Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


S14 With Neo Rb25 Drift Car.


Recommended Posts

yeah more like grenaded haha.

ad to say that the beams motor didnt get anywhere near pulling a power run let alone cracking gate.

Was on dyno for an hour or so going through basic fuel map tuning at light load under 3500rpm when it came to a grinding halt. Made a really bad noise and completely seized the motor.

Bit of a sad result after all the time and effort. Got sold a dud engine and beginning to think that rod bolts were loose perhaps.

Massive thanks to the guys at Garage 7 for their help, patience and support. Gets hoping i can get a motor sorted soon.

12193436_891535807562190_847376416094200

12196172_891535827562188_863507625662445

12193568_891535877562183_108094011755090

12195928_891927430856361_235718689819660

12208870_891927464189691_329474261062924

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did it have the factory seal of approval or was it a "built" motor? I've seen and heard so many rebuilt motors go pop due to the guy only building 1 a year and doing something wrong. Something to be said for stock bottom ends, the guy at the factory did a shit tonne of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

at first i thought it was a loose rod bolt... but the big end was still firmly on the crank and the bearings and crank are still good. it looks like a total rod failure. Motor still had OEM sealant on sump.

Now on the hunt for a new motor and some stronger rods which i'll put in. not sure if i want to go down the path of forged pistons however

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

sadly no. cause that would have topped it!

so brief update.. stripped new motor down, Got some spool conrods ready to go in once i get some new ACL bearings for it (wanted OEM but too hard to get) weighing up if i should change pistons to some 2jzgte ones or retain the OEM pistons. 2j pistons fit right in, same pin height and ring land set up, they even take the same rings. however they need machining of the skirts to clear oil squirters and also to recess the valves. Once done and fitted gives around 9.8:1 CR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • looking good mate keep up the good work i like following this thread.  
    • 20220120_204714.mp4     Hey guys, passenger door jammed shut on me, I managed to get the door card off in one piece and have a look in there but can't seem to find the problem. Ive tried using combos of using the key and holding the interior lock open, using both door handles and the central lock button. Ive tried pushing and pulling the door latch and lock rods manually The lock mechanism seems to turn and push the lever when I turn the key and everything looks to be in place. Cant for the life of me find the problem. Any help would be appreciated. If there is a manual way to open the door I haven't found it. Im guessing something inside the latch mechanism has gone bad but how can you get it out with the door jammed shut? 
    • There are literally dozens of aftermarket throttlebodies in DCOE carby format. The RB26 ITBs are so very very close to the DCOE bolt pattern that it is difficult to believe that Nissan came that close and didn't actually just use the DCOE pattern. Then, you can look at just about any EFI motorbike from Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda, etc that used single throttles, in whatever size floats your boat. 45mm? 48mm? Larger? They're all out there. Just build manifold and plenum and linkages to suit. As for compression and cams - the larger the cam duration, the more compression you can run. Just sayin'. And as for cost for bottom end.....8500 rpm is well within the limits of the stock bottom end. Especially NA. It won't cost much to make it good for >9000. Just need some light pistons and some moderately strong rods and bolts. On the subject of VCT.....all RB25s have it (except for the very first ones in the R32). The vanilla 25s in the R33 era cars were all VCT. There's almost no difference in the VCT between vanilla and Neo engines. The difference between Neos and vanilla 25s is that the Neos have solid lifters, a different included angle in the valves with a shallow combustion chamber. And in the NAs.....not particularly good flowing ports. I would not write off the power potential of an L series vs an RB25DE though, neo or not. 2.8L & 3L (and larger) L series builds, even running Mikunis, have made really large power. There is nothing wrong with the single cam engines. The twin cams are not inherently a massive leap in power potential.
    • Might need to make phone calls for garage plans before further car plans
×
×
  • Create New...