Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy, I have a 1996 s1 RS four and it has been slipping fairly bad in 3rd and overdrive is nearly impossible for anything other than maintaining speed on flat ground. I don't really know anything about auto box's in general but I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and can help me with a solution.

Cheers

Jayson

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251493-stagea-automatic-box/
Share on other sites

Might be worth getting the gbox serviced, sometimes having new fluid and getting the bands tightened can help. But if its slipping really badly might be beyond help. 3rd and overdrive might share the same clutch pack and these may be burnt out causing them to slip. It can even be a shift solenoid not giving enough pressure to hold the gear.

It might even be low on fluid?

take it to a gbox specialist asap and get them to look at it, im pretty sure that they can scan these to to see if its anything electonic?

Howdy, I have a 1996 s1 RS four and it has been slipping fairly bad in 3rd and overdrive is nearly impossible for anything other than maintaining speed on flat ground. I don't really know anything about auto box's in general but I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and can help me with a solution.

Cheers

Jayson

Take it to an auto trans service place. They should diagnose and quote for free. In my area I can get another box for $400 so I wouldn't be spending $1500 on a rebuild.

Went and booked it in for a service today and hopefully find the problem while its in there. Could be worth buying another box if it is going to cost too much.

Where abouts are you finding gearboxes for $400 and would anywhere be able to ship it down for me?

Thanks

Jayson

Went and booked it in for a service today and hopefully find the problem while its in there. Could be worth buying another box if it is going to cost too much.

Where abouts are you finding gearboxes for $400 and would anywhere be able to ship it down for me?

Thanks

Jayson

That's in NZ. Freight could be prohibitive but if you really need one i could make some enquiries. Hopefully it will be a small repair or adjustment and you won't need one. Skyline one should fit too but don't know how you are fixed in your neck of the woods.

not long after reading this thread 3rd gear let go in my Stagea :D... It shifts fine from 1st to 2nd but when it try's to shift to 3rd just revs and i have to manually shift the auto back to 2 speed.. taking mine up to my mates house to throw it on his hoist, give the transmission a service, tighten the bands, if no difference looks like a rebuild for me.. :yes:

hey guys, this has happened to me to.. ended up being my clutch packs and needed a rebuild which cost $2000.. dont waste money on a service if its slipping really bad, it will return to slipping in a few more months.. i know from experience :D . also if u do get a rebuild look at geting a shift kit or shift improver( milder than a stage 1 shift kit)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Au...=shift+improver

link to shift kit thread. this is the first atempt at fixing my slipping. 1st and 3rd share the same clutchpack

Edited by jippa
  • 1 month later...

mine is being stupid today.

have had a slow leak for a while now (2months) been no problems with it.

but starting from last week, it i take a corner, no matter wat speek 15ks 30ks, it wants to drop back on gear and rev it out untill i set the wheel straight it will move up a gear.

and then today it reved out 1st gear and went into 2nd gear really rough (like quick shift, Thud) then went into third took a corner, id didnt drop down a gear around turn.

but i didnt drop down a gear at all, stayed in third, up hill in third, didnt really move, had to pull over put in park and back to drive, still wasnt moving out of third.

shut the car down check fluids looked a little low not major, turned car back on A/T light flashin for about a min. drove it home like a granny, but had no over drive at 80k's so i was doing 2,200rpm.

anyone know the part number for a service kit and a good place to take mine in Melbourne South east, and hopfully this week, need it for a long haul this weekend coming up ... thanks heaps

/\ /\ /\ /\ Don't know if this helps but the tiptronic will stick in third when it goes into its limp-mode (different to the ECU limp-mode). It can be something as basic as loss of power to the ignition circuit which causes this; I had a similar issue with my S2.

My auto 'box is running great currently, and has been for about the last 15,000K's or so. However during the time I've owned my S2 (almost a year), it has cost me about $1,100 in gearbox work. ~$650 of that was for a new solenoid rack. I pity you auto owners without a place like MV Automatics (which we have in Adelaide - hehe at least we have SOMETHING) to go to when you have a problem like this. I thought the 'box was a goner but Mike had the diagnostic gear, took the car for a drive and knew what was going on. If you can find a good specialist anything is possible...

  • Thanks 1

Been recommended to Knox Auto's.

rang them told the dude i have a nissan stagea auto.

he asked r33 or r34 auto ?

so he know's his cars. and a few dudes here in Vic had work done there. taking it there tomorrow :D get the seal fixed and a service kit installed and car should be all good,

and i dont like your 4 digit price tag dave

mine is being stupid today.

have had a slow leak for a while now (2months) been no problems with it.

but starting from last week, it i take a corner, no matter wat speek 15ks 30ks, it wants to drop back on gear and rev it out untill i set the wheel straight it will move up a gear.

and then today it reved out 1st gear and went into 2nd gear really rough (like quick shift, Thud) then went into third took a corner, id didnt drop down a gear around turn.

but i didnt drop down a gear at all, stayed in third, up hill in third, didnt really move, had to pull over put in park and back to drive, still wasnt moving out of third.

shut the car down check fluids looked a little low not major, turned car back on A/T light flashin for about a min. drove it home like a granny, but had no over drive at 80k's so i was doing 2,200rpm.

anyone know the part number for a service kit and a good place to take mine in Melbourne South east, and hopfully this week, need it for a long haul this weekend coming up ... thanks heaps

FWIW the old Jatco 3N71B was very sensitive to fluid level, only 500ml (to bring it up to mid/top on the dipstick) would be the difference between intermittent drive & 100% ok.

