Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just bought a r33 not long ago, the past week Id noticed acceleration was a little jittery - not as smooth as it first was, and yesterday it seemed like all power that normally comes when the turbo boosts is missing.

The best way to describe the sound its making is as if the airbox is sucking alot of air (its quite loud, not as loud as it normally was). The boost guage built into the dash under the RPM tacho still moves when accelerating etc.

Any ideas what this could be? Everything is stock as far as im aware, stock turbo, stock boost the only thing that is changed is a k&n panel filter in the stock airbox.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254094-no-power-from-turbo/
Share on other sites

i had some issues with my r33 gts-t when i brought it....it was lagging power when on boost

took it to a trusty mechanic and he told me my catalyic converter was glogged up with shit....so he knocked it out

after that man good as gold...had a tune and some more boost.... and the result was 190.1kw @ 9psi and the wheels :) stock as a rock besides spitfire coilpacks

is the turbo hard to get to to check for broken fins ?

Depends how experienced you are with playing round in the engine bay. Take the cooler pipes and intake pipes off to check the intake side of the turbo and take the dump pipe off to check out the exhaust side of it. Chances are if your not sure how to get to it then it will take a while.

The best way to describe the sound its making is as if the airbox is sucking alot of air (its quite loud, not as loud as it normally was).

So air intake is louder or more quiet than normal?

So air intake is louder or more quiet than normal?

Air intake is alot louder than before

edit: just re-read my OP, yeh that didnt make sense, i was meant to write it was alot louder not that it was not as loud, heh

Edited by errno

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
    • I _think_ that one has a christmas tree or some other retainer spike into a hole in that panel under it. Come in under it with thin scredrivers and just pry it gently up. If you rip the ears off the retainer pin....so what? Just stick it back down after with a bit of race tape and carry on with life.
×
×
  • Create New...