Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Purchased a 32 GTR afew weeks ago.

It is unregistered but has been complied.

6th cylinder has no compression

Here are my plans for the rebuild.

Looking at sending the engine over east to Lewis Engines.

Will cost $300 to freight it there and back

Basic rebuild will cost $5600 this consists of the following:

forged pistons and rings ARIAS

bore and hone

deck block

cracktest and grind crank

blueprint all clearances

ACL comp bearings

multi layer steel head gasket

reco head

gates race belt

waterpump

tensioners

Welch plugs

reco and modified oil pump

line hone main tunnels

resize rods

new bushes and arp rod bolts balanced

Was then thinking of paying an extra $350 for r33 jun collar

$699 for H Beam forged rods

Will then slap it back in running all stock gear.

After it is licensed i will then look for new turbo setup.

Is it worth keeping twins or going single?

Was thinking of finding some N1 turbos

What do you think of the setup?

Wanting to pull around 350rwkw maybe upto 400 late next year.

Will the bottom end listed be ok to handle that?

I know i shouldnt build an engine then stick stock turbos on there but i need to get it licenses asap.

Will keep stock boost untill i can replace the turbos/hi flow them.

Could even stick a single gt30/gt3540 on there.

Will be tuning stock ecu as i have her hardware and software to do it

post-28286-1212124054_thumb.jpg

post-28286-1212124103_thumb.jpg

post-28286-1212124137_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221613-my-new-gtr/
Share on other sites

If you are looking for 350- 400 rwkw it is better to go something bigger than the N1s. If i'm not wrong, N1s probably give you 320 or 330 rwkw.

With your engine build, 400rwkw shouldn't be an issue.

Ever thought of getting an aftermarket ECU instead of re-map?

BTW, where's Lewis Engines?? :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221613-my-new-gtr/#findComment-3907498
Share on other sites

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/

ATM im more worried about getting car licensed.

I would be happy with just over 300rwkw for quite awhile.

N1's seam to give good power they are bolt on and steel wheeled.

any power goals over 300rwkw will not be for awhile id rather a very streetable car than power monster.

I real time tuned on old 32 gts-t and found the stock ecu a joy to work with.

If GTRs in Japan can run megga power on stock ecu's i dont under stand why more people dont give it a go here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221613-my-new-gtr/#findComment-3907614
Share on other sites

The build sounds awesome :D

I've heard only great things about the N1's, both street and drag/circuit.

They're almost as responsive as the stock ceramic GTR turbos but can make over 300awkw.

If i was you i'd seriously consider N1's (or a Garrett/HKS equivalent with similar A/R's).

The High-Octane R32 GTR, before it was totally rebuilt, ran N1's and pulled 400awkw from memory. Obviously that's a race engine with mega cams, but shows what the turbo's are capable of.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221613-my-new-gtr/#findComment-3907680
Share on other sites

Hey man

I had a similar engine rebuild, after this i purchased a set of R34 N1's and saw a very healthy 303awkw, with nearly stock everything apart from

full exhaust system and an apexi power fc. Couldnt say enough about the N1's, so responsive and street friendly. From what you're saying

they would sound just the thing. Good luck.

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221613-my-new-gtr/#findComment-3907796
Share on other sites

For 400rwkw I wouldn't want to be using a reconditioned stock oil pump. Go Jun, another $1000 (greenline.jp)

Also, what about Valve Guides? Head Studs? Sump Extension?

I personally wouldn't rebuild a 26 and retain the standard valve guides, seen and heard of too many guides dropping and taking a brand new motor with them.

Edited by Brockaz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221613-my-new-gtr/#findComment-3909100
Share on other sites

this round of mods is puerly to get car registered

things like oil pump and head work will be done in time.

will not be chasing any real power over stock until turbos get done even then it will only be very small increase.

400rwkw is a long term goal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221613-my-new-gtr/#findComment-3909194
Share on other sites

if you just wanna get the car running so you can get it on the road, probably your best bet would be to buy a motor from a wrecker. it would turn out way cheaper in the end. there would be no way you would catch me bolting on stock turbos to a fresh motor. you can get 300awkw+ out of stock motors easily. id say only build the motor if your chasing high power figures.

im not against rebuilds though. half way through my 2nd!.... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221613-my-new-gtr/#findComment-3909329
Share on other sites

i am chasing more than 300rwkw but not at first. no point buying second hand engine as i could put that money straight into the bottomend rebuild like i plan on doing

I will get stock turbos inspected before putting them back on if there not the best ill wont drive it untill i can get the n1's or somethig similar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221613-my-new-gtr/#findComment-3909378
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...