Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It looks either wastegate is unsealed or VCT is not activated.

Ask Sean to change the VCT settings through the ECU and see it response to power curve. 2ndly the actuator has to be removed for turbo installation and in many cases the pre-load was let by the operating mechanic (many believed they shouldn't be tensioned) or not been corrected adjusted after installation.

Drop the cat, have a play with the EBC, that dip and claiming back up shape looks strange. To get around the 280rwkws mark it needs to hold around 20psi up top.

Further more, pretty much all results came out of the test car are on aftermarket manifolds. I will see Trent next week to trail a larger turbine housing for the SS2, which should compensate a little working with stock exhaust manifold.

It looks either wastegate is unsealed or VCT is not activated.

Ask Sean to change the VCT settings through the ECU and see it response to power curve. 2ndly the actuator has to be removed for turbo installation and in many cases the pre-load was let by the operating mechanic (many believed they shouldn't be tensioned) or not been corrected adjusted after installation.

I installed turbo to engine, then engine into car. Actuator hasn't been adjusted. But i will check it Saturday morning And test Vct just to be sure.

Might be able to log boost against Rpm then drop Cat and compare and see if it gains much response

Edited by t_revz

Thats honestly a pretty good graph man.. I can imagine you would want boost in as early as possible, and to hit the mark for power, but that is all in by 4k already.

It definitely has the marks of a fast car, and I do believe the turbo is performing based on the shape of the curve. For a turbo thats capable of more power, to me it looks like its not running enough boost, or theres a flow restriction of some sort (other than the turbo). As its only a minor hold back on boost and your missing 10-20% power.

Theres definitely more in it once you work out whats holding it back.

Hi all

I bought on of hypergears highflows around 6 months ago with the intention to put it on my track car, but as life likes to play its little games, the track car was stripped and sold.

But I kept a few select bits to make myself a budget, reliable and responsive daily driven drifter

A r33 4 door, so sticking to the budget I fitted a front mount cooler, a intank fuel pump, the highflow I had (r33 21U rear, 14psi actuator) and a microtech lt16 I had.

Then took it in for a tune, stock injectors(remember budget build) and all

P9200055_zps10e337e0.jpg

So on a safe tune, to handle me thrashing it at the track :P

The injectors had a little left in them at 300hp but 282rwhp (208kw) was the final tune

For the very minimal cash outlay, I'm very very happy with the result

Interesting that they didn't use any correction method, I've never had a run on Allstar's dyno without SAE being used.

Make much difference?

I see mine says 2000+4000 while simonr32's says 2000+3000. Googled last night but didn't find an answer. I know nothing about correction methods so have some studying to do

Thats honestly a pretty good graph man.. I can imagine you would want boost in as early as possible, and to hit the mark for power, but that is all in by 4k already.

It definitely has the marks of a fast car, and I do believe the turbo is performing based on the shape of the curve. For a turbo thats capable of more power, to me it looks like its not running enough boost, or theres a flow restriction of some sort (other than the turbo). As its only a minor hold back on boost and your missing 10-20% power.

Theres definitely more in it once you work out whats holding it back.

Yeah I'm not too concerned. But would like to get the most out of it after spendibg so much time and money on it. Regardless I want to change exhaust from behind the dump, check all obvious things then wind more into it. I'm confident with more boost the power curve should be close to everyone else.

But yeah it feels fast as for me after only driving a ford ranger and grand vitara for the last 3 yrs ;)

Hi all

I bought on of hypergears highflows around 6 months ago with the intention to put it on my track car, but as life likes to play its little games, the track car was stripped and sold.

But I kept a few select bits to make myself a budget, reliable and responsive daily driven drifter

A r33 4 door, so sticking to the budget I fitted a front mount cooler, a intank fuel pump, the highflow I had (r33 21U rear, 14psi actuator) and a microtech lt16 I had.

Then took it in for a tune, stock injectors(remember budget build) and all

So on a safe tune, to handle me thrashing it at the track :P

The injectors had a little left in them at 300hp but 282rwhp (208kw) was the final tune

For the very minimal cash outlay, I'm very very happy with the result

Great result for a very budget build! That turbo would be good for 18psi at least, so I can see it would really come alive with some injectors and more boost.

Good work, I would be happy with the result of a nice reliable ultimately budget build like that.

Great result for a very budget build! That turbo would be good for 18psi at least, so I can see it would really come alive with some injectors and more boost.

Good work, I would be happy with the result of a nice reliable ultimately budget build like that.

Thanks mate, I did consider going the injector path but for the extra outlay I might just stick with this setup, it seems to drive so well and still has the balls to fry tyres rolling onto boost in lower gears.

Either way I am in QR matsuri in 2 weeks so will see how good it goes :)

Thanks mate, I did consider going the injector path but for the extra outlay I might just stick with this setup, it seems to drive so well and still has the balls to fry tyres rolling onto boost in lower gears.

Either way I am in QR matsuri in 2 weeks so will see how good it goes :)

a cheap option for injectors are S15 450cc injectors, they flow decent amount and can be had for next to nothing on silvia forums :woot:

just read you have a GT-t, fail on my side lol

Edited by johnnilicte

a cheap option for injectors are S15 450cc injectors, they flow decent amount and can be had for next to nothing on silvia forums :woot:

just read you have a GT-t, fail on my side lol

Not a fail on your side, fail by me, I should update that, I've had 4 different cars since the r34 4 door

This is a series 1 r33 4 door :D

haha well there you go!

S15 450s will get you up to 230kw man, easily.

even more, I was making 246 kW on my old shitbox with the duty cycle at around 70ish %

I dont want to set the bar too high, it is a HF and is running a microguess. The microguess is the biggest holdup, to keep the tune safe I say discount about 20 from what it can do as a maximum.

Make much difference?

I see mine says 2000+4000 while simonr32's says 2000+3000. Googled last night but didn't find an answer. I know nothing about correction methods so have some studying to do

I wouldn't have a clue myself, but from memory Simon said it adds 7% to the total power. As does their dyno apparently. So together my power figure is apparently 14% out. I think that's what it worked out to, the question was whether my 393rwhp figure on Allstar's dyno was accurate compared to my 318rwhp on Autoworx Dyno Dynamics a day later.

haha well there you go!

S15 450s will get you up to 230kw man, easily.

Still a lot of effort for and extra 20 odd kw lol, but I will keep my eye out for some cheapies as I'm always on nissansilvia.com

But I have my basic engine setup I wanted :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...