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Diy - V35 Door Lock Actuator / Power Window Removal


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Introduction

I'm sure I am not the only one who has either power window motor / regulator and/or door lock problem on their V35. Although parts are relatively not too expensive from Nissan (e.g. $200-300ish) the thought of pulling apart such a nice car can be daunting to some...

So I have problem with my passenger side door lock actuator and decided to tackle it myself. This DIY can be used for those who need to get onto their power window motor as well, although I didn't explain much about removing the power window motor from the regulator assy, but I'm sure if you've gotten that far, the rest should be easy breezy for you.

What you need:

Tools

- Flathead screwdriver

- 10mm Socket (A few variations where you can have long extension can be handy)

- 12mm Socket

- Torx T30 (star * shape)

Parts

- Genuine Nissan Door Lock Actuator.

- V35 Coupe Left: 80501-AM81A

- V35 Coupe Right: 80500-AM81A

- V35 Sedan - please ask I can find out from NISSAN FAST

Time Required

- Approximately 4-5 hours. I got stuck a few times trying to remove the last bit near the handle part, and having lots of trial and error when putting it back on and realigning the regulator frame. If you have done this once I believe it can be re-done in 2-3 hours.

Note: This DIY is written up to my best knowledge to include all steps necessary to get to the door lock actuator. If you are not game enough with handymen tools, or are short tempered, DO NOT try this by yourself and seek professional help and pay the money. I am not responsible for any damages and/or injuries to any vehicle, property, or any person resulting from following this DIY. Follow this at your own risk, these are not an easy peasy job - you have been warned!

Steps:

Step 1. Pop off power window panel using flathead screwdriver

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Step 2. Using flathead screwdriver, unclip switch harness

25653_439545709568_598034568_5306250_2428207_n.jpg

Step 3 - Using flat head screwdriver pop bottom side of grip cover

25653_439545719568_598034568_5306252_2573113_n.jpg

Step 4 - Pop rest of grip cover off, removing it from the catches on both sides gently - CAUTION these are fragile!

25653_439545724568_598034568_5306253_1600690_n.jpg

Note: if you break it, turn over to see the replacement part number: Left Side Coupe: 80945-AM800. Right Side Coupe: 80944-AM800. Sedan (please ask - I can check via NISSAN FAST)

25653_439545714568_598034568_5306251_2456774_n.jpg

Step 5 - Grip cover off, remove 2 bolts on the grip handle with 10mm socket.

25653_439545729568_598034568_5306254_5025453_n.jpg

Note: you may find the bottom one is quite deep to reach, you can use a long phillips head or an extension to the 10mm socket.

Step 6 - Using Flathead screwdriver, gently remove the square panel off the door latch

25653_439545734568_598034568_5306255_1046455_n.jpg

Step 7 - Keep the cover somewhere safe

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Step 8 - Remove bolt using 10mm socket

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Step 9 - Look underneath door, insert flathead screwdriver and wedge it off, pop off the rest of the clips from underneath and side of door trim upwards.

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Step 10 - Lift up door trim, it should lift up easily

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Step 11 - Lift up and remove - gently towards the front near the mirror.

25653_439545759568_598034568_5306260_963368_n.jpg

Note: notice the catch there where you need to hook it back when you put the door trim back on

25653_439545764568_598034568_5306261_2548530_n.jpg

Step 12 - To be able to remove door trim completely, unhook courtesy light (if you have the option installed) towards bottom of the trim

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Step 13 - courtesy light harness off (small plug)

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Step 14 - Look behind the door latch, note 2 cable catches, twist out the cable mount to dislodge.

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Step 15 - Unhook the cables from the latch mount

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Step 16 - Lock cables off - door trim can be removed completely.

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Step 17 - Door trim off - keep somewhere safe.

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Step 18 - Unhook power window harness using flathead screwdriver

25653_439545799568_598034568_5306268_4236607_n.jpg

Step 19 - Remove bolts around the metal door panel:

a) 12 x 10mm dark bolts that holds the metal door panel

b) 3 x 10mm brass bolts that holds the power window motor in the middle

c) 2 x 10mm brass bolts with washers that holds the window regulator upper part

d) 2 x 12mm bolts with washers that holds the window regulator bottom part.

25653_439545804568_598034568_5306269_6652854_n.jpg

Step 20 - pop the window regulator white plastic clip off (remember this when putting the metal door panel back on). This ensure the window regulator cable stay near the door panel and don't get caught in up/down movement of the window. Easiest to use flat head screwdriver to push both side of the clips and it can be pushed inside.

