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Krys

Best N/A performance mods?

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its not easy to find an aftermarket ecu for n/a's as i have found.

gts link seems a common one.

unless you opt for an e-mange or a microtech.

a pfc wasnt worth making i suppose

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i have been told by my dyno guy that "he shouldnt see why at gtt power fc wont fit a gt" for 34's that is not sure about 33's and 32's tho. cause i do know that they are different to the 34's

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i have been told by my dyno guy that "he shouldnt see why at gtt power fc wont fit a gt" for 34's that is not sure about 33's and 32's tho. cause i do know that they are different to the 34's

Absoultely correct... all the turbo fc's will work with the NA's... Its a shame they never made one for the 35....

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resurrecting a old thread from the dead........Il be on my full licence in less tan 12 months and am currently in the process of deciding weather to buy a turbo r33 and put a n/a rb25de in it for the time being then swapping it back over when off my P's (which people on ere have advised me against doing), or buying a n/a r33 and either doing a engine conversion rb25det neo or turboing the stock engine when im off my P's. most likely I will just buy the n/a r33 to save the hassles of police and work with that.

my question is if I go this path n/a rb25de id wanna do some mods to it while it was n/a and was wondering if the following is possible

1) putting on a tomei z32 or r33 gtst afm, xf falcon or enlarged throttle body, s/s intake piping custom bent (I have my own pipe bender), apexi or similar pod filter w/ custom heatshield, fully enclosed pop box( heatshield may not be required if do this) and custom CAI. I know that it will all fit on the rb25de but what are the real benefits/gains doing this? is it noticeably different?

2) putting in a r33 turbo radiator (if any different to n/a) or larger 3 core radiator either way use silicone radiator hoses, twin ef-el falcon electronic thermo fans (sensor installed in radiator) or similar twin thermo fan setup. will this all fit fine in a n/a r33?

3) after market oil cooler kit (the car will be auto unfortunately due to shattering left knee and having it reconstructed a few years back, cant operate clutch properly). what is a good brand I don't want a cheap supercheap auto or autobarn one lmfao?

4) nismo fuel regulator, nismo fuel pump, nismo injectors (what cc injectors would be best in a daily driver). would this be to much in a n/a ie wasted fuel? how much would my fuel consumption suffer?

5) low temp thermostat most likely nismo. would this be a pointless addition to keeping the car cold being a n/a motor?

im sure through research and more thought I can think of more and if I do il post them to get others opinions but these are basic mods im looking into to help with keeping the car cool.

other things I will be doing to the car listed below:

1) turbo or similar brakes. will I just need to change calipers,rotors, pads and hoses or should I change master/slave cylinders and booster aswell? also will I need to change brake fluid from dot 3 to dot 4?

2) tein street flex coilovers 7kg front-5kg rear. is this a suitable setting I live on a dirt road that's almost like a 4wd track (full of potholes) or do I need softer or harder set-up? what suspension ratio would you run on a daily and living on a 3km long dirt road?

3) extractors and 2 1/2 inch exhaust system custom built by exhaust fix in Croydon vic (anyone needing a exhaust I recommend exhaust fix the bloke who owns it ron black used to do exhausts for the toranas that ran Bathurst so he has race and performance experience I was recommended to him by a friends dad who used to build the engines for Bathurst aand worked closely with him in that time and I would have any exhaust done by him hands down theres no argument to experience).

that's it for now apart from bodykit and custom paintjob oh and rims. cheers for any replies in advance I look forward to reading other peples opinions on this.

EDIT: forgot to add the greddy emanage. now that's all haha

Edited by scithe93

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Wait until you are off your P's and buy a factory turbo car.

Don't bother wasting money on "performance" mods you listed, most of them are useless. Standard cooling setup with clutch fan will be fine, only upgrade to thicker radiator if you can rule out everything else.

Suspension = leave standard if you're travelling on tough roads. Bilstein + springs would be the go if you want to upgrade.

Brakes = full flush, replace fluid with high temp Super DOT4, good pads and rotors.

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cant not buy a car though, and cant drive a n/a skyline without some work on it haha. what would be the best suspension rating for a dodgy rd if I use blistien?

so since I have to drive a n/a car for the next 10-11 months and ive made up my mind on getting a r33 skyline il just convert it to a rb25det neo when off my P's or turbo the stock motor so if I do those mods listed now I wont have to do them later down the line

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The mods you listed apart from exhaust will do nothing. When I got my timing adjusted on a dyno for the very first time when the car was NA it gained 10kw... Thats more then 1-5 in your list put together.

What you have listed are supporting mods - mods that allow the performance modifications - IE turbo - to do their job by keeping up with the amount of air going into the car by spraying more fuel or being able to measure a larger amount of air going into the intake, cooling a system that can generate more heat ... etc.

