Jump to content
SAU Community

Help With R34 Gtt Fmic Install


Recommended Posts

I am about to install my hdi fmic and would like some tips, hints and pics from people who have already done this.

There are a couple of issues that I am trying to find answers for these are,

1, exact location of hole cut under battery tray? ( don't want to guess )

2, how much of my reo bar needs cutting?

3, do I need to install a nipple in the inlet for the hose that runs to the power steering pump or can i tee it in else where?

4, how much of my front bar needs to be cut for piping ( its a standard s1 r34 gtt bar )

Any other tips or advice would be great!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there should be an instruction booklet with ur cooler kit and it will tell u where to cut the hole in the car.

some reo usually always needs to be cut, i cut about 1 cm off of mine

ur front bar will need a trim i had to cut about 1.5 inches out of it to fit

however i have heard of some ppl not needing to cut either it just depends on the specific kit u have and how well it lines up (mine was ok at best)

i dont know what nipple thing u r talking about

cheers

julz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you do know that as soon as you cut that hole for the return pipe in your car the car will be defective due to the arbag sensor?

I would highly recomend going a stealth kit which uses the original cooler pipes and holes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

explain deano??? where is the airbag sensor mate? in my experience the airbag sensor is up the front bar area?

Provided it's not structural element of the front end (ie chassis rail) it shouldnt be a problem. The front reo cut makes me nervous for sure as it's there low speed impacts and crumple control but to the best of my knowledge (so far) i'm not aware of the hole going through a chassis rail. Im still yet to get into my fmic install but soon thats for sure...

Are you saying the air bag sensor is in the chassis rail or area of the cutout? in which case thats hardly a product that responsible intercooler manufacturers should be marketing kits to cut now is it...

The question i want the answer to is where do i tap in the hose on top of the existing return pipe (ie the power steer one he mentioned in original post)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as im aware the airbag sensor on R34's is under the centre console, a G sensor or something?

I cant see how cutting a small hole would make any lick of difference to strength when GTR's are cut there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the hose to the power steer pump I bought a brass nipple with thread on one end from autobarn

Drill a hole in the underside of the cross over pipe above the pump and screw it in. The alloy pipes are fairly thin so I used some liquid metal, comes in a tube to create a nice fillet onto the nipple. Has been like that for 18 months. works well. Did the same for a boost feed as well if needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you do know that as soon as you cut that hole for the return pipe in your car the car will be defective due to the arbag sensor?

Don't think it will affect the airbag sensor, but I think any modification of the sheetmetal is an issue. I spoke to a NSW Highway Patrol cop last week who seemed to think that cutting holes for intercoolers is a no-no.

But, as he himself said, and I quote; "most Highway guys know f**k all anyway."

Just what we have always thought :)

Edited by Yeedogga
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will definately need to replace the washer bottle as someone else mentioned.

Now back to the airbag sensor topic. Under the water bottle there is an oval metal sort of thing which is apparently the sirbag sensor. Now i'm not 100% about in NSW but in victoria if the car is fitted with airbags it is defective to cut a whole for the cooler as this changes the strength of the chassis. With an R32 or series 1 R33 it's fine as they don't have airbags.

I to bought the HDI intercooler and then after reading arounf changed my mind and went for the just jap stealth kit.

I mean cops probably won't know what to look for, but if they defect you for something else when you take the car into a workshop to get it fixed they will pick things like that up.

you will then either need to have that section welded up and engineered, or try and get an engineers for the hole and cooler pipe (unlikely).

I do remember a member of these forums getting a defect and having to weld up the hole and get an engineers a while back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the hose to the power steer pump I bought a brass nipple with thread on one end from autobarn

Drill a hole in the underside of the cross over pipe above the pump and screw it in. The alloy pipes are fairly thin so I used some liquid metal, comes in a tube to create a nice fillet onto the nipple. Has been like that for 18 months. works well. Did the same for a boost feed as well if needed.

Thanks mate!

FYI for those interested once mine is installed i'll be doing a DIY thread for R34 gtt setup. That is unless someone does before hand of course...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We need pics of grumpy GTSBoy butchering things Do you remember what the plating on the crush tube and bolt was? I feel like the old killer cadmium ones work better than the current silver (zinc?) ones
    • I thought the problem with doing this is the engine needs more timing and therefore is actually less efficient? Modern engines need very little timing to get to MBT, those super sharp edges on the squish pads are probably not the right way to get there but doing away with it entirely doesn't sound right either.
    • this explains the possibility of several maps with different boost levels
    • ok, I understand much better how we can control the boost and increase the number of psi before opening the wastegate
    • Well.... yes and perhaps no. It depends on what you mean by "spool". For most of us, the point that we would describe as where the turbo is "spooling" is the point where the wheel speed gets high enough for it to start making some boost. This is coincidentally around about the point where it starts making noise - hence the "spooling" sound. If that is what you mean, then no - the wastegate should still be shut at this point. The boost will still be way below the point where it should start opening. If, on the other hand, you mean "spool" as "reach full boost", then yes. At the point where the boost has reached target, then boost control has already started. The wastegate is already open, and has been for some time. Some short time, definitely, but still, some time. If you have no boost controller - just the wastegate actuator connected to the boost source, then you have a mechanical system working as a pressure balance. There is pressure on one side of the wastegate actuator's diaphragm from the spring, and pressure on the other side coming from the boost measurement location (the "source"). This is not a digital thing. The wastegate does not stay shut until the boost pressure reaches the spring "pressure". The spring will start to compress as soon as you start to apply any pressure onto it. This can be controlled somewhat by adding pre-load into the spring, but you cannot add enough preload to make it into a digital switch behaviour. The wastegate will crack open and start to leak exhaust out (and therefore not though the turbine) well before you reach the target boost pressure. Electronic (and some mechanical/pneumatic) boost controllers will act to prevent the boost source applying pressure to the actuator until just before you reach target boost, thus preventing the wastegate from creeping open. And some boost controllers will apply boost pressure on the spring side to further push it shut. And this can be be necessary because the exhaust pressure in the manifold also pushes on the wastegate valve and tries to open it and you cab get it leaking even without it being connected to the boost source.
×
×
  • Create New...