25653_439545809568_598034568_5306270_5451766_n.jpg

Step 21 - From behind the door metal panel, pop off the 2 clips that holds the window motor harness.

25653_439545814568_598034568_5306271_7484089_n.jpg

Step 22 - Locate on the front of the door, one big round plastic cap. Gently push from behind the door metal panel - this is hold by kind of sticky material.

25653_439545819568_598034568_5306272_1018238_n.jpg

Step 23 - Keep cover somewhere safe

25653_439545824568_598034568_5306273_3741004_n.jpg

Step 24 - Towards the back of the door, pop the other 2 offs near the bottom of the door

25653_439545829568_598034568_5306274_1849808_n.jpg

Step 25 - You may want to reconnect the window motor harness and the power window switch temporarily. Wind down the window glass so the bolts align to the holes. Once it's aligned, disconnect the motor harness and window switch.

Look through the hole and loosen the bolts using 10mm socket. I found when putting this back on together it's a good idea to have these bolts on but not tight, because it helps you to rejig the window regulator frame back to its original mount.

25653_439545834568_598034568_5306275_3222198_n.jpg

Step 26 - Push window motor harness through the groumet. Remove the door metal panel (use flat head screwdriver to pry it open, metal door panel has kind of sticky material around it. The window regulator clip should also been popped off.

25653_439545839568_598034568_5306276_5655855_n.jpg

Step 27 - Unclip the power window swith harness clip once metal door panel is off, because it's easier to push the clip from behind the metal panel.

25653_439545844568_598034568_5306277_4737081_n.jpg

Step 28 - Gently pry the metal door panel (there's some kind of sticky material around it). Becareful with the lock cable at the back of the door when you pry it open, move it out of the way at the same time.

25653_439545849568_598034568_5306278_422007_n.jpg

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Step 29 - Metal door panel off - Now you can remove the 3 bolts that holds down the glass using 10mm socket.

25653_439545854568_598034568_5306279_2165795_n.jpg

Step 30 - Pull out the glass and put somewhere safe! Make sure you don't put it somewhere where it would fall off or got accidentally step on or you dropped your tools on it... Don't break this!

25653_439545859568_598034568_5306280_2133279_n.jpg

Step 31 - Remove the regulator frame assembly, these is kind of fiddly to put back on but with patience you can gently find its way back in later.

25653_439545869568_598034568_5306281_7794582_n.jpg

NOTE: If you are only after removing the power window motor or window regulator, you do not need to continue. The rest of the steps are for people who need to get to the door lock actuator!

Step 32 - Unclip the upper cable clip that holds the door lock harness wiring. The bottom one is optional, I found the top one is enough to give me some leeway to manouver the door lock actuator.

25653_439545874568_598034568_5306282_7930343_n.jpg

Step 33 - Clip is off. Lock actuator wiring cable should now be loose and about.

25653_439545879568_598034568_5306283_4917939_n.jpg

Step 34 - Look inside you'll spot like a hoop/loop. Unhook the loop from the hook.

25653_439545884568_598034568_5306284_6719697_n.jpg

Step 35 - Now you need a Torx T30 * pattern screwdriver.

25653_439545889568_598034568_5306285_57678_n.jpg

Step 36 - Using the Torx tool, remove the screw that holds the door handle lock.

25653_439545894568_598034568_5306286_6094826_n.jpg

Step 37 - Remove rubber cap on the door jamb.

25653_439545899568_598034568_5306287_5110699_n.jpg

Step 38 - Locate another Torx screw, loosen. The design is made that this bolt won't drop, so just let it loosen.

25653_439545904568_598034568_5306288_7702228_n.jpg

Step 39 - Wiggle the door handle finisher out of its place.

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Step 40 - Remove the door handle assembly from inside the door. When it's off carefully check that the nut where the first Torx screw bolts on to does not fall out. If it does, simply put this back into position.

25653_439545914568_598034568_5306290_3214612_n.jpg

Note: This is the hex bolt I'm talking about - this can easily fall out into the door. Simply put it back in place.

25653_439554769568_598034568_5306725_6034561_n.jpg

Step 41 - Upon removing, note where the door handle catches the assembly is, this is where it catches and when you put this back on, it needs to be as it was.

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Step 42 - Door handle assembly off.

25653_439545934568_598034568_5306292_2400010_n.jpg

Step 43 - Exterior door handle can be left there hanging.

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Step 44 - Look behind the door handle assy and note where the handle cable hooks.

