Hey guys,

I got an r32 wastegate actuator last week and installed it on my r33 s2. I was running the stock one before this with the high boost thingy. Anyways my car use 2 miss but i fixed that with the shelly's silicone.

Once installing the r32 wastegate actuator i drove the car for a few days and it would always miss in high revs on COLD mornings before work. On the way home from work in the arvo it was always fine with NO miss at all. Last night it missed again when it was cold.

Anyways i have a JJR split dump/front pipe and i unbolted it from the turbo and took off the wastegate actuator. The problem is that the thing the wastegate actuator arm connects to touches the inside of the dump pipe quiet a bit.

I just wanted to know if this causes any problems and should i do something about it rather then bolt it back together and put my stock wastegate actuator back on?

Thanks guys

if you mean that your wastegate valve hits the dump pipe flange on the inside, then use a grinder and mod the dump so that it has clearance.

Yea the actuator flap touches the inside of the dump pipe. I was thinking to use a grinder but i don tthink ill be able to get it far enough inside and even if i could it looks like it needs quiet a bit grinded out, to the point that ill probably put a hole in the dump pipe.

Do you know what problems can happen if i dont fix this issue? Or am i fine leaving it the way it is?

Cheers.

I had the same problem on my sr20, I had to change from a split to a single style and grind abit of the inside out.

It shouldnt cause it to miss, the only problem it could cause would be if the wastegate flap cant open far enough. the car will overboost.

When you swapped actuators, how did you set the boost level?

It sort of sounds like your miss problem is seperate to the flap hitting. If the flap only hits when it is already fairly wide open then it may not be the reason for your miss.

High revs on cold mornings with dense air and better cooling means better boost.

With the standard actuator i was using the high boost trick and when i swapped actuators i left it using the high boost. It some times creeps to about 12 or 13 psi in second which causes it to splutter with cold weather temperatures.

I was planning on putting my original wastegate actuator back on (which i did yesterday) because i dont want to go over 10 or 11 psi. My main concern now is the fact that the flapper is still touching and has been since i put the dump/front pipe a couple of months ago. I just want to know if its ok to leave it the way it is or should i end up changing the dump pipe?

Thought i would also say im not impressed with the JJR split dump/front pipes now due to this cause if i have to spend money on another drump/front pipe thats bullsh*t.

WET-25T i'm actually really suprised that you've found the flap to be hitting the inside of the jjr dump. I'm assuming you think its hitting like the roof of the upper dump line (wastegate line). and i'm also not sure how you can tell this completelybecause once its bolted up its bolted up and you can't observe whats going on.

i'm saying this because i have a jjr dump installed on my s2 r33 and i am actually quite happy wit the product. Honestly didnt notice a massive increase in power but the cars completely untuned (stock ecu) and these mods DONT necessaily mean increased power but will down the track. i did however notice induction noise came on earlier, so that prob means it is helping gain boost

i also run a turbotech boost controller and have set it to 12 psi, it pretty much hits this spot on according to my boost gauge.

yeh just a little suprised with your findings is all i have to say.

i could sort of understand what youve found....but yeh my experience is it operates fine...

ps i'm also running standard actuator to the best of my knowledge (never had the boost controoler off to tell realy)

The reason i know its hitting is because i knew i was gona get an r32 actuator so i read about them on SAU and found a thread where the guy had the exact same problem. What i did was i unbolted the dumppipe from the turbo but NOT from the cat so there was enough room for me to see what was happening when i pushed the dump pipe away from the back of the turbo.

With the dump pipe pushed back as far as it could go i opened the flap completely and the part where the actuator arm connects onto faced completely towards the back of the car. Then i pushed the dump pipe back on and opened the flap completely again but instead of facing the passenger front seat, it was pretty much facing the drivers seat.

With the dump pipe away from the turbo again i freely opened the flap again and could see the flap inside the back of the turbo physically hitting the inside of the wastegate dump pipe. Also note i had the actuator fully disconnected.

