Jump to content
SAU Community

This is why I like the 15 year import rule


NXTIME
 Share

Recommended Posts

R34 GTR's can be bought for as little as 40K AUD which will see them cost about 65K on the road in Aus. But don't expect them to be in pristine condition and normally with as much as 80K on them. There are one or two V spec's with good k's for 45K.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's another modified R32 GTR:

SPECS:

- GENUINE N1 GTR with NEW paint, NO accident history and in excellent condition both inside and out.

1990 Factory N1 GTR Skyline

· 0 kms since full tune

· HKS 2.8L kit full tune

· Complete HKS engine internals (piston, conrods, Hi-cam 280 inl / exh)

· HKS Special T51R ball bearing turbo assembly

· Special surge tank, throttle body and custom adaptor plate

· HKS fuel delivery

· Twin Bosch fuel pumps

· 1000cc injectors

· APEXi Power FC

· Oil cooler

· HKS transmission cooler

· HKS intercooler

· SBC Boost controller

· Full range of meters

· Digital race meter / speedo ($3,000 alone)

· ALCON 4 pod, 8 piston front and rear brakes

· QUANTUM full racing suspension

· HKS 6 speed racing gearbox (worth $15,000 alone)

· OGURA heavy duty triple plate clutch

· WORK Meister 2 piece special gold 18 inch racing alloys

· Carbon fibre bonnet, front lip spoiler and rear diffuser

· New R34 GTR racing seats

· New full specialist re-spray in Nissan midnight purple

The car has literally just been completed recently with a very extensive list of modifications. It is probably one of the fastest street GTR's in Japan at present with some impressive tuning work done by one of the top tuning shops in Japan. Power rating would be between 800 to 1000 HP depending on the level of boost which should is technically capable of running a 9 second quarter mile time with the 6 speed HKS gearbox.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest INASNT

Cars like those 2 gtr would only be good as a second car if u raced it or something. It would be a waste of time to have it as a daily driver

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Timing map only tells part of the story, I've seen a few cars where the CAS has been adjusted so you might see 12 at the ECU but at the motor you could be seeing 8 kind of thing. A S15 I converted from PowerFC to Nistune had just that, CAS was turned back to have less timing than the ignition map itself lol... "Choonered".
    • But your running 1.6 bar of boost, is it still 12 degrees of timing at 1.6 bar of boost? Also, is there e85 fuel at the petrol stations in Dubai?
    • swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar swaybar anyway OP, what is currently in your car, are they factory shocks and sway bar? Any sign anything else has been changed under there over the years? And as Murray said....what are effect you looking to change
    • Congratulations on your find  Did you mean it has 6k miles or was that a typo? Firstly, keep in mind some movement of the shifter is normal...it is a long rod hanging out of a box bolted to the engine. Having said that there are 2 next places to look: 1. Transmission and engine mounts. If these are worn or broken the shifter will move around more. They are reasonably easy to source and replace on a hoist, and possible but uncomfortable to replace car stands 2. On the bottom of the shifter there is a nylon cup that sits over shifter's ball end. If this is worn or broken the shifter will move around more than it should (but will still shift OK). That is a cheap part and requires removal of centre console, rubber shifter hole covers and a circlip in the gearbox shifter hole to remove the shifter. Re maintenance, as with any new import you should change all the fluids including transmission when you get it; never trust the seller and previous owners to have done the right thing. I am pretty sure R34 GTT is the same as earlier big box transmissions, so use any good quality GL4 75w90 trans fluid if it is shifting well (if it is hard to shift due to synchro wear, redline shockproof lightweight will keep it alive a bit longer before rebuild is required)
×
×
  • Create New...