Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got the standard rb20 plumback bov on my rb25 (r32 with 25det and highflow) but its just way too loud even on 10psi, sounds like a stupid aftermarket hks gay one.

I was considering putting a gasket with a very small hole on the bov, limiting how fast it can vent the air to try and quieten it down.

I like the sound the pod makes so I don't really want to remove this, is there any easy way to keep the induction noise but quieten down the noise when you throttle off? Is my idea likely to work?

Edited by Rolls

Restricting the size of the bov orifice in an attempt to decrease the amount of air it can vent, will just cause more flutters... I don't think you'll be able to get less bov noise without also getting less induction noise (i.e. change filters).

either rb20 bov's are pretty loud or yours and my definition of loud is different, ive got a r32 gtr bov on my rb25 and i dont think its loud at all, i had an apexi dual chamber bov on there before (a fairly quiet atmo bov) and the gtr bov is much quieter.

Edited by jimmys-33T
Well it is quieter than a proper aftermarket atmo venting one, but it still is loud enough for people to look at you like a dickhead everytime it comes on boost.

Its a skyline, you automatically have hoon tattooed to your forehead when you drive it. Wear this with pride.

Its a skyline, you automatically have hoon tattooed to your forehead when you drive it. Wear this with pride.

Yeah, I used to have a 2 door HR31 and you got lots of 'wow I have never seen one of those before' looks now I just get 'wow you are a dickhead'

:D

Edited by Rolls
GTR bov will probably be quieter at 10psi, they only start to get loud when you run lots of boost. Get a GTR bov :)

What is the difference, just a stronger spring? I wonder if there is a way to open it up, would be easier if I could just preload the spring in mine with a few washers.

Made a gasket out of a coke can, cut a square hole about 1cm^2 in the middle, put it on top of the original metal gasket and did it up as tight as I could. Result was very quiet flutter and no BOV noise, the car is also much faster so I'm guessing the old one was leaking boost for whatever reason, or possibly was opening up whilst on vacuum making the turbo work harder.

Highly recommend it to people who want flutter but not annoying VL dose style, or if they want to quieten down the bov noise, I'm sure if I made the hole slightly bigger it would be even quieter again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...