might need to adjust is my camber with control arms or a kit as I might want to tuck in my rims more so there is no rubbing. Otherwise I have not thought too much into it as quite happy with the setup. I think the bushings are all good still.    My motor is currently out now but I have got a nismo front strut bar to install. So that should help with body roll in front.    added a photo of what I started with before the modding or let’s say modernization of parts started. 😂
    • Thank you both, much appreciated. Yes, 6k miles, not a typo lol. The underside, engine bay, engine, trunk, interior, etc., look great and super clean, has all the splash guards too. Not sure if you can expand the photos, but the dash pic shows the ODO. She looks brand new, inside and out, even has the original Nissan TV/DVD/Nav head unit; still thinks it's in Tokyo haha! I used to own a '94 MKIV Supra, sadly sold it years ago, but wow I love the Skyline so much! The R34 gets SO much attention here since they just became legal to import last year.  
×
×
  • Create New...