Jump to content
SAU Community

Pivoting Front Camber Arms R32/33 Gts/gtr


fatz

Recommended Posts

I picked up a set of these for my 32 gtr from UAS

They are the ducks nuts… as opposed to the china shit that regularly loosens on the race track and constantly required tightening

Anyway I make no cash here this is just a straight from the manufacturer from Fulcrum Suspension purchased through unique

Blatantly ripped form UAS web page

Why A Pivoting Front Arm?

• All aftermarket and factory front camber arms (including noltec, midori, powertrix, SPL, you name it...) wear prematurely as they do not pivot or swivel in the centre. The many members have experienced broken camber arms can attest to this.

• By design, the front camber arm is required to pivot as it travels through its arc as shown in the video on this page (scroll to image 26 or thereabouts) http://www.uniqueautosports.com/racecarpage5.htm

• Without this pivoting centre, the centre of the arm is subjected to torsional load that leads to breakage

The pic below shows the angle that the arm is required to pivot on

About the UAS Arms

These have been in the works for roughly three years, including many revisions and hard laps on the UAS slot car. Features include

• They have a brass sleave internal which is pinned and an o-ring to seal them, with camber adjustable length of 15mm

• These don't bind unlike all the others and therefore they don't wear bushes or bearings or bend the arm

• A car fitted with these arms handles and steers better, as no load is transferred to arm as it travels through its ark. Other arms do not allow the arm to travel like this.

• M30 thread internal and chrome shaft and brass shim where it moves.

frontarm4zk3.jpg

so buy some quality people, they are more pricy than china shit but they don’t flog out!

Price: RRP on these will be $495/pair, group buy price for ten buyers is $395/pair.

Timeframe: Once I have the 10 orders, we will be looking at eight weeks for production.

How to Order: I will need a 50% deposit to confirm your order, please PM for details/

bank details:

peter carruthers

bsb 112-879

acc number 428 965 807

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 218
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

oh baby! I have been waiting for these for a long time. I have the noltec arms which WERE by far the best ones for 32, but they are apparently out of production and were about $500 or $600 when you could get them. these will be even better again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It seems t the SAU crew, those with R32, don't fully appreciate or understand the virtues of these arms. A lot of the zed crew forum gang are aware of on going problem with bending aftermarket arms or flogging out OEM or after market bushes due to this binding, check out the link.

Zed g

Bottom line is we have to get 100 pairs made to make it work. UAS has to commit to a bunch of money to do a production run. Let alone pay for many hours spent on this project, along with Fulcrum suspension engineers. It will go ahead anyway, as enough demand to stock some, and also getting orders from other workshops and suspension and race car specialists in Australia, as well as overseas. This is your chance to get at a much cheaper price and start to get your steering and suspension to work properly, and unrestricted, and thus perform better. Plus save money indirectly, with less tyre ware by relieving play in front end, less load on power steering, and not have to replace worn bushes or replace bent aftermarket arms.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All,

I have had the development set of these top arms in my 32GTR for 18 months now, the Jast Jap ones lasted 300km and were completly flogged out. These are probably better then the top of the line Jap ones. Anyone who wants a set and needs convincing, send me a PM and Im happy to chat or show you them wprking on my car.

They are the goods and have been perfect, considering I adjust them eavery 6 months from my road setting (1.5Deg) to my track setting (3 Deg) when the weather cools down.

Enjoy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re camber I run up to 5 degrees Neg, although cut the middle bolt down a little. Some want less neg camber as car lowered and road use only, so we cater for a little less neg, so need to be able to adjust longer, and then others want to adjust shorter for more neg camber for track use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my advice, make them able to go more short than long. so many aftermarket arms can go long enough to help people who have stupid low cars and want to save their precious 20inch white walled tyres. but honestly who cares about them?! they can buy any of the arms out there that already do this. but so many guys who have bought aftermarket arms have been dissapointed when they wouldn't go short enough to give them the neg they wanted. don't make this mistake. cut down the ends a bit so they don't meet in the middle without enough adjustment. OR the other option is make 2 types. they don't need to be radically different. one type can cater to say 10mm short and 10mm longer than stock. the other type cater to 15mm shorter and 5mm longer than stock. that will be the winning plan. :sick: listen to me john. I'm smart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fatz you butt muncher, send johnnie my post. tell him to listen to me! I know the pivoting arm is the best thing for you guys since scented lube, BUT if these arms only offer the same amount of adjustment as every other set out there then you are only solving half the problem. I reckon make 2 types. A "camber correction" set for people who have very low street cars and want to 'correct' their camber back to factory spec for improved tyre wear. and make a "track spec" version for guys who want scope to run lots of neg camber at a reasonable ride height. OR just make one type of arm but with lots of adjustment both shorter or longer (I know this will make the arm weaker though). if you can do that I'll sell me $$$ noltec ones and buy some. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re camber I run up to 5 degrees Neg, although cut the middle bolt down a little. Some want less neg camber as car lowered and road use only, so we cater for a little less neg, so need to be able to adjust longer, and then others want to adjust shorter for more neg camber for track use.

Shouldn't be too difficult to cut the middle bolt down a little? :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...