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edthemanjp

R32-r33 Gtr Transfer Box

21 posts in this topic

I have a transfer case I got from someone who at some point put gear oil in the transfer case. This came with a transmission. I do not know how long it was used like this but I'm taking it apart to clean up, check the clutch plates, and put back together for use.

I've noticed that the 33 transfer case dosen't have the oil gutter as illustrated in the FSM for the 32.

Does anyone know what the thickness on the plates shoud be or any way to tell if they need replacing?

The other question is how do you determine if it is okay to use off the car?

I currently have the box dissasembled.

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Well I checked the clearance on the clutch packs and there a little out, clutch packs look okay. Will purchase a thicker retainer plate as per FSM and put it back together.

By the pictures u can tell it got a little warm

IMG_6732.jpg

IMG_6737.jpg

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Hey mate, just finished doing my transfer case with new plates, bearings, seals etc- when measuring the gap between the top clutch plate and ring you need to have the hydraulic ram installed also as it pushes on the pack when installed. The distance should be between 0.2-0.5mm on an R32. As far as I'm aware there is a small amount of preload on the R33 transfer. Not sure what else is different.

Watch that the clutch hub doesn't pop too far out (towards top of case) or the two retaining half circlips can pop out (undo the lot again to re-do)- that's why the manual suggests you put 2 small drops of retaining compound on the ring and half circlips when installing.

The bottom plate in the clutch pack set up is the 5mm one. If you need slome explaining or assistance in measuring the clearance for the shim between the top bearing on the clutch hub and the top plate let me know- I have a 1mm, 5mm and 6mm shims left over.

The heat pattern is also from the welding of the hub base.

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Awesome to hear from someone who has done this. I'm reading the FSM and taking it slow but when someone has already plowed the field and their helpfull too, bonus. That was a question I was coming to and I was going to determine or try to determine if I was missing something when I put the clutch packs back in and measure, I was going to check gap again to see how far it was out.

I have to explain a little. I broke 2nd gear on my Route 6 tranny and had obtained an R33 GTR tranny earlier except the R33 tranny had gear oil in the transfer case. I cleaned the R33 tranny completely, checked for damage, and put it back together. I attached my transfer case from my the R32 tranny to the R33 tranny and I'm suing it now no problem. I've got a OS tranny coming minus the transfer case so I want to prepare this transfer case for this tranny

Did you use permatex to seal the case the manual states (sealing fluid 519 part #c1335 31x25) I used the black permatex on the other part of transmission to seal it and it works no problems no leaks yet.

Hey mate, just finished doing my transfer case with new plates, bearings, seals etc- when measuring the gap between the top clutch plate and ring you need to have the hydraulic ram installed also as it pushes on the pack when installed. The distance should be between 0.2-0.5mm on an R32. As far as I'm aware there is a small amount of preload on the R33 transfer. Not sure what else is different.

Watch that the clutch hub doesn't pop too far out (towards top of case) or the two retaining half circlips can pop out (undo the lot again to re-do)- that's why the manual suggests you put 2 small drops of retaining compound on the ring and half circlips when installing.

The bottom plate in the clutch pack set up is the 5mm one. If you need slome explaining or assistance in measuring the clearance for the shim between the top bearing on the clutch hub and the top plate let me know- I have a 1mm, 5mm and 6mm shims left over.

The heat pattern is also from the welding of the hub base.

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i've used threadlocker 518 flange sealant- I like the threadlocker stuff as it's less messy, easier to cleanup on reassembly and never had a leak, the manual states 518 or equivalent for the top plate join.

likewise i've got just the transfer case as a spare and will swap it over with the one on the car as it slips a lot, looking forward to feel the difference new clutch packs make.

When you measure the clutch pack to retaining ring gap you will need to have it all assembled with the hydraulic ram installed or it won't be correct. This includes putting the assembled (but without the top chain drive hub) hub assembly with speedo drive into the case and torquing up the locknut with the driveshaft flange installed (I know I mentioned the ram previously)- I would check the differences in the R33 transfer case to the R32 for the preload factor in the R33. Don't have an R33 manual sorry. Might look one up though....