1 - Dont worry about AFM - it's an Air Flow Meter - it only measures how much air is going into the motor to then map against the correct amount of fuel. It's just a meter, as long as you aren't exceeding how far it can read (it reads in volts btw) there is no point. You wont Max it as you're not going to make positive pressure. When you add a turbo and turn boost up and pass around 200kw from memory(been a long while - could be a little more/less), that's when you need a z32/upgrade etc. Enlarged throttle body.. same deal... you would need a lot of pressure to warrant it. At least more then 300/350kw's worth.. don't worry about it.

The only thing to say on this is a good panel filter with the factory snorkel is the best setup. I have a full custom heat shield enclosure and CAI and can say with a turbo the only difference I notice is response on freeway with cool air, just feels a little more responsive, not extra power at all, NA, you wouldn't notice this as the turbo loves to suck cold air.

2 - Only put a new radiator if required. Do you know if it is overheating? Possibly worth getting a gauge to measure (I have powerfc so could see the temps - factory clutch fan with a brand new factory radiator and in this weather I can't get it past 72deg, in hot summer days wont go above 80 - sits around 78-80 depending on traffic movement). Turbo's suffer from hot engines, NA do, but not to the extent a turbo does. It will not give you a single HP, its a support mod

3 - When you say oil cooler then refer to car being auto I'm assuming you mean transmission cooler? The cars you will be looking at will be mostly factory with exhausts? Are you going to track it a lot? Haven't owned an auto so wont say yes or no but wouldn't imagine it would be needed for a street car, or a street car with no/minimal mods.

4- Will do nothing, there is no point to more fuel if there is no extra air, all controlled by the ecu and doesn't matter if you put 1000cc on or factory, whatever is on the ECU's maps is what it will spray. You could force more in and then you'd just run rich (big black smoke out the back on WOT) and still not make any more power, you're missing two other parts of the equation - one is air, the other is something to tell the motor there is more fuel and air going into the engine - done by the ECU.

5- Also pointless - If you lived in Northern Territory, perhaps but a good clean flowing cooling system is way more effective

Brakes - Not needed unless you definitely know you are going to turbo this car, otherwise waste of money, I left the N/A brake master, all fine. I knew I needed to upgrade the brakes when I was at about 200kw and the power the car was making didn't match the stopping power - I could get up to speed quick but couldn't stop quick.

Suspension - As Nizmo_Man has said

Extractors/exhaust - You will spend money on extractors and then sell them or keep them in the shed if you go turbo so just something to think about.

That saves you 1-2 grand with 0 HP increases to go spend on something else. I know all this because I did all this - like you, on my P's etc... Listen to people on the forums here, they are d*cks to some because every year we see a new batch of soon to be P platers ask the same questions and what if and how about... etc... I copped it too a long time ago - but the underlying thing is they are right.

I drove a nearly 300kw Skyline on my p's... I took the risk, I lucked out, many aren't lucky. I was pulled over and defected a few times, but not for a turbo miraculously.

Adam

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Found some cheap manifolds on ebay . Is it possible to fit a turbo manifold and blank it of to possibly add the turbo later ? or what is the best solution to get my NA 33 breathing ? and would an rb30 be same pattern ?....any help apreciated.  cheers

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6 minutes ago, Newbie Scoobie Doobie said:

Found some cheap manifolds on ebay . Is it possible to fit a turbo manifold and blank it of to possibly add the turbo later ? or what is the best solution to get my NA 33 breathing ? and would an rb30 be same pattern ?....any help apreciated.  cheers

rb30 are different. If you can find some m96 engine headers i believe they fit.

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A manifold for a turbo car has just one outlet - into the turbocharger. Blank that off and there's nowhere for the gases to go. Gases have to go through the turbocharger and then out of that through the elbow to the downpipe. An NA manifold outlet goes straight to the downpipe. There is (or at least there was) a supplier in NZ (partsco) doing a coby d12 header for NA skylines.

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Your R33 n/a probably breathes as much as it can handle. Without spending mega bucks you are not going to get much more out of it. If you can get or have made a set of extractors (headers) that will give you a little more speed and sound like a lot more...

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Best mod for N/A R32~34 is a nitrous setup... however you'll need something to retard the timing when you squirt in the nitrous, simple setup could be a Nistune with the latest feature pack and trick the ECU to spray more fuel & pull timing out (hooked up through the flex fuel 0-5V input) each time you feed the nitrous.

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I thought I would add a little motivation to this thread since some people say that most N/A mods are useless. In a heavier car like a Skyline a set of extractors may not be that noticeable but in a 2000 lb car with a rb25de it's very noticeable regardless of how much power your actually making from it. After doing my extractors I noticed the tq curve shift much higher in the rev range, more top end power, and the sound of course. With n/a you can't expect big changes from any one mod, you have to be willing to spend the money to get all the supporting mods and still have no where near the power a turbo will make. I've owned turbo cars and their amazing but I've always had a soft spot for a responsive quick n/a car. I've got an rb25de neo out of a 98 R34, I've done custom warm air intake, extractors, 3" crush bent exhaust, light flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, no PS or AC. My next step will be camshafts to take advantage of the mods I've done so far.

Here's a video of the car without extractors and a 3.9 ratio rear end, video above the rear end is a 4.4

 

Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~
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