Jump to content
SAU Community

Symptoms Of Lostawheelitis


Recommended Posts

Just curious guys.....

What are the symptoms in terms of idling/power/afr when a wheel on the rb26 gives out providing that it does NOT suck back any ceramic dust into the engine.

How do u know when ur wheel is gone? ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

try a big clunk when the majority of it flys through your dumps. be pretty obvious as you will have no power. plus if it sucked NO ceramic dust inside the engine you would be a minority of lucky people. takes allot of stress to rip a wheel apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you would be more than lucky if there isnt ceramic dust inside the motor...

But anyway, you cant really tell @ idle. Obviously power/boost wont be the same... thats a given, but then why even attempt that and almost gaurantee a dead motor.

Just pull the dump off

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok

Just wanted to know how to tell if the turbos on a gtr is good by just starting the car and free revving it without driving the car

I noticed too that it is possible to get up to about 10psi boost by just free revving the 26 to about 5000-6000rpm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well you have two turbos too worry about. but if it's stock then that seems reasonable. what give you the incline that they were damaged or were you just asking for future reference?

when it happens you will know about it. if you have the cash get some steel wheels put in there or upgrade. my 2c.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Symptoms are: no ability to make boost, and crappy running if you run the motor under the conditions in which it would have made boost. The working turbo will just push air backwards through the broken turbo's compressor, therefore no boost at the plenum. Idle and low throttle are fine as you are in vacuum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just put some steal wheel turbos on a mates gtr he was on his way to adelaide and was all fine then went to over take a car and no boost, there was no bang clunk or anything just fell off. replaced turbos and checked comp and all good.

so they can let go at anytime you dont need to be giving it a hard time at all. we also never found the wheel thanks to a decat pipe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what i have gathered you dont have to be boosting hard thus creating massive heat and spinning the turbos at 1000000rpm for them to let go.

I guess with age, the more shaft play u get, if the exh wheel only scrapes or bites the housing this would be enough to send it flying out the back!?! That's why it's more common with the r32?!?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its predominately heat, heat generated by shaft speed IMO.

Which is too much boost in the given application in simple terms.

eg. You are probably OK with 13-14psi for usual street duties

Circuit you wouldnt run anymore than 11-12psi... being extended laps is going to get a lot more heat in there

Hence its usually the rear turbo that lets go - hottest cyclinders are 5/6 in a stocker style setup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hence its usually the rear turbo that lets go - hottest cyclinders are 5/6 in a stocker style setup.

Why do 5/6 get hotter? Is that why ppl richen up 6? Or does 6 run a little leaner than the others so its just compensating?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • There are fixes for this. In industry we use compressed air for everything. It is frequently wet, and many things cannot tolerate it. So there are various forms of driers available that you can install. The simplest option for something like this would be a dessicant drier. Much cheaper to replace some silica gel than actuator cylinders.
    • That's a solid update mate, well done at WA FOS. You may already know this, but the actuators on the paddle shift are a service item and are sadly not that reliable. As I understand it they collect water from the compressor (condensation) which then rusts the bores/pistons in the actuators. A mate of mine had no end of trouble with them in one if his circuit cars, apparently it's a 'known issue'. Buy a couple of spares at great expense to ensure you never have any problems with the ones you've got! Any clues about what the new WTAC rules might be? While faster cars are cool the Pro class arms race has got to the point where you wouldn't even bother entering without a $1m budget and even then I don't think you'd win.  
    • https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3945-rb25det/trans/317/31940N/ The pictures of the part you're talking about is clearly not just one solenoid. You can see another picture of it here: https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/RE5R01A/product/9305/ The 4 speed automatic in the GTT is Nissan corporate stuff. You can search up similar jobs done on a Frontier or Pathfinder with a RE4R01B to get an idea for what the internals are going to look like and the procedure like this:   
    • Hi Chris,   long time since your post, just wondering if you have the Pinout for the v35 stereo plugs, I bought the roem nis2 harness but it doesn’t match the v35 connector. any help appreciated, I can work out the grn and power constant. But the rest might be hard. thanks Tyson
×
×
  • Create New...