Jump to content
SAU Community

N/a+t Power Results - N/a +t Turbo Conversions Only


N-DAWG
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey mate

Im thinking of getting the hypergear turbo...wat u think of them? good for wat there worth?

Are you talking to me? if so, even though some of us have chats in this thread, pm me instead to keep this one tidier... but if your asking... they go well, but having a lil wastegate creep issues atm.... ie the boost is set to 15psi but leaks up to 17.x Psi, probably due to a larger amount of exhuast gases due to n/a high compression then standard gtst... looking at possibly going a bigger turbo in the future to stop this issue.

Unfortunetly I don't know what your car is... so can't say how it may go on it...

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey adam, the wastegate creep issue is because of the internal gate on that turbo. if you go ext gate, it will fix the issue, not sure if the internal gates can fit but if so, that shud fix the problem also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ext gate = easy to tell illegal... not that my setup isn't now... but I guess somewhat easier to hide with my custom heatsheild. Not to say I havent thought about it in the future.... ive been looking at int gate gt3076r's, but i've been in a skyline with an ext gate 300rwkw Trust Td06-20g and it is insane! and similar price... so both are an option :) cheers mate

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Model - R32 Gtst

Engine - RB25DE

Modifications / Parts Used - Garret 3071r, kkr external gate & screamer, tune agent ex. manifold, greddy copy plenium, 60mm throtle body, cometic 1.8mm headgasket, nismo 550cc injectors, fmic, sard fuel pressure reg... etc.

Engine Management Used - apexi power fc

Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98

Boost Used - 1 bar

Dyno Tune Results - 372.5HP

Misc- Other Details, on semi slick tyres (apparently this can effect the power reading)

Costs - Parts: roughly 5k

Dyno Graph -

posta230340cimg0082.th.jpg

Edited by RB_turbo_bitch
Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh sweet! Once again goes to show how strong the DE's are! I thought you were running stock pistons just with new bearings till I read this in the article: "That’s why the engine has been rebuilt from the ground up and strengthened with ACL main and big end race bearings."

So what compression is it running now with that gasket? I've had a couple of tuners advise against doing the gasket method as with still running the N/A pistons the only benefit is running more boost and losing the high compression response, but I guess this proves that wrong to an extent, and if you had the engine opened for the bearings then from a cost point of view it makes sense to do the gasket as well.

How is it as far as temps go? Particularly between street driving and track. I notice there's no mention of oil coolers and bigger radiator. Is it simply a case of just not really necessary even on a high powered N/A+t build?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh sweet! Once again goes to show how strong the DE's are! I thought you were running stock pistons just with new bearings till I read this in the article: "That’s why the engine has been rebuilt from the ground up and strengthened with ACL main and big end race bearings."

So what compression is it running now with that gasket? I've had a couple of tuners advise against doing the gasket method as with still running the N/A pistons the only benefit is running more boost and losing the high compression response, but I guess this proves that wrong to an extent, and if you had the engine opened for the bearings then from a cost point of view it makes sense to do the gasket as well.

How is it as far as temps go? Particularly between street driving and track. I notice there's no mention of oil coolers and bigger radiator. Is it simply a case of just not really necessary even on a high powered N/A+t build?

lol.. found the hpi huh. :laugh:

I have stock pistons, thats correct.

The stock RB25DE runs a 11:1 ratio, so with the thicker head gasket i think my DE+T is around 9.5:1.

With the radiator, my stock rb20 was rusted out and temps were getting as high as 100, so earlier this year (3 years on) i put a bigger alloy one in. On the street the temp sits at about 75, and on the track between 85 and 90. No oil cooler, just an oil change after every event to be on the safe side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im on my P's now with a rb25de with around 150,000 on the clock.

in about 8 months time i will be doing a turbo conversion.

is 200rwkw an easily achievable target and is there any major issues to look out for when doing this. some very nice cars and figures on here by the way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol.. found the hpi huh. :)

I have stock pistons, thats correct.

The stock RB25DE runs a 11:1 ratio, so with the thicker head gasket i think my DE+T is around 9.5:1.

