Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is this the R33 AFM? (Circled red)

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn37/no...ous_azn/AFM.jpg

If so, how do I open it and clean it? I have CRC MAF.

That is the Airflow meter, not sure what you mean a CRC AFM, but this one looks standard.

In my opinion you can not open the AFM box itself, so do not try... There are some people that can repair if there is a problem but it is filled with hard resin and needs to be looked at by a professional.

I believe it can be re-built but not by you if you don't know how.

They either work or they don't, sometimes they will cause a rough idle and hesitation but they will normally either stop the car or not.

As for cleaning the AFM, only do this when the engine is cold, (at least an hour after turning off) with the Ignition Key off.

Pull the airbox cover off like you have.

Remove the following;

2 bolts holding the lower half of box at front of car

1 bolt on the aft outside

1 on the aft inside.

Hose Clamp that holds Hose to the AFM

Squeeze Tab on Electrical Plug, Push in and then pull terminal up to disconnect AFM from Car Loom.

Then lift the box gently off it's mounts and remove it from Car.

Turn box over and spray Electrical Contact Cleaner down the AFM (probe hanging in the inlet tube) and into the gauze that opens into the Airbox. Use the spray in the reverse direction of Airflow and do not touch the Probe, just use the spray and make sure you get a non residue drying type of cleaner.

Spray both sides of Electrical connection, the 3 pins need to look really clean.

Let it dry for a minute, then re-assemble in reverse... making sure you hear a click on the Electrical re-connection.

Should run a bit smoother now, especially if you have an oiled Air Filter element installed in Airbox.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263869-r33-afm/#findComment-4515487
Share on other sites

yep thats the air flow meter alright........................

have a look.......

not being able to see your car........

i feel that there is more to it than just an air flow meter......

alot of people having the same symptoms as yours, end up cleaning with AFM withought any improvement....

but it doesnt hurt to try

let us know how you go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263869-r33-afm/#findComment-4516640
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And make sure the belts are tightened appropriately too.
    • They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...