Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Long story short, I replaced the motor (rb25det in an r33) with another stock standard one.

Now the new motor had a different coil setup which didnt match the existing loom, so I put the old coils on and it all seems to be plugged in as before.

When cranking i get no spark in the plugs.

There is only one plug which I am mistified about, and that is one coming from the power box on the drivers side of the car. It has 2 prongs in it. I cant for the life of me find the matching plug, and I cant remember if it was previously plugged in.

Spark was perfect before motor change.

Can anyone let me know any suggestions on where to look? Or what tests(with a multimeter) can I do to narrow it down?

Thanks Heaps!! Once its runnin, im driving it off a cliff for a bit of revenge.

What year is your car and what year motor went into it?

series one have an external ignitor (grey box on top of the valley cover), series two have an internal ignitor on the actual coil.

Cheers,

Johno

What year is your car and what year motor went into it?

series one have an external ignitor (grey box on top of the valley cover), series two have an internal ignitor on the actual coil.

Cheers,

Johno

Hi mate thanks alot for the reply. Its a S2 motor going into a S1 r33, but I used all the S1 accessories/loom.. etc.

Anyways, i got it running it turned out i didnt have the CAS clipped in fully... BUT...

Start it, runs for about 30 seconds, starts sounding chattery, black smoke out the exhaust, revs fluctuating.......

Turn it off, pull the dipstick and its coffee white in colour, with water leaking out of the exhaust.. I cant win my last motor blew whilst my mother was driving it at about 60km/h, and now ive spent 2 days installing this one to find out it has a blown head gasket/cracked block... who knows im over it.

So now Im out of options.

How much is it for a shop to fix a head gasket? shave the head and all that??

Headgasket, or cracked block or cracked head.

For what its worth maybe find another motor.

Yeah. Well to his credit the seller has been very co-operative and decided to give a full refund (Within half an hour of emailing him). Just means I have to take it back out again but given the situation i am a little more relieved.

I have a rebuilt bottom end which i was practically given but i didnt really want to go the rebuild stage with the gaskets and all that as I just want a reliable car again... But since I have probably halved the time of removing and replacing an rb25det motor due to experience, I may give it a go :D :D

The old head that was on the blown motor I still have, so I may get that crack tested and skimmed or whatever it needs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
×
×
  • Create New...