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the method he's describing (with disconnecting the air bleed blug and the 5 pumps on the pedal) put the car into a diagnostic/test mode and de-pressurise the transfer case. having said that though I thought there was some physical/mechanical (not hydraulic) pre-load in the 33 transfer case but maybe it is all hydraulic and is all removed doing the procedure outlined above. haven't bothered to play with 33s enough even when I owned them.

It's all hydraulic, the problem with 33+ era is that when you pull the fuse you are just killing the computer, the pump is still supplying pressure to the transfer case.

I've even tested this method on a hoist, put it in 2WD and put it in Drive (my car is auto), the front wheels don't even budge.

I dont disagree that it doesnt work, it was more the wear if it still had preload of some sort, which i thought it still had. The hoist is the ultimate test though and if the wheels dont budge it obviously disables the transfer case totally.

I guess having worked for a workshop and being trusted with peoples pride and joy my boss didnt want to take any chances. Dropping the driveshaft was the safest way to tune the car and it totally eliminated ANY possibility of the front wheels kicking in

I dont disagree that it doesnt work, it was more the wear if it still had preload of some sort, which i thought it still had. The hoist is the ultimate test though and if the wheels dont budge it obviously disables the transfer case totally.

I guess having worked for a workshop and being trusted with peoples pride and joy my boss didnt want to take any chances. Dropping the driveshaft was the safest way to tune the car and it totally eliminated ANY possibility of the front wheels kicking in

Yeah as for working on other peoples cars, I agree with your boss for the most part.

After reading all the naysaying I was of the same opinion until one day when I was flicking through the 33GTR workshop manual and came across the short blurb about putting it in 2WD mode so I though I would give it a bash. Much to my happy surprise it worked and a big skid (single pegger :( ) ensued. So then I had to put an LSD and a switch in :laugh:

Ok ill be honest im new to this whole thing so ive not to much idea whats going on, but from the brief words i looked at it wouldnt so much be a switch to toggle 4wd and rwd just a permanent change to rwd?

i checked mine out and re soldered all the dodgy wiring and found that they cut the blue/white wire as advised, but they also cut the blue wire ???,

it still works but the wires to switch are doubled up and looping around and bridging contacts.???

to fix this would i need a new fuse box or wiring loom?

im thinking about taking it to a electrician to sort it out. how much would a electrician charge for something like this?

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Hi all.my names Owen.I have a r32 gts4 rb20det and im having a problem with my 4wd.i wired a switch to the fuse in the engine bay for rwd.it was working great for the last two years until i changed my clutch.since then its stuck in rwd and 4wd light is on in the dash.i disconected the switch and put it all back to stock and its still in rwd and the light is still on.found this thread last night and though id stick this up and see if anyone can help me.

thanks for reading.

Owen

  • 2 years later...

Hi all.my names Owen.I have a r32 gts4 rb20det and im having a problem with my 4wd.i wired a switch to the fuse in the engine bay for rwd.it was working great for the last two years until i changed my clutch.since then its stuck in rwd and 4wd light is on in the dash.i disconected the switch and put it all back to stock and its still in rwd and the light is still on.found this thread last night and though id stick this up and see if anyone can help me.

thanks for reading.

Owen

Follow this link mate to bleed up the system.

http://mobile.dudamobile.com/site/TheSkyLife?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.skylife4ever.com%2F2011%2F01%2Fbleeding-attesa.html%3Fm%3D1

Edited by MJTru
  • 5 years later...
On 01/07/2010 at 10:49 PM, Guest said:

I searched but couldn't find a write up of how to install a 4wd-RWD toggle switch on the R32. So after finding one on another forum and doing this mod myself today, I thought i'd contribute a little and write up how I did it.

It shouldn't take much longer than 20-30 minutes. If that...

I did find conflicting information about the actual fuse location. Some sources say its in the engine bay fuse box, other sources say its on the interior fuse panel.

Further research concluded to me that the engine bay fuse will remove 4wd only, while the interior fuse will remove 4wd and ABS/Anti-lock.

Tools / equipment needed:

- Phillips head screw driver

- Wire stripper / cutter

- 2 x lengths of wire for the switch (length will depend on where you put the switch, i used about 20-30cm for each wire)

- 2 x Female connectors (for the switch)

- 2 x Insulated wire connectors (to wire the switch in)

- A switch (i got mine from supercheap auto, cost about $9 but there are cheaper ones there)

1) Remove the interior driver side plastic under neath the steering wheel area.

2) Locate the fuse panel and the 4WD fuse. It will be the red 10A fuse in the top left corner.

Remove this fuse and start the car. The 4wd and Anti-lock dash lights should light up if you've taken the correct fuse out.

01072010_006.jpg

3) Turn the car off, replace the 10A fuse and remove the fuse panel. It is held in place with one screw in the left corner, and a plastic clip on the right side.

4) Behind the 4wd fuse, there is a blue wire with a white stripe. You will need to wire the switch into this wire so you can cut the circuit going to the 4wd fuse.

5) Cut the blue/white striped wire and connect one length of wire to each end. These will be wired to your switch. Connect the female connectors to the ends of these wires.

01072010_005.jpg

6) Work out the placement of the switch and run the wires to this location. I placed mine to the right of the steering wheel in one of the removable plastic bits. I had to drill a 12.5mm hole to fit the switch as per the instructions that came with it.

01072010_002.jpg

7) Connect the switch and test to see if it works. The dash lights should switch on and off and you should (i did anyway) hear an audible "woosh"... what i can only assume is the 4wd system depressurising and re-pressurising as the switch is turned on and off...(someone may need to verify this...)

8) Once you have it all working properly. Re-assemble the fuse panel and interior panels.

01072010_008.jpg

9) Enjoy :D

I hope this info is correct. Of course, feel free to correct me on anything and i'll fix it up.

Cheers,

Mark

I know this was awhile ago.....but I have 2 blue/white wires in same spot...I seen someone else posted this but never seen an answer

is there an update?

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