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Wounder how the rear door opens on that black one maybe he has cut the flares?

I'd say he's cut the flares, it's a low res photo so I can't really tell when zoomed in on it. He just might have welded the rear door shut for extra strength and has just left the rear door handle on to confuse people

Ricky, you should at least cut / weld the front guards up as it is very easy and quick to do (one day's work with the right tools) and the result looks very nice. In saying that if your chopping the rear flare up and putting it lower on the rear qtr the front would then be higher if the flare was put in the correct place, i suspect some agressive lowering of the front end would bring them into line though.

Have you looked at getting generic flares from a performance shop? that way you could keep the JDM style ones in original condition and hack up the generic ones.

post-44326-1229670382_thumb.jpgpost-44326-1229670187_thumb.jpg

Given up on the idea of trying to fibreglass. It's cut or nothing, so now I need to find a welder, which i should be able to do through work.

240k Convertible, How do these arches compare to yours?

post-44326-1229670382_thumb.jpgpost-44326-1229670187_thumb.jpg

Given up on the idea of trying to fibreglass. It's cut or nothing, so now I need to find a welder, which i should be able to do through work.

240k Convertible, How do these arches compare to yours?

They look very, very similar to the C110.

The first thing you'll need to do is mark the rear ones to make sure it will work. Get a non permanent pen and someone to hold the guard for you and mark away. You should be able to run a hand up the inside and a hand on the outside and feel roughly how far the inner and outer skins are from each other. Mine were about 2 - 2.5cm apart where i cut.

At the end of the day many C210's have had this mod so it is possible.

Cheers Andrew

More photos,

In arches 1 you can see the third piece of steel in the middle and also the widening gap between the skins on the left hand side of the photo. lightly stitch weld the middle skin and inner skin together before bending the outside skin over them. As you can see I have spot welded 2 flaps first before bending all the flaps over and massaging them with a hammer into the wheel well shape.

In arches 3 I have cut the inside skin away and also left the bottom section of the outside flaps, you don't need that much metal to wrap around into the well so it's best to cut the bottom of the flaps off.

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Ahh, good pics thanks Andrew, I'll save them to my pics. I now have a welder to do my job. It's my wifes cousin and it's costing me $250 which he's going to use to buy a gas mig, as he's been wanting one. Also looked at some 16x8 wantannabe look alikes, $330 each and Dunlop 235x 55 @ $225 each. May as well go big if I've got the room.

You'll be so happy once you have the rear flares on and some big rims to fill the space. The difference it makes to the look of the car up close is huge.

The price for the welding sounds reasonable. Let him know it will be stop start welding as you'll have to massage the flaps with a hammer as he goes along.

In one of the shots you can see how high the arch is from the rear tyre, leaving plenty of room to go lower. It has std 300zx king springs in it at the moment but they will be lowered in due course.

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