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tell your friends :banana:

Item:

White 1993 Nissan Skyline,

1998 RB25det Neo motor, out of an auto Stagea, has great compression and oil pressure

GTR bonnet ,

dmax front bar

GTR grill,

Trust side skirts and rear pods,

Four wheel steering disabled.

T04E turbo upgraded

just spent over $1000 on new manifold guaranteed to never crack,

HKS Style external wastegate with 8psi spring with screamer

HKS intercooler 3inch end tanks (silicone joiners),

custom intercooler piping,

Blitz BOV (plumbed back into intake),

550hp walbro intank fuel pump,

new tensioners and pulleys

MS air filter,

NISTUNE ECU, tuned by EFI Performance

DBA slotted front discs,

DBA standard rear discs,

Bendix ultimate front pads and rear pads,

Aftermarket camber arms,

Aftermarket castor rods,

Aftermarket steering wheel,

Boost gauge,

front and rear sway bar.

EL dial dash lights, Sunroof.

custom NPC clutch rated at 600hp

ohlins rear coilovers

apexi front coilovers

3 spoke rays racing wheels massive dish white centers,

25mm wider fibreglass front guards

Location:

Gold Coast/Bris

Item Condition:

awesome

Reason for Selling:

i want an s14a will swap for one of these only

she is a great car and will be missed

Price and Payment Conditions:

im after $15,000 ono for her or an s14.. she has had alot of work done from when i first got her and cleaned up alot

Extra Info:

i dont want to sell her just yet.. as i am booking her in for a tune in the next week or so... will want to sell after tune! she will definitely make over 300hp

Pictures:

3271965130_0d230149877777.jpg

will get a better pic of the engine bay

the car really stands out =]

DSCF5361__Medium_.jpg

Contact Details:

PM ME or in this thread =]

any questions just ask

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260340-eoi-1993-rb25neo-r32-gtst/
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    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
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