Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


1989/1990 R32 GTR Advice


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I am seriously considering getting an r32 GTR from japan, either a 1989/1990 under the 15 year import rule.

Is there any advice I should know of before I actually consider this as a viable option. I will going for a bank loan and getting it asap so that I can get it paid up and secured before the import laws change again and I'm left with no option to get one.

Has anyone else gone down this path and had good/bad experiences?

I understand the car 15 years old and I am willing to put some work/$$$ into to ensure its relability etc, it will be a weekend/fun car as Ill have a stokie daily driver also.

Also this probably sounds a little "stupid" but does anyone have full comp on an r32 gtr under 25? :) if so who is the insurer and how much? I dont think there would be many but ill ask anyway :cheers:

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you search the forum recently there have been many posts on the same topic.

Good luck with the car :)

Ok I've searched, as I did before and found some information, albeit not exactly what I was after but anyway. Does anyone have full comp on an r32 gtr and being under 25 years of age?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It cant be a secured bank loan as its an imported car. Its an unsecured personal loan.

I'll be able to pay most of the loan off within the first year, I just wanna get the loan now and pay for it vs saving for a year and having the import laws changing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on how much you want to borrow, it can be difficult. When i went to the major banks, their maximum for an unsecured loan was $20k - this was a personal loan.

If you want a "car loan" (or secured loan, the security being the car) as opposed to a personal loan, its more difficult as they enforce various rules such as car must be under 8 years old (can vary), must be fully insured, and often they want to know which car you are getting, *before* they will give you the money. Basically, they want to be able to sell the car if you default at auction quickly and easily (happens a fair bit).. a GTR wouldn't really fit that bucket unfortunately so to them its just a hassle to finance something like that.

You may have to actually raise the first payment (for the car in japan), before they will fund the rest. Its a hard one, and i know people that have difficulty. They want proof of the car purchase (deposit or the like), and often how can you place down the money, unless you have the loan approved??

In general, the longer the loan term, the more likely they are going to give it to you, and the obvious finance checks. It will also depend on what you wanna do with the GTS-T (sell it for $, sell it and payout the old loan if you have one, keep it as security on the GTR, etc). Depends also how long you have been paying off the current car (if its still on loan), or any previous loans as to how willing they'll be to give you a loan for something more expensive.

Too many factors to list here, often you are best to just ring around, or even better, try and organise a meeting with a loans approval officer at a bank or whatever and discuss your options.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks pred.

Well It will be a 20k unsecured loan which is OK with me. Hopefully have most of it paid off by the end of this year, just wanna get in before dotars change stuff and make it like 18 years or something stupid. Wish me luck :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah it tought it would have been insane pricing.

OK What about third party fire/theft but to market value? I'll be keeping it in the garage vs driving it and just want to be sure if it get flogged from the garage or house catches on fire then its insured. Too unrealistic? Any ideas there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just Cars recently quoted me $2600 for an 89 GTR (Getting it under the old 15 year ruling...OCT cuttoff :rofl:). Famous Classic quoted $2800 which is the one I'll probably get because I can choose my repairer and pay by the month. The quotes are about a month old and I'll be getting my car in February.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah it tought it would have been insane pricing.  

OK What about third party fire/theft but to market value? I'll be keeping it in the garage vs driving it and just want to be sure if it get flogged from the garage or house catches on fire then its insured. Too unrealistic? Any ideas there?

Sorry but i dont think you will find an insurance company that will give third party fire and theft up to market value. The max is usally $5000, and you would be paying up to $1000 excess anyway, plus ur premium.

Pay for comprehensive, or go without insurance. Which is crazy, especially seeing you will be borrowing almost the entire value of the car from the bank. What happens if you crash? Youre'stuck paying it off and you still dont have a car. :thumbdwn:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah ill be going thru risbey for sure. Thanks for the advice guys - I'm still very keen to secure an r32 gtr before dotars change it all then ill be forced to get a one already in aus and pay much more.

SEVS wont let u compile r32's or r34's. Is this still the case?

Well there aren't any workshops with permits to compliance them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • The springs just lets the valve bleed off pressure/oil and it bypasses the feed gallery and heads back to where the pickup feed is On the LS the oil gets the the bearings...eventually  This vid explains the OEM pump well IRT the pressure release valve and how the bypass works The oil pressure light coming on intamitantly could just be a sticky valve, but, why pull something apart and not put something better in  I believe the low oil pressure light comes on somewhere between 5-10 psi Well will stick a gauge in after the installation to see what difference it makes at hot idle and higher RPM, and by high RPM I mean 6300 RPM.....LOL
    • My bottom end was rebuilt... so I think it's standard? Or refreshed.. standard? I didn't do it - I bought it with a lot of receipts but it has new bearings, new pump and was re-assembled. Apparently I have the standard flow, standard pressure pump. I did notice the oil pressure for a LS at idle is quite low, but not critically bad, I am happy that it's at about 28psi now (that my gauges work/don't leak). I would have probably specced the high pressure one, but I'll admit my ignorance after making my other post, I don't see how the pressure spring changes things. Given the pressure is a resistance to flow... high flow should also = high pressure, and your oil pump specifications should be dictated by how the engine is built (hence the sincere thankyou video man)
    • my first time on the track, just after getting the 32. tyres were 3yr old NT01's, rotors were cactus, pads were street pads. You can see the vibrations when I hit the brakes lol. After this is when I put new BDA rotors, Hi Temp Brake fluid and Intima type 2 pads. Wow what a difference
    • I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder. 
    • Which one do you use? Your bottom end is still standard isn't it?
×
×
  • Create New...