Also to correct myself, I have a 0.4 and a 0.5 shim left over for the hub bearing to top case clearance gap. I would be considering replacing this bearing (plus a few others- 2 week wait from japan for most of them) if you are doing it properly, as well as the seals- the pump might be out too, if you have a depth micrometer you can check the clearance between the gears and the case, should be .02mm to .04mm clearance. You cannot buy new gears as they no longer make them so I had to pop the case on the lathe and take a small cut off the face to reduce the clearance. Also trued up both running faces.

Also get some thread sealant for the bolts that bolt the pump back on to the case as you cannot buy the replacement bolts anymore either. So Nissan told me. Even though I then got 2 in the delivery- go figure. These are seal bolts so it's important.

Am more than happy to share what I've learned in the process- the manual is fairly self explanatory for most of it but don't hesitate to PM me if you need a little help

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should the clutch plates have a thickness tollerance? I'm replacing all seals and anything that seems out of tolerance which brings up an interesting topic. I initially half heartedly cleaned the TC and then put ATF in and spun the gears a lot (used a drill with 1/2 inch drive and socket) but when I opened the pump it only had evidence of gear oil not ATF so it may not be working. You said you had to take a little off the pump (I have a depth micrometer). Did you deck the pump faces to bring the tolerance down? Also after this is done the pump gears also need a tad taken off to function? I will check the pump gears for warpage. Yeah I remember the FSM said replace the pump bolts and I'm glad to see that thread sealant works, on another note the inside of the TC has what looks like residual Thread locker

I only have an R33 engine manual, still looking. Didn't have time to look for seals today but I have a R32 Parts manual (Japanese) which has the seal part numbers and I'm cross referencing these with other Nissan vehicles. Nissan Pathfinder, and currently the AWD lexus share some of the same items, just a matter of finding them, and maybe the pump bolts are the same. Another difference there was only one rubber o ring, the large one. None of the other o rings were present as in the parts manual.

If I have any more I will PM

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The pump- I measured my pump gears with a micrometer and then the depth of the casing without the gears- found the surfaces weren't exactly symmetrical making it difficult to get an accurate measurement with the depth micrometer as per manual. I wouldn't machine the gears as I imagine they are case hardened, just put the gear case in a lathe (4 jaw chuck needed for non concentric inner circle), true the inner face then the outer to required tolerance to suit the gears (I used high speed steel, radiused nose sharpened on a stone rather than a replaceable tip tool for better surface finish)- I ended up taking about 0.04 off the inner face for it to run true and then 0.085 off the outside face for the clearance I needed

Chase the threads for the seal bolts with a tap and clean the bolts really well.

If you send me a list of the seals and bearings you want to replace I'll give you the part numbers- or nissan should have them on their computer.

Dunno about the clutch plates, I'll have a look at my worn ones when I take out the transfer case in the car, but it's the friction plates that wear down- the criss cross pattern disappears and ATF can no longer be dispersed from between the faces under clamping and they slip, so I think I remember reading somewhere. You plates look OK, they're certainly the big dollar replacement part for the case (Apart from replacing the hydraulic ram- would you believe its 450 or so bucks? And the chain is about 600.....)

Let me know how you go

Andrew

And if you find a downloadable R33 manual let me know......

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doo doo I cna't send PM's my thread count is not high enough yet. I'm replacing all 4 bearings along the main drive line, we have a company called McGuire bearing, they have almost every bearing known to man and cheaper they have all my bearings in one day. The problem is seals and snap rings.

I have seal part numbers. I think I can reuse the snap rings but the FSM says to replace and I wanted to replace the clutch drum snap ring and seal ring from pump cover page 92 of FSM, these I don't have the part number, do you have these and if so could you tell me what they are?

What type of quick drying sealent did you use?

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I understand what your saying about the thrust washer and thrust washer ring. I didn't have that seal stuff so I used a little grease and put ATF around to cause a liquid bond till I had it pressed in. I'm currently stopped till I get seals.

