Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register

Removing Entire Dash - HOWTO


Recommended Posts

Before you begin


Nothing worse than starting a job and not having everything you need onhand before you begin! So therefore you will definitely need:

1x Socket set (and ratchet), with 10mm and 12mm sockets (most are 10mm)

1x long socket extender - definitely recommended. Makes thing *much* easier in spots, increased leverage to get stubborn bolts undone as well.

1x stumpy philips head - for the tight spaces and general screws

1x long philips head - when you need to get to a screw with a long reach

1x flat head - mainly for helping to pop stuff out.

1x adjustable wrench - for stubborn nuts, etc

1x water! :( Hard work, on a hot day can take a lot out of you, and this can be about a 6hour job (depending on whether you have done it before). Took me about 6 hours to get to the heater core, which is why i pulled it apart in the first place.

Before you begin tackling the main dash: Follow Pushead's guide to get the front facia off... here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=31182

Then continue onto this one :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Gearshift Surround


1. Unscrew shiftknob, remove ashtray, and undo 2x screws behind. Rest is just clips. Unclip out:

2. Undo top facia screws. Lower scews connecting to centre console also need to be removed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stereo removal


1. Undo top facia screws. Lower scews connecting to centre console also need to be removed.

2. Remove bottom four screws shown above to remove head unit. The whole bracket should slideout. Disconnect all connections to face unit. Fiddle with or replace stereo as necessary :(

then move onto...

Climate Control box


1. Remove top 2x screws in last pic after stereo has been removed. Unplug 2x plugs on back to remove control box completely.

mmmm...spaghetti! Its not quite as bad as it looks (really!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glovebox Removal


1. Remove glovebox assembly, undo red circled screws and unclip green circled clips.

Trickiest one is the one bottom right, which you'll have to do with the glovebox open, and using a long philips head to get in there.

2. After that you'll have to kind of pop the clips out which attach to the upper part of the dashboard. I snapped one because its hard to do it without doing that but superglue will fix it.

3. You will need to undo the catch screws, as these also hold it in.

4. Carefully remove entire assembly and set aside.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Below Steering wheel


1. Remove the bonnet popper. 2x screws as shown in pic #1.. should drop down as shown. Don't worry, won't spring back - can still pop the bonnet if needed at any time like that.

2. Remove screws as shown in pic #2. Unclip from position shown, breaking clips in process :( If they do like mine, just glue back up with superglue. Once you remove the plastic it should look like in pic #2)

3. Remove screw on right for main dash (pic #3)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RHS footwell plastic


This is just to your left leg. Remove screws as shown, and drop down, or just remove if you don't have turbo timers, etc attached :(

A-pillar covers


1. Drivers side is easy, as no handle to be unscrewed first. Unclip clips shown (pretty stubborn). May have to pop out the first bit of the quarter window plastic it sits under.

2. Remove a-pillar cover. Kind of sliding it out from where it meets the dash.

3. Do passenger side same, except you'll have to remove handle (2x screws under plastic caps). Use flat head to pop off caps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Top vents and Sun sensor


1. Use a flat head (as shown) to pop out the RHS vent

2. Reach out under the dash and popout the sun sensor. Disconnect it from its connector

3. This should make removal of the LHS vent easy. Which should now pop out.

4. Take random pick of surroundings (optional) :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dash main


Ok, here comes the final removal of the dash.

1. Remove steering wheel (if not done already). Mine was nice and simple, good ol' momo!

2. Remove top two screwbolts. Best to use a socket extender at angle into sunsensor hole, and corresponding hole on RHS.

3. Remove screws from bottom RHS and bottom LHS of dash, if not already

4. Remove centre nut (just above steering wheel)

You may also have to slip your car into 4th gear or so to get the gearshift out of the way to help you get the dash structure out.

This is it for the disassembly! Now to get that big chunk of plastic out...

5. Slowly remove entire dash by pulling forward, checking for any screws still holding it in that may have been left.

6. Angle up and I think its easiest to manuveur whole dash through passenger side. I managed to lift it out by myself without damage, but a helping hand could make it much easier. It weights about 8kg.

7. Stare in wonder with what lies beneath (last photo) :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So that is pretty much it!

Reassembly is a reversal of the above process (i've always wanted to say that :()

Removing the full dash will allow you to get at a few useful things: main fan, airconditioning cooler, heater (and heater radiator) and the loom that goes through to the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice thread this will get stickied. More people should take the time to do this! Well done. I always carry out complex repairs and wish i had got snap happy in the process!! however the how to install remote start paging alarms with boot release central locking , window roll up, sunroof closure etc etc would take way too long and give me nothing to do as a result!!! Keep up the good work! :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jay95R33: it looks worse than it is in the photo, plugs going everywhere - but generally a plug will only fit the one socket so its hard to get it mixed up putting all back together.

Autotrust: lol - i guess if you do it all the time like you it becomes 2nd nature. Still, there will always be a market for people to get others to do this sort of thing. I mean it takes hours, and unless you're really keen - who really does want to pull apart their car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

yeh i would imagine it is aye, i gotta pull my whole dash off, as well as the heater and all that other shit that you saw after he took the dash off, THEN put it all back on again, and i mean everything has to come off and come back on :s will let you all know how i go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm not sure if this helps or not. I recently upgraded to R34 Vspec2 Brembo's on the S2 Stag. I used this braided kit: https://safebrake.biz/home/292-skyline-gt-r-r34-awd-26tt-brake-upgrade-safebrake-performance-hoses.html Beyond this I got the R33gtr front brake hard lines, that go over axle hub just behind the dust plate and all lined up beautifully.  The braided lines were same length as the stock ones. Needed to buy 2x longer bolts for one of the hard mount points for the braided hoses up the front. Trim rear dust shields so could fit 322mm discs. It's a pretty straight forward job.
    • Hi All, Just wondering if anyone has changed their stock front upper /  inner control arm bushes for nolathane and has any advice on doing so? See pic circled in red with the bushes im referring to. Can I do it myself? ie. with an air chisel and a suitable sized/diameter socket on the end. Or is it a hydraulic press job? I've already done the outside bushes, the originals popped of easy with the air chisel as they had a little lip to get some purchase on. Cheers, Pete    
    • Mate, great looking R33!  It's not too late to go European and spend your days talking about how you went from v1.01 to v1.03 of your Stage 1.5 tune and now you can bake off the line holding your chai latte without spillage. 🥲 I feel you're at the point of no return now, brace yourself!  
    • I have a Toyota Estima hybrid AHR20 2013. The diffrential arm bushing need replacing. The OEM differential arm part number is 52380-28050. Please let me know if you know anyone who can supply or supply and install the differential arm bushing. I have asked Febest Auto Parts, Auto-Parts and Auto Plus Parts, without any luck. Thank you in advance for any relevant information.  
    • There's a guy that calls himself Boosted International. You're able to request non standard designs off him too. That cost me $67 delivered so not bhed.. https://boostedintl.com/product/r33-gtst-gts-gtr-ashtray-gaugeholder/  
  • Create New...