Even the fluid lost while changing over the cooler (not that much) would be enough to make the box misbehave without a top-up.

FWIW the old Jatco 3N71B was very sensitive to fluid level, only 500ml (to bring it up to mid/top on the dipstick) would be the difference between intermittent drive & 100% ok.

Even the fluid lost while changing over the cooler (not that much) would be enough to make the box misbehave without a top-up.

Interesting... is that the tiptronic?

Interesting... is that the tiptronic?

Ha!, the 3N71B is found in '70's Mazdas, Toyotas & Nissans. I think it made it's first appearance in 1970 & was used right up until the mid 80's before it was replaced by the 4N71B. Then came the RE401 series...

Tiptronic would be an interesting feature!

Ha!, the 3N71B is found in '70's Mazdas, Toyotas & Nissans. I think it made it's first appearance in 1970 & was used right up until the mid 80's before it was replaced by the 4N71B. Then came the RE401 series...

Tiptronic would be an interesting feature!

Ah ok. RE401, that's us...

  • 8 years later...

+ 1 for Knox Automatics.

Great knowledge, experience, honest customer service and a great bloke to chat too about anything cars.

I was there the other week, got my solenoids replaced + service / new filter/fluid the usual....

The Stag is sooo smooth and a pleasure to drive now :D.

Can hardly wait to wake up each morning and go driving.

Pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which are almost all nonsense. Ignore. Obviously enough, if it is not a porous block, then any such thing is a waste of time. External block surface? Would be a waste of time, if the block was actually porous. It would need to go on the inside, which is inaccessible, and even if the block was open deck so that that area was acessible, it would be unlikely to work. But seeing as this is all nonsense, stop worrying about it.   If the coolant is coming from the side of the block it is 10:1 odds that it is either a welch plug, or it is coming from the head gasket. Maybe from one of the coolant lines feeding the turbo, or even the heater. Liquids that leak from up high can travel sideways along casting surfaces or pipes, etc on the engine before finding a spot from which to drop.
    • Yeah rust is sadly also a bit of an issue on my car. Doubt there is many cars out there that actually have no rust in those aeas. The strut towers look fine but some of the surounding metal sheets show a bit of brown cancer peeking out from in between. I hope I can make do with external remedies and won't have to rip open the whole front end anytime soon. It looks somewhat minor compared to some shit I have seen online. I have worked on a few cars but I expect the RB26 to be my first 'engine out' job at some point.
    • Welcome Jan, It's very likely that you are in over your head. You'll just have to learn to swim hard and fast! These old rust buckets have more ways to bankrupt us than almost any other car. But hopefully there's nothing wrong that ruins the whole show! We can help a fair bit. There's plenty here who've been fixing these things for >25 years. cheers
    • Hi all. First off, thanks for reading my post. So end of last season I put the car away knowing I was leaking at least two fluids. One of them being rear turbo's oil. I went to my car recently that is waiting in a garage to take a peek with my boroscope to try and see if I can narrow down the souce of oil before taking it out of storage. What I found is not so great I think. The rear turbo is (probably) leaking from the oil drain. The hose and it's clamps are probably the original ones, so most likely just worn out or loose. However I spotted a line of rust going straight down from the turbo oil feed, as if water leaked out of there at some point. Also explains the red liquid that was dripping from my front subframe, which I initially thought was power steering. I can even see coolant drops hanging off the side of the oil pan as well. After a quick hit on the web I found a select few discussions about porous engine blocks. My question is if the pics of the turbo oil feed and the left hand side of the block (imgur link below) looks like it could be exactly that to you. Maybe someone in the community has seen it before and knows what it looks like. If it actually is a porously leaking block, has anyone attempted at fixing it with simple methods like putting a sealer in the cooling system and using something like jb weld on the block surface, or will it just leak in 2 weeks again? I could not find any detailed info or pictures on this topic. If I need a new engine, tell me softly. https://imgur.com/a/knVvmZ8
    • Hey all. I'm 23 and from Germany, September last year I bought a mildly modded 1995 GTR Vspec. Looks great and was fun so far, but I already have a list of issues of various severity that I need to take care of, potentially growing longer the closer I look. I just hope I'm not in over my head, I really want to keep the car and work towards it becoming great. I hope y'all will help me out in getting there, I am positive I will need help sooner rather than later to figure out how to proceed. greetings, some pics of the car I posted to imgur. https://imgur.com/a/StKkabz
×
×
  • Create New...