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Thought it would be good for stag owners to let other stag owners what mods they consider to be the best/value and performance gains made, also things that might have been a waste of money.Love to here all your thoughts and latest mods :rant: So to get the ball rolling just fitted 2 my c34 an e bay split dump pipe 3 inch Hks copy $120 delivered and decatted my cat. Good power gains were made car comes on boost a lot quicker and not really much louder.

Stag on :)

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I'd say coilovers, its so much nicer to drive now.

Do you have a cat back as well? Because I was thinking of installing a split dump by itself but thought it would still be too loud?

No cat back yet just straight through rear muffler. I am starting at the turbo and working back, and the standard dump is so shit waste gate flow hits the back wall of stock dump pipe. I suppose how quiet it is will depends on rear muffler and weather you still run cat and pipe diameter. :)

Thought it would be good for stag owners to let other stag owners what mods they consider to be the best/value and performance gains made, also things that might have been a waste of money.Love to here all your thoughts and latest mods ;) So to get the ball rolling just fitted 2 my c34 an e bay split dump pipe 3 inch Hks copy $120 delivered and decatted my cat. Good power gains were made car comes on boost a lot quicker and not really much louder.

Stag on :(

Thought I would paste this in from r33 section also put it in the getting more power out of stag dont slap me over the wrist for my cut and paste just trying to be helpful found this gide helpful when I had my 33 most things should translate to c34 stag :cool: Although remember auto stags will need more piggy back type ecu's. Unless some one has managed to run a chip in a auto c34???Engine Tuning Stage 1

Exhaust (around 160rwkw)

The RB25DET is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have the RB sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout the rev range. The new exhaust should start from the turbo with a dump pipe either a 3" open bell mouth or better still a split dump to separate the gases from the turbine and wastegate. From here a high quality 3" high flow cat should be used, then 3" all the way to the back of the car with high flow mufflers.

Average Cost: ???

Intake (160 to 170rwkw)

Now we have the exhaust side of the engine breathing the next step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filter. If you choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A cold air intake to the filter from the front of your Skyline will also give you a performance advantage. 5-10 rwkw is achievable with this mod.

Average Cost: ???

Intercooler Upgrade (165 to 180rwkw)

The standard R33 intercooler is tiny and before a boost increase I recommend installing a better cooler if you don’t you risk detonation on warm days. The R34 GTT intercooler is a good cheap upgrade for the R33 and bolts onto the same position as the stock item with minimal modification. The GTT intercooler is rated up to about 200rwkw if you plan on going further than this power figure a GTR or aftermarket front mount will be required. Be aware that with these systems new pipe work will be required and you may notice a small decrease in throttle response. You may notice a small increase in power with this mod without increasing boost as airflow will increase and the air will be denser. But it’s the ability to run more boost that makes this mod a good one. If you don’t plan on increasing your power level to over 200rwkw I recommend the GTT intercooler as its cheep and you will notice no difference in throttle response.

Average Cost: ???

Boost increase (175 to 185rwkw)

In standard form the R33 runs a two stage boost control system 5psi to 4500 rpm then 7psi to red line 7000 rpm. As mentioned before the turbo’s exhaust wheel is ceramic and they tend to fail if to much heat is generated. The amount of boost you can run with the stock turbo is debatable but I don’t recommend running more than 10 psi. You have a few options when choosing to increase the boost either a manual boost controller, electronic boost controller, or a new wastegate actuator.

A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air causing the wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough and is measured in mmg not psi or bar. Manual boost controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there disadvantages some can cause boost spikes and boost creep I have also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range.

Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good enough.

A 3rd option is to install a different wastgate actuator and the good news is the R32 GTST item is exactly the same as the R33 except the spring inside is set for 10psi. R32 actuators can be hard to find but I think it’s the best option for this level of modification as boost spikes and boost creep are eliminated.

No mater which system you choose the 2 stage boost control system should be disconnected. After this mod is carried out many people notice flat spots throughout the rev range this is due to the ECU seeing an increase in airflow and as a safety precaution it richens the air fuel mixtures. Many people find re-gaping the spark plugs from 1.1mm to 0.8mm fixes this problem but if it does not you need to consider the next upgrade.

:banana: Stag on!!

Before any mods it pays to replace everything that has worn out, shocks, tie rod ends, bushes. Just bringing this stuff back to new will help alot!

Best mod(s) = Swaybars and adjustable caster bushes(more cater)

strut brace does impact on boot space a little but i find that most things fit around it etc (sits up pretty much against the back seat anyway) and if you ever need to take something larger, it's 2 bolts to remove the bar - just leave the end plates attached to the strut tops :down:

100_0711.jpg

100_0712.jpg

I'm going to cheat, and say the whole conversion for mine: my old man had everything done at once: mildly worked RB26, PFC, rims, brakes and SK suspension package etc...

Probably the most dramatic mod I did myself was......... Once again: the rear strut brace: ties it down so much better, and makes it heaps more tail-happy... For the sake of a couple of greenbacks, I think you'd be hard pressed to find better mod :down:

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