25653_439545954568_598034568_5306294_2934904_n.jpg

Step 45 - Turn upwards to unhook it. Then remove the ball end.

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Step 46 - Door handle assy can now be removed and put away safely.

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Step 47 - Loosen 3 Torx bolt that holds down the lock actuator.

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Step 48 - Unplug the plastic mount

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Step 49 - Manouver the lock actuator out of the door shell. (It's a bit tight but possible)

25653_439545979568_598034568_5306299_8058004_n.jpg

Step 50 - Using flat head screwdriver, lift up the hook on the harness plug and unplug. Replace lock actuator with new parts from Nissan, V35 Coupe Left side part no: 80501-AM81A, V35 Couple Right side part no: 80500-AM81A. Sedans - please ask I can find out for you from NISSAN FAST.

25653_439545984568_598034568_5306300_5699522_n.jpg

Step 51 - ALL DONE! To put it all back together just reverse the steps one by one.

Handy Tips:

- Removing/Fitting Glass - It may help if you have 2 persons, one holding the glass while you adjust the position to the bolts, but not compulsory. I did it all by myself.

- Adjusting the window regulator back to its position - It helps that you wind the window halfway up/down and after you hook up the glass bolts, just leave it not too tight, so you can use the window glass to move the frame around to get it aligned back to the bolt holes on the door. This require some tricky manouver but with patience can be done. IT helps to pop off some plastic cover as you can use this to align the glass bolts so you can tighten it later after the window frames are bolted back on.

- Coupe window auto-seal. I found if window auto seal when door open/closes gets stuffed - it's usually because the window glass bolts aren't tight enough, so when the regulator winds the glass up to the top and drop down a bit, the glass doesn't drop back. Re-check the 3 glass bolts that they are tight but do not use powertool as you don't want to overtighten it causing the glass to crack. I found the door sensor switch (near the latch) is useful for me to test while the window is fully up, by pressing the switch on off and check if the glass moves up and down a bit for that sealing action.

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Thank's Chris...

I still cannot crack out the fragile grip plastic cover (in Step 3) using flathead screwdriver cleanly, no matter what I did I still stuff up the bottom part of that plastic grip cover. It seems both mine (old scratched one, and current replacement one) are clipped very tight around the side catches. Lucky since it's at the bottom they're not very visible...

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wow awesome help there, Thanks Rianto... ill try and follow your steps.

also i need urgent help, my door handle has stuffed up some how today.. its gone loose outside but it does stil work..... ill snap a pic soon... how do i get inside of this? or whats the best way for me to get underneath this door handle? is it near your process of opening it up? :action-smiley-069:

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rianto and chris are the perfect match to make a book for v35...

V35/G35 Complete Workshop Manual

c'mon guys! what do you need? publisher?

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Although parts are relatively not too expensive from Nissan (e.g. $200-300ish)

I found this the only inacuracy if replacing the window motor is included in that statement.

I was quoted over $600AUD from Nissan australia. Part only, no installation!!!!!

PS nice DIY btw

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I found this the only inacuracy if replacing the window motor is included in that statement.

I was quoted over $600AUD from Nissan australia. Part only, no installation!!!!!

PS nice DIY btw

You have been taken for a ride.

Call City Nissan Melbourne - I found their price is a lot cheaper. At least that's what they told me - $340 I think from memory.

Google it.

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Sorry - I was referring to LOCK ACTUATOR.

I had no idea of WINDOW MOTOR prices because my problem was the lock actuator not the power windows.

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rianto and chris are the perfect match to make a book for v35...

V35/G35 Complete Workshop Manual

c'mon guys! what do you need? publisher?

There is already a company planning to do this...

Go to www.jpnz.co.nz

register your interest for english translation of V35 Skyline Repair Manual.

They do have G35 in USA but it would be nice to have a right hand drive V35 service manual instead of the US version, particularly when working around the interior.

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alright sorry for not re-reading when i asked about my question.. to be honest i panicked when my door handle was loose.. so i msged via mobile phone right away without the pics loading.. so anyway thanks again for you guide rianto.. i got the job done easily thanks to your picures, 2 of my friends came over and helped or more like supervised lol.

first thing was that, i was puzzled that the only thing that is holding the bracket (the 1 that holds the glass) is the actual 2nd layer cover with full of bolts on as pic 20 shows, but i guess that how most of the cars is made today i pressumed..i had a little trouble when i have put everything back on it felt like the glass was struggling to go up but not when it was going down when i tested.. so i had to re-do the 2nd cover. Bolt-off, bolt-on.. looks like the aligning of the bracket needed to be exact, you cant have the screw struggle when fitting in but rather smoothly. Anyway guess thats a tip for everyone who tries it.. make sure that the bracket aligns perfectly for the glass to move up and down nicely..

