Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Wanted! Found Something Odd With Power Fc Setting


Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i recently bought a r32 gtr from a private buyer.

car has a fully built engine and is running a to4z with twin rb25 afm (green sticker) and the usual supporting mods.

now today i was going through the power-fc and noticed that the AFM selection was set on stock r33 gtr afm even though its fitted with rb25 afms???

so i switched the power-fc to the rb25 afm selection and took the car for a drive. now weird thing is the car drives alot smoother and comes onto boost earlier and the external gate open much, much earlier. BUT the car dosnt go anywhere near as hard as when its set to r33 gtr afm.

its weird actually, car makes all the correct sounds, revs out smoothly but just dosnt go anywhere when set on rb25 afm.. sort of feels like slipping clutch(its not! brand new twin)

im unsure of what to do? leave the power fc on the setting it came with (r33gtr afm) or switch it to the correct rb25 afm?

im getting it retuned in the next few weeks anyway so im sure the problem can be resolved then.

has anyone else come across this?

any help would be appreciated

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

put it back how it was and get it tuned properly

they might have used datalogit and edit'd the AFM ramp directly (unlikeky, but possible) so even though its selected a BCNR33 it could have a completely different ramp. either way, changing it to something different and trashing it, is not a good idea, given it would be using a standard AFM curve to suit HR32/ECR33 (assumption, they might have edit'd that one too)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the quick reply mate.

yes i understand what you mean about playing with settings and driving the car hard. :(

i only brought it up onto boost once and made sure i watched the knock level... but it was a once only trial and dont c the need to do again!!

however, i will drop by PITS in the next week or so and book her in for a tune.

thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the quick reply mate.

yes i understand what you mean about playing with settings and driving the car hard. :(

i only brought it up onto boost once and made sure i watched the knock level... but it was a once only trial and dont c the need to do again!!

however, i will drop by PITS in the next week or so and book her in for a tune.

thanks again

change it back to how it was and don't bother getting it tuned. leave it.

why do people have to touch something that aint broke?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

guilt-toy- well its not broken but its not exactly the smoothest tune!

plus i would rather get everything checked out for my own piece of mind! plus its cheaper then a rebuild if something was to go(or is) wrong with the tune.

thanks guys.

Edited by alex.a
Link to comment
Share on other sites

GTR maf is 65mm

GTST maf is 80mm

they flow more and are larger in size

remember a GTST has 1 x 80mm afm and GTR has 2 x 65mm

so when you fit a PAIR of GTST afm's to a GTR, its a fair upgrade

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
×
×
  • Create New...