Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Tell Me Your Girth


GTR1993
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey, this is for everyone using ATI balancers on rb series motors, specifically rb26

I have one going on my gtr, they say you want approx 0.02 mm interference fit (even a bit bigger is ok)

I measured up my std crank, 30.00, checked on another crank i have 30.00 as well, miced up the ati balancer and its 30.00 as well!, they say they are undersized and need to be honed, i have no material to hone, ita already too big!

Now, do i have a dud balancer, or is this the reason RB26 calls for over double the torque on the balancer bolt?

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nah that cant be right, i pulled the balancer on with just the crank bolt, and only the engine compression holding the crank in position. If i wanted a 0.02mm interference fit, my balancer would need to be 29.98 mm and crank being 30.00

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nah that cant be right, i pulled the balancer on with just the crank bolt, and only the engine compression holding the crank in position. If i wanted a 0.02mm interference fit, my balancer would need to be 29.98 mm and crank being 30.00

are you sure its an interference fit...i was sure it was a clearance on balancer (i.e.0.02mm clearance)...i can remove mine with a few taps with a rubber mallet. It and the woodruff key were in perfect order when it was removed on the last pulldown so it didn't move at all when locked on with the bolt. They are not supposed to be pressed on like a bearing onto a shaft i.e. interference. The way you have described it being fitted sounds like a perfect fit...remember to moly lube both sides of the washer and bolt thread...no loctite!

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will check, ill be back, i think this is the reason for 460 Nm on a RB26 bolt.

just checked my documentation and you are correct...interference fit.

without this fit it also states that it "will not correctly transfer crankshaft vibration into the hub"

gee thats a worry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what do you think the answer is? I mean yours is ok still lol.

I measured up the std balancer, and its 30.00 to 30.01, so loose fit too.

Im thinking its using 460 Nm to apply pressure thought he face to the gear that drives the cam belt then to the crank, because it doesn't matter what friction surface it uses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what do you think the answer is? I mean yours is ok still lol.

I measured up the std balancer, and its 30.00 to 30.01, so loose fit too.

Im thinking its using 460 Nm to apply pressure thought he face to the gear that drives the cam belt then to the crank, because it doesn't matter what friction surface it uses.

i use 150ft/lb (200Nm) and 1/2 a turn with a length of pipe over my biggest breaker bar to apply 'correct' torque.

haven't had one come loose yet.

touching wood as i type

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, does it slide over the crank? if it only get like a few mil on then stops its ok.

tension is 400nm~ odd. big bar and you can feel the bolt start to stretch its the right tension..(use grease on the bolt head/washer)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, does it slide over the crank? if it only get like a few mil on then stops its ok.

tension is 400nm~ odd. big bar and you can feel the bolt start to stretch its the right tension..(use grease on the bolt head/washer)

mines seems to come on and off a little easier than im comfortable with...it doesnt push all the way on by hand and is pulled up with the bolt. But as i said before i can remove it with a rubber mallett without too much effort and the balancer, key and crankshaft snout are in pristine order.

I hope it because i use a smear of 'silverslip' on the shaft and its a brand new crankshaft and balancer.

ARP moly lube is the stuff for the crankshaft bolt and washer.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It doesn't slide on by hand, it does stop, but it pulls on real easy with the crank bolt pulling it on. But its not the interference fit that its meant to be. Not sure if to just leave it and do bolt up to proper torque, i mean what else can i do, unless this balancer is wrong ID from factory.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds fine to me :D aslong as its not loose. (if it is to tight it will gall up and f**k the crank and the balancer)

and yes. molly lube is good for the bolt and the crank snout. ;) dont use locktite on the thread!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Your stuff look much better than the original stuff I used on my tri-y headers, which didn't survive the swap, that did work OK though, but currently the headers are only ceramic coating, which, while it is meant to be the bees knees, it really only reduces temps by "not alot" and is more for protecting the mild steel pipes The new stuff is meant to maintain an "air gap" which "apparently" helps the insulation LOL In other news I'm taking it into Autotech next week for them to have a look at the RaceTCS, the spot where I want it, and the program "thingie" that is on my lap top computa which you would know as it is basically the same thing as your Racelogic  I'm really keen to get this fitted  
    • OK, a couple of questions arise. Are you suggesting that you want to swap to the S2 ECU so that you can Nistune it? Because....none of the R33 ECUs can be Nistuned. What would an ATESSA controller do to help? You have no ATESSA. Beyond that, the S1 and S2 ECU pinouts are nearly identical, as far as I can remember. A quick look around on SAU yields the following for S1. As I said, almost all of it is identical. I think there might be a few changes around the AFM and the ECCS relay, not much else. There's not functionally anything particularly different between a manual and auto ECU pinout. Can run a manual engine on an auto ECU quite trivially, for example.
    • Hey guys Was recently replacing the water pump and timing belt. Came across one of the washers for the timing gear and balancer were bent. Just wondering how that would of happened
    • Recently destroyed the front driver ABS wheel speed sensor on my ENR34 due to the iron knuckle rusting and seizing the sensor head. The other one on the passenger side has been soaking in penetrant for a few days, but I fully expect the same thing to occur. The wheel speed sensors seem to be specific to the AWD applications, and likewise the more readily available units from ER34s and S/Z chassis are not the same. An OEM unit seems to be available at $200 USD/ea, which is not ideal, but still fine. But if I'm in this boat in the future, those might not be available.   Does anyone know of any wheel speed sensor that uses the same head as the R34 GTR that could be used? Not overly concerned with cable lengths as wiring will be redone to accommodate PMU wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...