Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel Rubs On Rotor

pipster11
 Share

Recommended Posts

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

hey guys

been meaning to post this up for a while

i have an r32 gtst spec m

it has the 4 pot brakes and 18 inch wheels

had it up on hoist to change the rotor and found out it had spacers all round (only about a 2 mm spacer)

so we took them out and found that the front right wheel rubs on the caliper with the spacer removed (and a pretty tight clearence with the spacer in place)

what could cause this to only happen on one side? and what should i be checking?

also is it ok to run just one spacer one one corner or should i be running one on both fronts?

all help appreciated

Cheers, Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
  • Author
Posted

late reply lol

didn't try changing the wheels over (should have duh!!!)

but it was rubbing on part of the calliper that its closest to the hub

post-51118-1242436869_thumb.jpg

here

we even tried filing it down a bit but nothing :D

but a ~2-3 mm spacer and it was fine

the wheel would rotate but you could hear it rubbing but only in a few spots as it was turned

could the calliper bracket be bent?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
Posted

Those 2 calipers look different. Is one a 32 and the other 33?

If the caliper bracket was bent you'd have bigger issues with wheels wobbling and probably wouldn't even turn.

Check offsets of wheels

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thats just a pic from google

both wheels fill the guards propperly but i guess it could be a machining error

the far side is pretty dam close to the calliper too

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah, may do when i get time

doesn't bother me too much

got play in the steering now

not noticeable in carparks but very there on the highway

wound the suspension up and changed the rack boots (unwound the tierod ends)

could it just need more grease? or is there a chance i f**ked the rack when it came off somehow?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
Posted

Try swapping the wheels from left side to right side. See if that helps.

If you're not willing to give it a go then there isn't much else we can help with.

I'm nearly 100% sure that your offsets are not the same left to right.

Not sure about the steering play.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i'll swap them over after i get back from qld :P

moving my tools down to tas so will have some more tools to play with and a proper jack

i'll let you know how i go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Bills 33 Gtst Streeter/track Car

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Can't forget them. Have spent the better part of the last 2 years in Bunbury. Any longer and I would have to get one of each.
    • admS15
      Bills 33 Gtst Streeter/track Car

      By admS15 · Posted

      Hit it hard last night, was in the shed till 2:30am. Had to get everything ready to try fit engine today as neighbour is going away tomorrow. This happenned today      Was going smoothly, till it wasn't. Had to lower the sway bar, remove engine mounts to get the engine to its spot and then refit everything. Head drain also created some clearance issues but got there in the end. Some idiot put the drain return on the sump virtually where the engine mount is. Hose fits on but is less than ideal, going to have to revisit it and fit a 90° fitting. Had some hiccups last night too with getting the flywheel and gearbox on. Firstly forgot the sandwich plate, so had to remove clutch and flywheel again. Then gearbox went on smoothly but then realised new block has an alignment dowel in the same spot as gearbox. GB off again to remove said dowel. Cnut. Anyway, it's in now. AC and PS pumps refitted, tail shaft bolted up as well. Left to do is reconnect all harnesses and plugs. Looks like a big mess ATM. Fit dump pipe, radiator, shifter, intake piping and associated bits, air box fill, afluids and hopefully fire it up. Looks like couriers please has lost my break in oil again. Useless pricks. Looks like I'll just get whatever mineral oil is on special at super shit auto. Hopefully it will actually run after all this or I'm going to burn it, lol.
    • tehmessiah
      V35 Replacement Coil packs

      By tehmessiah · Posted

      The genuine ones are a minimum of $95 each on amayama. Jesse Streeter just quoted me $190 each. I can get a set of 6 MSD for $470 on ebay.
    • Komdotkom
      Bills 33 Gtst Streeter/track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      You forgot jet ski's and neck tatts.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      New Monroe OESpectrum shocks for the Honda have been ordered, the car actually handles well with the OEM shocks, but from pulling the wheels off for a good inspection of the brakes and bushings, the only issue I saw was that it still has the original shocks, and with 160k km on them they are well past their use by date Also, in other "kids these days" news, the airbox resonator is "in the bin", a little more induction noise down low free reving, but it sounds really good (growly) over 4k RPM on the road, worth while silly mod for 10 minutes of work and zero dollars Also the K&N filter for the OEM airbox arrived, whilst I didn't get it for performance, as it probably doesn't give any, it's more to save a few bucks replacing OEM filters every service, 3 filter changes and it has paid for itself I also picked up another 5 litres of HPR5 for another oil filter and some more engine flush, I'll give the last HPR5 and filter change 1k km to do it's thing then flush it all out again and stick the new stuff in, anal, but I feel it's always worth the effort when I get a "new old" car to really clean out its guts, and as the K series engines have a few internal mesh filter screens for the V-Tec thingie, as well as the usual one on the oil intake tube, it's preventative maintenance to keep the oily bits happy when I'm wringing it's neck The Bogan Cruise Ship might even come out from undercover this weekend for a cruise, weather permitting of course 
×
×
  • Create New...