The end result is the flap DOES hit the inside of the wastegate pipe and quiet a bit to the extent where i dont think grinding it will make any difference in relation to it not hitting at all.

You should check yours out sometime i bet you will be surprised.

In regards to the JJR split dump/front pipe, i am happy with it except for this issue which i think is understandable.

Also i was originally using the high boost trick. I had the turbotech boost controller in my room which ive now installed again with the stock wastegate actuator and i think it was hitting about 11 psi possible with a little boost spike to 12 psi.

interesting stuff mate

i for one am not gonna change my dump cos i'm a lazy bastard...haha pretty much dont have time anyyway

hopefully someone may have an answer as to whhether a wastegate flap hitting the inside of the dump is a serious concern

obviously one would think there would be a considerable boost spike seen from this but i for one havent noticed any (apexi boost gauge...i think)

but whether or not the flap might shatter or deform in some way from the repetative impact could be another issue to look out for. My 2c is that its not a massive deal as long as your not seeing rediculous boost spike. I say this because its not like the flap really flings open real quick, well enough to damage itsef (that's how i understand it). but again thats only my opinion and i am not to be taken serious in anyway way haha.

most people would naturally say change it asap...but i'm seein no undesirable effects...so hence not changin back.

so good luck with it all anyway....and if what yu say you've observed is true (not confirming or denying) then it is quite disappointing from JJR.

Ok fair enough, thanks for trying to help me out anyways.

Im just wondering, with all the skyline wizards on this forum, why no one is trying to help me out. Do you guys not like me? Is this some kind of conspiracy against me? Should i beg for it...

Ok fair enough, thanks for trying to help me out anyways.

Im just wondering, with all the skyline wizards on this forum, why no one is trying to help me out. Do you guys not like me? Is this some kind of conspiracy against me? Should i beg for it...

I also have same problem have a r33 series 2 and got the jjr split dump pipe ... at revs over 4 - 5000 with foot down it builds boost and continues to climb until I get off the accelerator... would go up to 14 psi i should imagine... I took mine off today as i thought that was the problem after putting standard boost controller back and still had same result (overboosting). sure enough the waste gate is hitting on the inside of the pipe / welds... so I am going to attempt to grind it out and hope i dont put a hole in the pipe doing it. as the flap only opens about 1/3 the way open. Im guessing this isnt enough to stop boost building at high revs. sh&ts me to say the least as taking it off is a pain in the a%se and ive done it once already.............. I too dont want to have to fork out more money on something I already bought.

regards Rob

the only real option you have is to buy another dump pipe. consider one of the large bell mouth type ones. tomei, trust etc all work well and I haven't seen any of them have this problem. the HKS copies like the JJ one seem to get this problem from time to time as the wastegate pipe is quite small any variance in manufacture can cause problems. although if you explain the problem to just jap they would probably give you another one to try.

are you having problems with actual boost spiking? how many degrees is the flap coming out before it hits?

Yep you need to machine it out so the wastegate flap can function properly otherwise you will be making more boost than you desire = trouble

this is interesting...glad i found this!

so is this the same product as Just Jap is selling (the JJR Front/Dump pipe in one 3"?)

Dan.

ive had many issues with the just jap jjr split front/dump pipe. its a cheap and nasty product

has caused many issues like boost spikes, internal gate touching the wall ect...

Hmm. So if i have a stock R33 S1 using the R33 stock actuator&ebc and plan on usign the JJR Stainless Bellmouth Front/Dump Pipe i wont get this problem because it only occurs with the split dumps?and also r32 actuators??

Please HELP as im just about to buy one

Thanks,

Dan.

buy another dump pipe as suggested . I've bought a couple of JJR units and all of them were cheap but, basically the build quality was crap. They all needed work done to fit properly and all of them I hav seen have flange missalignments that lead to at best poor flow and at worst stop the wastegate flap.

You are going to keep a stainless dump pipe for a vey long time so save up a couple of extra months and do it right once.