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i'm in the middle of moving house so my paperwork is in a box somewhere and can't find the parts breakdown sheet. Do have my picking order form so from what I can tell these will be the part numbers. You'll need to double check with nissan as sometimes they have a different number from the part sheet to the order number. They should heave all the info you need on their computer.

Seal part numbers- 33216-05U00 Should be the rear seal ($27.50)

33111-30C00 ' ' ' front cover seal (on the pump) ($8.81)

33140-05U00 " " " front driveshaft seal ($33.16)

33189-05U00 " " " striking rod seal ($18.58)

33118-05U00 O-ring for pump ($7.88)

Extras you might consider- ring seals inside pump case for shaft (x2) 31525-05U00 (($53.60)

Clutch release bearing (it looks nissan only, goes between hub and front case, needs to have shims for this gap to be 0.2-0.35mm) 31409-05U00 ($25.38)

Plus the bearing with the retaining ring in it, can't find the part number.

Snap ring for clutch pack drum 31568-21X00 ($12.39)

lock nut on flange- 38216-31G0A ($12.97)

Snap ring for drive flange end of case bearing 33138-05U00 ($32.22) That doesn't sound right, I'll have to check it.

I didn't end up bothering with the retaining fluid but made very sure the hub assembly didn't pop out enough for the half rings to slip out. Little bit of a pain when you're press fitting the chain drive hub onto the clutch hub.

I used Locktight 518 for the pump cover and locktight threadsealant for the pump bolts.

Let me know how you go

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Please don't worry anything about my stuff, take care of your move thats most important. Thank you for the part numbers, I will get with Nissan.

I'm replacing all the bearings along the main shaft. sourced from local bearing shop

The 33 TC only had 1 rubber o ring, the other difference is the chain gear on the main shaft is cast with the spacer, no seperation. I will check about spacers whe n I get closer.

The clutch packs are in and gappage is good, using old spring for now

Edited by edthemanjp

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33216-05U00 This part I picked up from Infinity

33111-30C00

33140-05U00

33189-05U00

33118-05U00

I'll have these parts in about 4 weeks.

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I know I sent some PM's here is my situation. When I install the main shaft and torque down the nut (166-239 FP) I can tighten to only 150fp and the pressure flange is compressed to where the pressure flange rods that enter the drum are 1/2 -3/4 preloaded. This keeps me from installing the snap ring ( I can install the snap ring but I will have no clearance).

I've taken this apart a few times and the next thing I will be looking at is the clutch drum and speedo gear installed completely. Dp these need to be pushed on more, I thoought I had this pushed on as far as it would go but will be checking.

Should the clutch hub have play a little over 1/3 of an inch of travel up and down the shaft?

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Well all seals arrived and I finished putting her back together today. You have to be carefull with the withdrawel lever if its not in the right spot it will make assembly impossible.

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Just on a side note it has been reported that the GTR transfer case has 6 lugs/pins pushing the clutch packs together while the Stagea (and possibly GTS4) has only 4 and might be lighter duty in other respects. Does your transfer case have the 6 lugs?

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actually there's 8. here's a pic, you can see the marks on the pressure plate. Wow that's been a while Ed, all sorted?

post-48345-0-50846000-1303552121_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for that .Maybe its 8 for the GTR and six for the others.

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actually there's 8. here's a pic, you can see the marks on the pressure plate. Wow that's been a while Ed, all sorted?

Yes it has and shes all back together and ready to go back in the car after being mated to an OS tranny. You were absolutely correct about the thrust washer and ring being a pain. I used grease to hold them together while I assebled everything. The thrust washer and ring are also different for the 32 and 33 transfer case. Clearances worked out everything is looking good. I also had trouble with the withdrawel lever linning up, I ended up taking the actuator assy out while I lined up the lever to insert the main shaft and then reinstall the actuator, that took a couple of assemblies to figure out. Yes it was assembled and dissassembled a few times.

I went through this TC because someone had put Red Line Shockproof oil in the TC, I wanted to make sure it was good to go. I would suggest to anyone to not put that thick oil in the TC as it will clog the screen, the holes for feeding the oil from the pump will also clog or flow extremly slow. That oil could possibly even damage the pump.

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