Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I'm buying an R34 AWD controller, however there are a few different models of controllers that i have seen. Here is what I think might be correct:

Attesa E-TS Pro (V spec) : 47850-AA410 (written on on the supplement 1 Manual, BR-12)

Attesa E-TS Pro (V spec II) : 47850-AA411 (Seen it on one of the Japaneses website)

E-TS/ABS (Normal GTR-early model) : 47850-AA210 (written on the supplement 1 Manual, BR-41)

OR : 47850-AA400 (Seen it on one of the Japaneses website) which one? :sick:

E-TS/ABS (Normal GTR-latter model) : 47850-AA210 (pure guess)

OR : 47850-AA400 (Seen it on one of the Japaneses website) which one :)

Can anyone please clarify it for me?

Thanks!~~~~~ :cheers:

I have an S15, I'm putting the whole power line from R34 GTR V spec into the little silvia. That means not only I will have to put in the RB and getrag 6 speed, pull the whole front and rear submembers out and replace with the R34 members and shafts but also the V spec conputer, V spec hydraulic pump, and V spec rear diff, HICAS controller and steering rack; G sensor, Yaw sensor and steering sensor. Everything will be custom wiring, metal work, fiberglass work involve.

Yeh i know alot of people would say better off buying a GTR, but this is the project I'd been planing for the last two years. I have most of the parts ordered and almost ready to start. I believe I can get it done.

I will probably hunt down a V spec2 controller since I believe they are latter model which probably gives me more refined control.

PS: to convert your car into a V spec you will need the following units/parts: V spec Diff, V spec Atesa controller, V spec hydraulic pump, and a couple more relays for the V spec diff solenoid. Then you have to do a little custom rewire to the controller.

Wish me good luck:D :D

Sheesh, more power to ya! Although i had an S15, and the thing i miss the absolute most is how nimble and chuckable they are. The extra weight and 4wd may sour the experience...

Sounds like this is the one for you:

Attesa E-TS Pro (V spec) : 47850-AA410 (written on on the supplement 1 Manual, BR-12)

An old mate begun the process on his S15, and called it quits half way in. He based it upon the R32 GTR driveline as it is similar or the same floor pan (from memory). Rear subframe, shafts, diff all bolt straight up. Gluck mate!

Thanks mate. I will make sure i pull everything out first so I cant quit half way:D. There was one of these controller selling in Japan auction but now it is gone. Probably they'd seen my post and brought it>.<.

Anyway. I have a 47850-AA400 on me, it is got a hand written "v-spec" on it. It's probably an early model. I will give it a go, my guess to find out which one is it is to just power it up and see if the A-LSD light pops up. If it does it probably is a V spec. But I am still looking for the loom to hook it up, cant find the R34 loom anywhere. However I have a strong feeling the R33 loom will fit as well, I have the 33 hydaulic pack(with the controller) coming, guess i can find out soon, 33 Rear loom is just much much easier to find.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...