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Yeah Mahle make all the rings that come in ROSS piston sets for the RB engine and ACL also (because they are just a ROSS piston and Mahle own ACL now too) . JE use total seal in some of their applications but not all.

You work for performance wholesale don't you? Check with ROSS when you are back at work.

Yes Daniel I work at Performance Wholesale.

As far as Mahle/Clevite owning some part of ACL may be correct but it's still an ACL ring. Mahle Pistons as a company don't have anything to do with it. Guess it's like JE Pistons and Wiseco being owned by the same group but run as completely seperate companies.

Yes all piston manufacturers use rings from different companies for a given application. It's not like there millions of ring makers out there. You can count them on one hand.

Anyway ACL Race have stopped supplying pistons currently and Mahle have wanted us to sell there line for a long time now but we have better success with JE's over any other brand out there. Mind you we do concentrate on the top end stuff mostly.

We have found the Wiseco to always crack around the pin bore when pushed hard. Mahle have good pistons but some high profile V8 Supercar Team (see DirtGarage for who) who are sampling them are having a few dramas.

So for severe duty applications top of the list is JE or CP Pistons. We are also having JE make more of their SRP Professional Series which are better value then most other brands out there.

Anyway enough dribble for now as everyone is going to have their own opinion about "the best piston". Different pistons suit different applications.

Cheers

Marty

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horses for courses.

like choosing a harmonic balancer, some ppl here dont like ross yet proengines and hi octane recommend these.

rips racing use these on their 1300hp donks which most here would only dream of achieving

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So Greg how come hasting moly rings are bad in a turbo motor?

Because the moly is inlaid in a groove machined in the face of the ring, with detonation it can dislodge and end up scoring the bore badly. I've seen it on two different engines, both turbo, never on an NA engine. The other problem is that the ring itself is cast iron, not steel. You can bend a steel ring 180 degrees and it will bend, try to do the same with a cast ring and it'll snap before it gets half that far. That's not only for Hastings rings but any cast top ring. Once again, just my opinion.

In a perfect world you could run cast pistons and cast rings and never have a problem but why take the risk?

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So Which rings would u reccomend on a rb30 bottom end freshen up (on the cheap!!!, its been rebored to 86.5mm and using endurotech cast pistons because the bore was too worn to reuse stocker pistons), i doubt ill ever push over 420rwhp at the absolute most as the pistons, rods etc will be the first to fail. I assume all the hasting rings are cast? i got the hastings moly rings sitting here and now im concerned lol. Do hastings do a suitable ring for my application?

what would u reccomend and how much are they worth roughly? Do rb26 ring sizes fit rb30 pistons?

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So Which rings would u reccomend on a rb30 bottom end freshen up (on the cheap!!!, its been rebored to 86.5mm and using endurotech cast pistons because the bore was too worn to reuse stocker pistons), i doubt ill ever push over 420rwhp at the absolute most as the pistons, rods etc will be the first to fail. I assume all the hasting rings are cast? i got the hastings moly rings sitting here and now im concerned lol. Do hastings do a suitable ring for my application?

what would u reccomend and how much are they worth roughly? Do rb26 ring sizes fit rb30 pistons?

I use rings from Austral Distributing, could organise you a set but I'm going away this weekend for a week. They are japanese, nippin or riken, cheap as chips and a steel top ring. Ring Austral and they can tell your local engine shop to buy them from.

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For high boost / high power engines steel top rings are the best. As someone mentioned earlier, they can handle more abuse and "bend" unlike the cast moly rings which shatter with extreme detonation. In saying that, ductile iron rings are cheaper than steel and generally will be a better choice (on a budget) than a cast ring in a forced induction engine...

From experience, I have NEVER had an issue with the Total Seal brand of rings.

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For high boost / high power engines steel top rings are the best. As someone mentioned earlier, they can handle more abuse and "bend" unlike the cast moly rings which shatter with extreme detonation. In saying that, ductile iron rings are cheaper than steel and generally will be a better choice (on a budget) than a cast ring in a forced induction engine...