05042010093.jpg

LOL sorry it does looks scary but yeh everything was cool as im not putting pressure on anything here, i just had to put everything down.

05042010094.jpg

Thanks again Rianto.

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alright sorry for not re-reading when i asked about my question.. to be honest i panicked when my door handle was loose.. so i msged via mobile phone right away without the pics loading.. so anyway thanks again for you guide rianto.. i got the job done easily thanks to your picures, 2 of my friends came over and helped or more like supervised lol.

first thing was that, i was puzzled that the only thing that is holding the bracket (the 1 that holds the glass) is the actual 2nd layer cover with full of bolts on as pic 20 shows, but i guess that how most of the cars is made today i pressumed..i had a little trouble when i have put everything back on it felt like the glass was struggling to go up but not when it was going down when i tested.. so i had to re-do the 2nd cover. Bolt-off, bolt-on.. looks like the aligning of the bracket needed to be exact, you cant have the screw struggle when fitting in but rather smoothly. Anyway guess thats a tip for everyone who tries it.. make sure that the bracket aligns perfectly for the glass to move up and down nicely..

05042010093.jpg

LOL sorry it does looks scary but yeh everything was cool as im not putting pressure on anything here, i just had to put everything down.

05042010094.jpg

Thanks again Rianto.

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Glad you sorted it out! Glad to help :-)

YEah the window regulator/frame needs to be exact, that's why I suggested to pop off the 3 round covers on the metal skin (2nd layer cover) so you can just loosen the glass bolt but not take the bolt off, and you can use it to manouver the frame into position without adding tension onto the whole thing. once the frame is in position and you've put the bolts on the frame bolted back to the 2nd layer metal cover then you retighten all the 3 glass bolts. wound it all up, until it all goes into the most upright position, press the door sensor so it 'seals' up, then release, push down the glass then retighten all the bolts that holds the glass, I found that solves the window glass seal problem.

I have seen a few other V35 where the glass won't drop when door is open, my suspect now, after doing this, is the glass bolts were a bit loose, those cars may have had their power window motor previously replaced or refurbished before the owner bought it (it was a dealer's car).

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Glad you sorted it out! Glad to help :-)

YEah the window regulator/frame needs to be exact, that's why I suggested to pop off the 3 round covers on the metal skin (2nd layer cover) so you can just loosen the glass bolt but not take the bolt off, and you can use it to manouver the frame into position without adding tension onto the whole thing. once the frame is in position and you've put the bolts on the frame bolted back to the 2nd layer metal cover then you retighten all the 3 glass bolts. wound it all up, until it all goes into the most upright position, press the door sensor so it 'seals' up, then release, push down the glass then retighten all the bolts that holds the glass, I found that solves the window glass seal problem.

I have seen a few other V35 where the glass won't drop when door is open, my suspect now, after doing this, is the glass bolts were a bit loose, those cars may have had their power window motor previously replaced or refurbished before the owner bought it (it was a dealer's car).

Great DiY!

For as long as I've had my V35, every time I close the Drivers side Door there is a little rattle-sound that isn't on the passengers side.

Also when I drive with the window all the way down and go over a bump, I hear the rattle again.

I'm confident if I follow your DiY I'll eventually find the reason behind this, I'm just wondering if you know what I should be looking out for?

A Nissan guy down the road suspected the *track* might be loose? but they wanted $170 just to take a look at it..

Any Tips? Greatly appreciated in advanced.. :D

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Great DiY!

For as long as I've had my V35, every time I close the Drivers side Door there is a little rattle-sound that isn't on the passengers side.

Also when I drive with the window all the way down and go over a bump, I hear the rattle again.

I'm confident if I follow your DiY I'll eventually find the reason behind this, I'm just wondering if you know what I should be looking out for?

A Nissan guy down the road suspected the *track* might be loose? but they wanted $170 just to take a look at it..

Any Tips? Greatly appreciated in advanced.. :ermm:

i have the same rattle on my driver's side door

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks for the write up Rianto its going to come in handy now for me :cheers:

$152 for the lock actuator here :banana:

left door: http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=80501-AM81A

Right door: http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=80500-AM81A

edit: can someone sticky this thread its a pretty common problem on 350 GT's and seems very helpful.

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