Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, my drivers side power window does not work anymore, its stuck halfway down and for the life of me i cant figure it out.

The switch works, and the passenger side works fine, both from the drivers switch and passenger side. I have taken the switch out and played arround with it, i can hear a noise coming from inside the door when the switch is in the up or down position but it does not move. Last night i got in the car, and the window went all the way down by its self, then halfway back up again and is now stuck half way up kind of. It has happened to me, twice now that the window has moved by its self, and gotten stuck last time i just decided to start working again. The issue has been ongoing for about a week now.

If anyone can shed some light on this or how to fix it, would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Alex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298078-power-windows-r33/
Share on other sites

This seems to have been asked every 2nd day this week... My guess would be the relay box (inside the door panel) has some crappy solder connections. Happened to me, twice. Happens to a lot of people.

You can take it out and try to fix the joints if you're handy with a soldering iron, or if you're lazy (like me!) go to the wreckers, they're about $75-150 depending.

I think S1 and S2 are different.

I had a similar problem where the window would stop at certain points and I'd hear a clicking noise, I could help it all the way up by hand. I changed both the regulator and motor and now it's perfect again, took only 30-40 minutes to swap out.

S1 and S2 are only different in regards the switch loom plug and the S2 (and S1.5 I think) won't have the relay that S1 owners talk about repairing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...