From experience, I have NEVER had an issue with the Total Seal brand of rings.

if i was at home i could upload some pics of a moly ringed RB25 engine we recently stripped down. top rings were in 10mm segments.

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OK guys I am going to revive this thread... i have had a google and i cant find the info i need...

I have built a few RB engines now and all have had CP pistons... All have heavy blow by and i have tried tightening the ring gaps head drains and different machine shops ect...

they all do not breathe and oil out on the street but as soon as i use them in a drift application... 1-2 min of flatout 4th gear limmiter ect they chuck out 1 to 2 litres of oil into the catch can... i dont want to know how to controll the blow by as i have tried it all... it is just too much

i want to know who has used what brand of piston for a drift application and what works... because CP is Junk and is never going in any of my motors again...

PS i dont want to know about your mates street driven 900hp rb26... its just not the same as a drift car...

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Nitto make good shit.

Though i would say your issue is drainage.... Oil pump is too efficient lol

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Yep...cp is junk...thats the problem

/sarcasm

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Tell me about the oil control mods the engines have had?

What size oil restrictors?

What has been done to head/block in relation to enlarging standard drains? What has been done to cam covers?

What has been done to sump?

What type of catch can are you running?

How have you got the catch can setup?

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Tell me about the oil control mods the engines have had?

What size oil restrictors? Can't remember it's a rb 26 with 25 bottom end and custom pistons has rear blocked and front has 1mm I think

What has been done to head/block in relation to enlarging standard drains? Yes all drilled outWhat has been done to cam covers? Mines cam cover baffles

What has been done to sump? Winged with Jun gates nodded gtr

What type of catch can are you running? A custom one with foam inside and a sump return with a pump for the huge amounts of oil

How have you got the catch can setup? -12 lines to the can and a breather

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This is the first time I've seen CP pistons and junk used in the same sentence.

Never heard of anyone having issues with them until now?

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This is the first time I've seen CP pistons and junk used in the same sentence.

Never heard of anyone having issues with them until now?

Sarcasm brah.

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OK guys I am going to revive this thread... i have had a google and i cant find the info i need...

I have built a few RB engines now and all have had CP pistons... All have heavy blow by and i have tried tightening the ring gaps head drains and different machine shops ect...

they all do not breathe and oil out on the street but as soon as i use them in a drift application... 1-2 min of flatout 4th gear limmiter ect they chuck out 1 to 2 litres of oil into the catch can... i dont want to know how to controll the blow by as i have tried it all... it is just too much

i want to know who has used what brand of piston for a drift application and what works... because CP is Junk and is never going in any of my motors again...

PS i dont want to know about your mates street driven 900hp rb26... its just not the same as a drift car...

had the same issue with a few track cars we built when i was at Advan. They sent oil into the catch can like a mofo

I think in the end Pete found some Jap rings that worked and did a better job but still didnt fix it.

I will only ever use Jap stuff. Trust (OS Giken) pistons, Trust rings with a set of Trust rods (Carillos) and 9 years later its still going strong. The engine barely breathes at all thankfully. All i ever get is dirty condensation in the can. I know its not a drifter, but for drag racing i havent had an issue with 25psi in it. Gonna have a bit more soon so time will tell

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I m thinking of buying Tomei piston kit 86.5mm with no recess. Can i just change that kit without changing stock crank shaft and con rods?

Or

Do i have to buy stroker kit which includes crank and con rods. 
thanks

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5 hours ago, Nyke said:

I m thinking of buying Tomei piston kit 86.5mm with no recess. Can i just change that kit without changing stock crank shaft and con rods?

Or

Do i have to buy stroker kit which includes crank and con rods. 
thanks

Link for the kit? You will need to bore and hone the cylinders 0.5mm if they haven't been done before as the stock pistons are 86mm.
While you have the whole thing apart, you might as well give it an acid bath, make it nice and clean and make sure you check the deck, machine if needed. Big list I could yap on about and it will start to add up fast. lol

A stroker kit will come with the lot so not sure how much help I'd be without more info (the machine shop work is unavoidable whichever scenario you head in).

First question would be, do you really need a rebuild? Low comp, damaged internals or just because? as RB's make plenty of power with a stock bottom end.

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