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I've got one skyline and a 2 door datusn 510 in the works right now. The skyline is a fujimi HR31 GTS-R. It has no rear wing, is lowered about 6 scale inches, has aftermarket 19" AVS model 5 rims in bronze, and is painted in a reallly dark (like almost black when out of the sun) blue with a heavy metalflake which looks mad when the light hits it. I also have spare mesh 15" rear wheels which I swap on occasionally, and I made up a big drifted out cannon muffler on the back. Interior is red race seats from a S4 RX7 kit, with silver/grey trim, black interior (e.g like the J's racing s15 from canberra). should finish up well.

The revell datsun 510 will be in the same blue (but probably a bit lighter due to body color), with black RS-watanabe 8 spokes from fujimi kit on the front, and black/silver mesh dish rims on the back. The interior will have one red race seat, and be stripped. I am also converting it from left to right hand drive and making an exhaust system for it.

Hopefully I'l finish them and post pics of my "seventh garage" mini drift team one day :)

I buy my kits from http://www.hlj.com

cheers,

floody

I got about 7... few are under construction.... heres a fairly recent pic of my R32s (silver HKS car is in pieces now as im finishing it off with chrome engine bay etc)

Blue one is getting new BBS wheels also

DSC00357.JPG

I have 6 so far:

- AutoArt Diecast R34 V-Spec 1/18 (champagne)

- Fujimi R33 GT-R 1/24 (painted purple)

- Tamiya R33 GST-t 1/24 (painted burgundy)

- Tamiya R34 GT-R 1/24 (unassembled yet)

- Fujimi R32 GTS-t 1/24 (unassembled yet)

- Tamiya GT-R 2000 1969 1/24 (unassembled yet)

Still looking for:

- R34 GT-T

- R32 GT-R

wheres the best place to buy the plastic bodies ones that require full assembly, e.g. fujimi and tamiya kit styles??

most of mine were given to me, but i always get them from games/model stores and they cost over 40 bucks each. is there a way to order them direct from japan? i'd love it if i could get them for around 15-20 bucks each.

I have

TAMIYA

KPGC-110

R32 GTR (road)

R32 GTR Gp N

R33 Clarion

R33 (road)

R34 (road)

FUJIMI

R31 gts-r

R34 GT-t

Autoart 1/18 diecast R34 GTR

Kyosho

1/18 diecast R32 GTR 92 bathurst winner

1/18 diecast R32 GTR 91 bathurst winner

1/18 diecast R32 GTR Calsonic (#1)

1/18 diecast KPGC-110

I also have a few rally cars and others in plastic

I am now looking for a R30 plastic kit

Glenn

coco69, there's a good model shop in Melbourne just near Myer / David Jones, in one of those streets that cut through them. If that makes sense? It's near the corner of that big road that goes to the bridge next to the train station. If that helps? lol

I don't get there very often.....

red900ss: Those directions aren't bad considering you're from Sydney ;)

It's called 'Hobby Place' and is on Lonsdale St near Swanston (a couple of doors up from Melb Central)

Another one (even better) called Traffic Collectibles in Malvern Rd, Prahran - just up from Williams Rd (opposite Safeway)

Sorta OT, sorta not, anyone know what a good grade of sandpaper is to sand back a plastic model? or a way of chemically stripping one (that won't melt it) maybe oven cleaner?? I left a kit shell on my balcony, turned my back for a minute, and a freak wind blew up, flipped it over and now the paint is full of shit. GRRRR. I need to strip and start again or sand back the affected areas. Its a fujimi kit.

cheers,

floody

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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