With the radiator, my stock rb20 was rusted out and temps were getting as high as 100, so earlier this year (3 years on) i put a bigger alloy one in. On the street the temp sits at about 75, and on the track between 85 and 90. No oil cooler, just an oil change after every event to be on the safe side.

is this power at the flywheel,and the stock comp on the rb25de is 10:1 according to the manual

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Model - R34 25GT 5spd

Engine - RB25DE+T

Modifications - Turbonetics Stage 2 T3/T04 turbo (laggy mofo) w/ 38mm turbosmart ultragate, fmic, GTR bov, 3" catback + 2.5" dump/front/cat, nismo adj fuel reg, r33 GTR fuel pump, Exedy sports tuff HD cushion button clutch

coming soon: 550cc hiflow injectors, 3" custom dump & front pipes, 3" hi flow cat, turbotech bleed valve @ 14psi & retune

Engine Management Used - eManage Ultimate + ignition chip for neo RB's

Fuel Used - 98 Octane (Mobil 8000 to be exact but i use V power, vortex & mobil)

Boost Used - 9 PSI but boost won't hold after 5500pm, it keeps rising.

Dyno Tune Results - 184.2 rwkw

Misc- boosting the c*nt up to 14-15 so hopefully net myself a good figure and some monsterous torque. atm it boost spikes & keeps climbing after 5500rpm, it hit 201 at 12-13psi @6400rpm. have since changed the wastegate spring to a softer and smaller spring (7psi which feels like a$$ now) so hopefully it fixes the boost issue, going to install a turbotech bleed valve and set it to 14psi and in for another dyno run in 2 weeks.

p.s it does hectic skids :down:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Model - R34 25GT 5spd

Engine - RB25DE+T

Modifications - Turbonetics Stage 2 T3/T04 turbo (laggy mofo) w/ 38mm turbosmart ultragate, fmic, GTR bov, 3" catback + 2.5" dump/front/cat, nismo adj fuel reg, r33 GTR fuel pump, Exedy sports tuff HD cushion button clutch

coming soon: 550cc hiflow injectors, 3" custom dump & front pipes, 3" hi flow cat, turbotech bleed valve @ 14psi & retune

Engine Management Used - eManage Ultimate + ignition chip for neo RB's

Fuel Used - 98 Octane (Mobil 8000 to be exact but i use V power, vortex & mobil)

Boost Used - 9 PSI but boost won't hold after 5500pm, it keeps rising.

Dyno Tune Results - 184.2 rwkw

Misc- boosting the c*nt up to 14-15 so hopefully net myself a good figure and some monsterous torque. atm it boost spikes & keeps climbing after 5500rpm, it hit 201 at 12-13psi @6400rpm. have since changed the wastegate spring to a softer and smaller spring (7psi which feels like a$$ now) so hopefully it fixes the boost issue, going to install a turbotech bleed valve and set it to 14psi and in for another dyno run in 2 weeks.

p.s it does hectic skids :)

changed to a 7psi spring & fixed boost creeping problem.

used a manual bleeder to set it to 10psi, tihs bleed held 10psi dead FLAT with no spike and it pulled 180rwkw & 499nM of torque.

car is going back in next weekend for a EBC tune 10psi (low) 14psi (high)

profec B Spec 2.

hopefully get some decent torque & power out of this.

if its near maxing my injectors & afms then im gonna go for 550cc hiflow + emanage map sensor and piss off the stock afm.

ideally i want to run 14psi on high boost but ill let the tuner do it slowly from 11psi and see which is safest without any knocking etc.

also got a 3" dump/front & catco cat as well, also removed the silencers from my exhaust so it shouldn;t be as restrictive as before.

one problem tho, im running 18" work vskf now so it might weight it down ;)

post up results/dyno sheet next weekend.

RB TUrbo BITCH at what RPM does it hit full boost?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
model, gts25 engine,rb25de

mods,r33gtst turbo,xs power 3"exhaust,480cc injectors,power fc,modified plenum,fmic,25 row oil coolerfuel, shell v-power

boost,10.13 psidyno,378 bhp atf,6670rpm

costs,parts £3100,labour £0graph, sorry thats an old dyno sheet i'll get a more recent one

got a remap today,extra mods are 62 degree thermostat,meth/water injection and upped the boost to 12.3 psi

post-46611-1266258781_thumb.jpg

post-46611-1266258794_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i was just looking through this thread and saw the discussion about lammy426's power figures. you have to remember he is in england, and it's winter over there, so nice chilly air temps which will give much better power. if he was to bring it to australia and run it on a 30 degree day it would ping it's arse off and he would be making much less power. also lammy, you say "at the hubs" does that mean you are using a hub dyno? if so, they are known to give different results to wheel dynos

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...