Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Way To Tap Into Ecu Wires


ascenion24
 Share

Recommended Posts

So ive got my wideband controller working on the bench, time to hook it up to the car and get some data logging done.

The wideband controller has various inputs for speed, rpm etc... all from the ecu.

What I would like to know is, what is the best way to tap into the ecu to get the signal? Im fearing the only way I have is to cut and re solder the wire harness as it comes out of the ECU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

STOP!!!! Dont cut the wires, just strip some of the coating off them and splice the wires you wish to tap in around the bare ecu wires and solder them together and

tape it up with some good quality electrical tape.

post-41401-1266391544_thumb.jpg

Picture care of evilution.co.uk

post-41401-1266391743_thumb.jpg

Picture care of legacygarage.com

Hope that helps. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

99 GTT, perfect, actually dont know why I didnt think of that its so obvious...

errno, i've seen those before, but im a bit skeptical, what if they cut in too deep, id worry about the wire breaking over time.

Thanks guys, off to do some soldering tomorrow and hopefully logging some AFRs

Edited by ascenion24
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Every auto-elec and electronics person I've talked to says to steer-clear of those devices, and to strip and solder (that's what I've done for my own ECU) ... but each to their own.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These join every phone line cable in NSW, look inside those cylindrical junction boxes and you will see hundreds of them, Ive used them on and of for the last 20 yrs and had no problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if they cut only the insulation then there not making contact with the copper, so they must come into contact and therefor cut the copper wire to some degree.

Im guessing you'd have to know the thickness of your insulation to get the right size of those joiny thingos... seems to much of a pain in the ass considering the consequences could be no connection or cut wire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a while ago i thought i'd give those little clip things a go, to install a SAFC on my old 32. driving up the motorway one day and the unit just died, hence my car died. not fun at 100kph. it was that little clip splicer thing that wasn't giving a good connection, and yes i did use the correct sized one for the cable i was splicing. i wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

what i like to do is cut the wire. strip the ends. slide a piece of heatshrink down the wire. solder it back up. slide the heatshrink over the join and shrink it down. you cant go wrong if you solder a wire properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if they cut only the insulation then there not making contact with the copper, so they must come into contact and therefor cut the copper wire to some degree.

Im guessing you'd have to know the thickness of your insulation to get the right size of those joiny thingos... seems to much of a pain in the ass considering the consequences could be no connection or cut wire.

Put your credit card against your leg, is it touching your leg, has it cut your leg.

Do you use M8 bolts to go onto a M6 nut, of course not, you use the correct size.

Ive connected up my shift light recently in 20 seconds, that included wrapping the connection in insulation tape, and, there is no drop in volts from the ECU to the light.

Ive used these for 20 odd years and if you do the job correctly you wont have any problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And I hope the relay receives the trigger signal from the ECU and not the ignition power. It should prime and stop if the motor isn't running.
    • I disconnected before the fuel pump and restriction still there. Disconnected at turbosmart fpr and also after ethanol sensor and pressure dropped. No kinks in line but I found one spot above diff that I can hear the fuel flowing while running so I'm wondering if there is built up corrosion  from 10 years of sitting.  I had injectors cleaned and tested and one was dead but rest were fine. Was never an issue when I owned the car previously but I'll talk to jez about his thoughts on if they should be changed to newer tech. Thx guys at least I know the setup should work again. Pump is wired directly to relay and not using factory plug any  more 
    • Nice work on the shroud/ducting.  
    • Hi and best of luck with your car. Its a bit hard to tell how low the car is all round from that pic or if its been lowered or not. 90mm is a bit low on the front apron but it depends on the shocks & springs condition & whether or not its been lowered. Going to 19” wheels will give you 15-20mm depending on rubber but you might need new shocks. Mine -2005 are weeping fluid slightly but have lasted 19years!!. So if yours are original they need replacing anyway if they havent been touched before.
    • Hi everyone, Recently got handed down a 2004 Skyline 350GT Coupe. I would like to change the wheels as the previous owner installed some weird ones. The current ones are 215/45ZR18, unsure of the offset, and sit pretty deep in. Would like to increase the ground clearance slightly as well as I need to get it roadworthy standard, currently sitting at 90mm. Was thinking that maybe I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone by getting new wheels.  Pictures of current wheels: https://imgur.com/bg1QMIu Any recommendations for the types of wheels I should be on the lookout for? Like the maximum and minimum offset, sidewall height, width, etc.  Sorry in advance if I'm noob, I do not know much about cars other than how to change the oil, a blown tyre and brakepads....
×
×
  • Create New...