Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

Why Nobody Makes Front Upper Arms That Sit Further Backwards?

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That's what you call good quality safety gear! But that can't be me, because I notice he remembered to put on his safety goggles where as I would have conveniently left them on top of the car and forgotten them. But that's another emergency room story.

The real problem is that now I'm in Melbourne it's damn cold (that's saying a lot as I work in shorts year round in Sydney) and I've had to start wearing pants when working my usual late night last minute jobs. So of course I'm welding and instead of dropping a little spot of weld on to my bare skin and causing a small little burn that's fixed with a lot of expletives, it instead gets logged in my coveralls, catches fire and before I notice it I've got a 2 inch round section of burnt polyester embedded in my skin!

I really should be working for ACCC in their product safety section, defining common sense safety practices, but again that's a whole other story...

Link to comment
Share on other sites


is there anything that can be done to fix this...

But the standard rear geometry in an R32 is not the best. The anti squat built into the lower control arm pivot points for example. Nisan recognised this, that's why R33's and R34 have far superior rear geometry

And also what can be done to fix the front, or do you jsut need to keep replacing the bushes?

I really dont want to change to a 34 to fix these issues

Thanks mate

Duncan covered the rear quite well. For the front I simply redrill the holes in the brackets for the upper control arm inner pivot to remove the twist. From memory the rear hole needs to be further down, lower in the bracket, by around 15 mm. To work out where to redrill the hole I do a dummy assembly (no spring or shock installed and at the correct ride height) and then put the front bolt into the upper control arm via the standard hole. Then it's obvious where the rear hole needs to be drilled.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 12 years later...
On 8/13/2009 at 8:35 AM, djr81 said:

Here are a couple of drawings and three photos.

The first shows what Nismo do to the standard upper link bracket to allow for more castor/camber. Essentially it is a stock component but with the holes drilled differently - the front moved closer to the centreline of the car & the rear lower. Thus the upper link is rotated on two axes - allowing for more castor.

The second shows a stock LHS bracket.

The third shows the Nismo bracket installed with a stock upper arm. Interestingly (or not) the bracket ends up giving you less camber for the same arm length. The shot was taken before I installed some new arms that I had made.

The fourth is a drawing of a Cusco arm - these are 10mm shorter than the stock arms. Note the trail. Unfortunately I don't have a drawing of a stock arm. Mostly due to being lazy.

The last shows the whole lot bolted up with the new arm - in rattle pack black, no less. I drew the arms to use the Whiteline bushes.

As an aside note that Nismo used to do a sliding bracket for the R32, but now all you get is a stock item with harder bushes. Also their castor rods are approx 5mm shorter than the stock items.






Just for posterity I believe there to be an error in the location of the NIsmo bolt hole in the first drawing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey I have a spare CAS unit if you wanted to borrow or buy
    • All issues mentioned are mitigated by running billet gears and a long nose crank. My question pertains more to the oil pump housing differences. I already have an RB25 pump housing I wanted to put billet pump gears in. I was wondering if there's any advantage if I purchase an N1 pump instead and put billet gears into that. Even stranger is I found a link (One in OP) that states the RB25 pump housing is actually preferable which I'm wondering why.   Thanks
    • In the middle of the rb25 upgrade on the rb20. Its actually a Arashi bolt on. Its in and lined up perfect First question is can I use a standard hose as my oil return line? New turbo fitting is shorter and having to  change the line/hose The oil supply/intake hose has a smaller hole than stock. Not sure I should go back with the old one   Any other tips would be appreciated   
    • So just to update: I changed the brushes over and polished the commutator using a 1500 grit sanding sponge; it was super easy to polish being copper. A power tool wasn't necessary, although could have made it easier if you have the finesse to use it well.     Yet this was to no avail, the motor worked as it did before, stop, start, stop start, etc. Today I went to my mechanic's shop to do a few things. I showed him the motor and asked in broken Japanese "who can fix this?", he took it from me and had a crack, was able to fix it-ish. From what I could understand (which is very little), the problem with the motor was with the clutch disc located amongst the gears, I saw it whilst he was working but couldn't identify any issues. I say he fixed it-ish, because now the motor will run continuously when free from the rack, which is great. But once I had reinstalled it, the tilt function would work but the sliding function sounded off, like the motor was under more load than before and the motor was struggling. We're going to pull apart the rack in the new year and see what we can find.  Hopefully this is of some help to others that get sunroof motor issues with their R34, S15 Silvia, or highly unlikely the Z10 cube. I will update this when more progress is made.
    • AFAIK in the RB26 section of the service manual it explicitly says not to take apart the AAC valve. If you took it apart once there's no harm in taking it apart again to see if you can save it.
  • Create New...