Hi, Wat Is The Type Of Original Turbo On A 97 Rs4 Rb25det Please

[RS444]

hi, wat is the type of original turbo on a 97 RS4 RB25DET please

[wolverine]

The original is a ball bearing hitachi afaik. Ceramic turbine.

Why?

[RS444]

The original is a ball bearing hitachi afaik. Ceramic turbine.

Why?

thanks for reply

1- for my personal confermation

2 - any upgrades i have a base point

3 - i was told garret

4 - there seems 2 b 3 oil conections ( i guess 2 in 1 out ?)

and was told and can c only 1 water conection (in ?), but wheres the water out ?

[QWK32]

2 oil and 2 water lines. oil in and out, water in and out. the oil in is on top of the turbo, oil drain (out) is on the bottom. and the water lines are on each side.

[RS444]

2 oil and 2 water lines. oil in and out, water in and out. the oil in is on top of the turbo, oil drain (out) is on the bottom. and the water lines are on each side.

thanku for yor knowlege

is a custom dump better than stok ,partly 4 the seperate waistgate chanel or not ?

[StealthX]

Divorced dumps are ok, good boost control when working successfully...

But vented as screamers, they sound effing shit...

The dump is a great place to start for getting more power, then finish upgrading the rest of the exhaust...

Then turn up the boost...

[QWK32]

Either a split dump pipe (with the seperate wastegate pipe), or a bellmouth dump pipe is a step up from stock. The differance in performance is really noticable. It's debateable as to weather the split dump is better than the bellmouth, I don't think you'd notice the differance on a stock turbo.

[wolverine]

the upgrade pathway is pretty well covered in the forced induction section.

simplest is a "hi-flow" of the factory turbo with all new CHRA wheels and machining in the factory housings. bolts back to all the factory gear in the factory location.

then you have a choice of various aftermarket options from Garrett, HKS (rebranded Garrett turbos with HKS specific turbine housings), and then the less common Trust, Apexi, then a few others scattered in the upgrade basket.

3" bellmouth dump and 3" cat and 3" exhaust makes for one of the cheapest upgrades with the factory turbo and a whisker more boost. The difference in performance between bellmouth and split dumps is debateable but back to back I have seen more power from a bellmouth on a 420hp turbo so based on cost alone the bellmouth makes more sense. Given the issues with boost control some end users have with split dumps then I would stick with the bellmouth.

ps. The factory turbo on the RB25DET is not a garrett unit. RB26 are garrett turbos.

[RS444]

the upgrade pathway is pretty well covered in the forced induction section.

simplest is a "hi-flow" of the factory turbo with all new CHRA wheels and machining in the factory housings. bolts back to all the factory gear in the factory location.

THANKS HEAPS, ALSO ALL MY ENGINE IS ORIGINAL STOK SO HOW DO I TURN UP THE BOOST ?

[StealthX]

The factory turbo on the RB25DET is not a garrett unit.

All factory Nissan turbos were either made by IHI, or Aireasearch (a division of Garrett), and I'm certain that they are Aireasearch (or genuine Garrett) on RB, CA, SR, FJ and VG/some early VQ engines. The rest (new VQ, VR and some others) are made by IHI.

THANKS HEAPS, ALSO ALL MY ENGINE IS ORIGINAL STOK SO HOW DO I TURN UP THE BOOST ?

You'll need a boost controller for this. I don't know how the factory boost solenoid works, I've never owned an RB so I can't help ion that regard. What I'd recommend doing is getting a manual boost controller and plumbing that in, they are simple things that bleed off air to a specific boost pressure, so that the wastegate opens at a higher pressure, giving you more boost. I wouldn't recommend going over 3-4psi above a stock tune - from factory they run 7psi I think (not sure if Stags are different from skylines). The stock ceramic turbos are only good for about 12-14psi, even then that's too big of an increase. When you are running more boost, you need to have the engine tuned to compensate, i.e. more fuel for the increased amount of air. If you run too much more boost with out a tune to match, its very dangerous for your engine. That said, (someone else will have to confirm this) I'd say 3-4psi over stock would be fine, so about 10-11psi, and should give you a healthy increase of power.

Look into getting a manual boost controller(<$100), the instructions that come with them are usually pretty good. But if you are unsure, I'd suggest you get a workshop to install/adjust if for you, 'cos it's dangerous stuff to be messing with if you don't know what you're doing - and no offense intended, but it sounds like you're just starting to play around with turbos and engine tuning...

Good luck mate!

[RS444]

no worries, thanks 4 that.

-just starting to play around with turbos and engine tuning...

Good luck mate!

[KiwiRS4T]

THANKS HEAPS, ALSO ALL MY ENGINE IS ORIGINAL STOK SO HOW DO I TURN UP THE BOOST ?

By bypassing the stock boost solenoid and following the instructions as per SKs post (read post#37 & #40):

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20

and do not exceed 10 - 12 psi.

For best results get a good electronic boost controller and for your education go to the begining of the Jaycar thread and read as much as you can!