R33 Gtst Wheel Alignment

[Guilt-Toy]

Anyone know how you should set your cars wheel alignment up for track racing? I cannot just take my car to a place to get a wheel alignment done here and say "i want to track race it" i need to get the settings on paper and tell them how i want it setup.

want to change it for track racing and for drag racing. anyone have any ideas ?

[Newy]

Yes you can. Any shop who is worth there money will be able to recomend settings for track, daily use etc. What style of track racing are u intending? drift, circuit, drag? I assume your new to the track, so id recomend something rather Nuetral and go from there to suit ur driving.

[Guilt-Toy]

Yes you can. Any shop who is worth there money will be able to recomend settings for track, daily use etc. What style of track racing are u intending? drift, circuit, drag? I assume your new to the track, so id recomend something rather Nuetral and go from there to suit ur driving.

Dude, I am not in Australia anymore. I cannot go to the wheel alignment place and ask them for a track setup. they have no idea about these things. I need some settings to give to the guy and i need to over look to make sure they are correct.

This is a place where it took 2 weeks to find someone who has a timing light and even then it did not work the best.

can anyone help?

[Swiper the Fox]

Dude, I am not in Australia anymore. I cannot go to the wheel alignment place and ask them for a track setup. they have no idea about these things. I need some settings to give to the guy and i need to over look to make sure they are correct.

This is a place where it took 2 weeks to find someone who has a timing light and even then it did not work the best.

can anyone help?

if you need a timing light i can send you one over.

[Duncan]

what's adjustable in the suspenions (ie have you put in any adjustable bushes or arms in it, or just standard sutff?)

assuming you can only adjust toe, try 1-2mm out each side on the front (helps turn in to corners) and 0 to -1mm (in) on the rear for stability under brakes. If you can adjust camber front and rear you would be looking for 2-3o camber on the front and 1.5-2o camber on the rear. if you can adjust camber take as much as you can get 5o+

also depends on what spring rates you have, what sway bars, which tyres you are using, and which track it is for.

[Guilt-Toy]

everything is standard except for caster rods and i got G4 coil overs.. so those settings should be okay?

[Duncan]

yep should be OK. run heaps of castor 5-7o. As you lower the ride height on the coilovers you will get more camber so to some extent you can use that. but generally you the ride height people use (355mm front to middle of wheel, 345mm rear to middle of wheel) means you have too much camber not too little.

also since you have coilovers it is worth getting the car corner weighted and get the ride heights set properly then.

[FineLine]

These are my current settings for qld raceway.

ride height is 145 mil wheel centre to guard all round

front... 8 degrees castor. 1.4 mil toe out, 4 degrees camber

rear... .5 mil toe in, 1.5 degree camber

Set your ride height before you adjust anything. adjusting ride height after you,ve made adjustments will alter some of them.

From my limited experience I can say that nothing is set in stone so keep reading the feedback your arse dyno and the tyres give you and adjust accordingly. Little bits at a time.

[Sydneykid]

ride height is 145 mil wheel centre to guard all round

Surely 345 mm

Don't you find excessive corner exit oversteer with 20 mm of rake?

For us the range is usually 5mm to 15mm, 20 mm improves the turn in a bit but the sacrifice in corner exit speed is too great.

That's why we run 355 front and 345 rear, it gives that 10 mm rake.

Is that why you have so much toe in on the rear (5 mm each side), to compensate for the 20 mm rake?

Cheers

Gary

[FineLine]

Surely 345 mm

Don't you find excessive corner exit oversteer with 20 mm of rake?

For us the range is usually 5mm to 15mm, 20 mm improves the turn in a bit but the sacrifice in corner exit speed is too great.

That's why we run 355 front and 345 rear, it gives that 10 mm rake.

Is that why you have so much toe in on the rear (5 mm each side), to compensate for the 20 mm rake?

Cheers

Gary

Typo. I meant 345 mil ride height and the rear toe is .5 as in half a mil.

I would kill for oversteer. Very little i do afffects the understeer that has always been so prevelant in my car. I can power oversteer my way through it but that is not the desired method.

As a last resort I am going to set the swaybars to absolute extreme opposite ends ends of the spectrum to see what effect it has.

[Duncan]

I would kill for oversteer. Very little i do afffects the understeer that has always been so prevelant in my car.

aint that the truth. understeer and more understeer is all I've ever had

oversteer is in there somewhere but requires real abuse to make it happen.....heavy foot, deliberate steering input, locking rear brakes or rear toe out

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

rear factory camber can be adjusted without the need for aftermarket arms or offset bushing

front camber is fixed can't be factory adjusted without offset bushing or arms

well these are my settings for day to day use and other shet.

front

toe out 0.5mm each side

castor is 7.5 degrees with offset SuperPro bushing

camber is 1.6 degrees neg due to height and is unadjustable, will increase neg camber soon with SuperPro bushing

rear

toe in 0.5mm each side

camber 1.8 degrees neg maxed out factory setting, wanted less neg camber ordering SuperPro bushing soon

I think that's a reasonable setup for everyday use, some track, and drag, ideally less negative camber on the rear is better for drag, but on the track more camber at the front would be better.