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How do you set up a norgren boost control system ?

jezzrrr

By jezzrrr,
in Forced Induction Performance

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jezzrrr Community Regular

jezzrrr

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Of anyone can help it would be much appreciated. Ive set the thing up as I thought it goes but doesnt work like Ive seen it explained.

Ive taken the solenoid out of the equation nut which way to wategate amd which way is from turbo compressor when looking at standard solenoid ??

confused you ?

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

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Hi Jeremy, I sent this to you in 2 X PM's but just in case anyone else wants to know. You asked about setting up the Autospeed boost control system, this is how I do it.

The Autospeed boost control system has 2 valves

One is grey, that’s the pressure relief valve, this one controls how fast the boost builds

One is black, that’s the pressure regulator, this controls the maximum boost

The black one goes closest to the wastegate actuators with the arrows pointing towards the wastegate actuators

The grey one goes between the black one and the boost supply, with the arrows pointing towards the black one. For boost supply we use the standard rubber hose from the plenum chamber.

So the order is …..

Plenum --> hose --> grey valve --> hose --> black valve --> hose --> T piece --> hoses -->wastegate actuators

I set them up by having both valves all the way open to start with. This tells me what boost pressure the wastegate actuators will hold with no valves. Should be around 8 to 9 psi (0.5 to 0.6 bar).

Then I gradually wind the black valve on, go for a drive, stop, wind it on some more, stop, wind it on some more and I do this in little steps until I get to my target boost. If you haven’t had the car tuned and are still running the standard turbos, on a GTR I would stop at 12 to 14 psi (0.9 to 1 bar).

Once I have stable boost at the level I want, I then adjust the grey valve. Now this is a bit more personal feel rather than aim for a number type of adjustment. It may take a few days of driving around until you find the speed of boost build you are comfortable with. I have ours set about half way between no valve and full one. This means I don’t get a sudden surge of boost, but I don’t get really slow boost either. Everyone likes it different, some like that nothing, nothing, full boost thing. I find it hard to drive the car fast when it jumps from 100 rwk to 300 rwkw just with a light touch of the throttle. I like a bit of progression, so I can drive it on the limit with my right foot in control.

If you go too far with the grey valve (wind it on too much) you will find that the engine holds boost after gear changes at a level higher than the boost you set with the black valve. You then need to come back until it goes up to that level and stays there. That is the fastest boost build you can have. If it’s too fast then back the grey valve off a bit until its where you like it.

Hope that helps some more

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jezzrrr Community Regular

jezzrrr

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Sydneykid,

Thanks for your detailed answer, I have PMed you. The difficulty I have (and this will sound dumb) is that I dont know which is the Plenum hose and which is the hose to the wastegate and what you mean by a T section >???/

Jeremy

Hi Jeremy, I sent this to you in 2 X PM's but just in case anyone else wants to know.  You asked about setting up the Autospeed boost control system, this is how I do it.

The Autospeed boost control system has 2 valves

One is grey, that’s the pressure relief valve, this one controls how fast the boost builds

One is black, that’s the pressure regulator, this controls the maximum boost

The black one goes closest to the wastegate actuators with the arrows pointing towards the wastegate actuators

The grey one goes between the black one and the boost supply, with the arrows pointing towards the black one.  For boost supply we use the standard rubber hose from the plenum chamber.

So the order is …..

Plenum -->  hose -->  grey valve -->  hose --> black valve --> hose --> T piece --> hoses -->wastegate actuators

I set them up by having both valves all  the way open to start with.  This tells me what boost pressure the wastegate actuators will hold with no valves. Should be around 8 to 9 psi (0.5 to 0.6 bar).

Then I gradually wind the black valve on, go for a drive, stop, wind it on some more, stop, wind it on some more and I do this in little steps until I get to my target boost.  If you haven’t had the car tuned and are still running the standard turbos, on a GTR I would stop at 12 to 14 psi (0.9 to 1 bar).  

Once I have stable boost at the level I want, I then adjust the grey valve.  Now this is a bit more personal feel rather than aim for a number type of adjustment.  It may take a few days of driving around until you find the speed of boost build you are comfortable with.  I have ours set about half way between no valve and full one.  This means I don’t get a sudden surge of boost, but I don’t get really slow boost either.  Everyone likes it different, some like that nothing, nothing, full boost thing.  I find it hard to drive the car fast when it jumps from 100 rwk to 300 rwkw just with a light touch of the throttle.  I like a bit of progression, so I can drive it on the limit with my right foot in control.

If you go too far with the grey valve (wind it on too much) you will find that the engine holds boost after gear changes at a level higher than the boost you set with the black valve.  You then need to come back until it goes up to that level and stays there.  That is the fastest boost build you can have.  If it’s too fast then back the grey valve off a bit until its where you like it.

Hope that helps some more

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  • 5 months later...
Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

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Here's another question.

I have a "Dr_Drift" bleed valve set to the right boost.

Can I just include a new pressure reg before the bleed valve to achieve the same set-up?

I'd also include the extra one way valve bit....

Or would it just be nicer to build the new system.

BASS OUT

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95GTST Rising Star

95GTST

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Bass, should work fine, bleeders or whatever you want to call them are just pressure regulators anyway. A friend of mine's actually got his setup in cabin.

SK, can you explain a bit more about the last t piece section. I just have mine going from plenum -> releif valve -> regulator -> wastegate.

I just blocked off the other section where the stock boost system went with a bit of hose and a bike tube cap... Was I not supposed to do this?

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jezzrrr Community Regular

jezzrrr

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I have to say I recently installed EBC in both GTRs and I cant describe how much of a difference it made in both cars. I (by chance) installed HKS EVC in my R33 and Greddy Profec B II in my R34. Ide recomend the HKS EBC having tried both.

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

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Bass, should work fine, bleeders or whatever you want to call them are just pressure regulators anyway. A friend of mine's actually got his setup in cabin.

The longer the hoses, the slower the response from the valves. Air compresses and if you have a lot of air (as in long hoses) then you get pressure waves moving up and down the hoses. This is particularly noticeable on a windy road, or anywhere where you are on and off the throttle a lot. Best idea is to keep the hoses as shop as possible.

SK, can you explain a bit more about the last t piece section. I just have mine going from plenum -> releif valve -> regulator -> wastegate.

I just blocked off the other section where the stock boost system went with a bit of hose and a bike tube cap... Was I not supposed to do this?

I wrote that post/PM's for a guy with a GTR. The "T" piece is used to supply the 2 wastegate actuators on a GTR. If you have a single turbo (GTST) then you don't need the "T" piece.

So that is simply ............

Plenum --> hose --> grey valve --> hose --> black valve --> hose --> wastegate actuator

Hope that helps :(

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MicK51 Community Regular

MicK51

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i ran the boost source hose from my ic pipe just after the turbo in an atempt to shorten the hoses, does haveing the boost source before the throttle as apposed to after the the throttle (from the plenium) make any difference?

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

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One Top Fuel dragster's 500-inch Hemi makes more horsepower then the first 8 rows at Daytona.

And over the 1/4 mile the crank goes around ~500 times and then they need a full rebuild. And some people complain about 5,000 k oil changes! :headspin:

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

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i ran the boost source hose from my ic pipe just after the turbo in an atempt to shorten the hoses, does haveing the boost source before the throttle as apposed to after the the throttle (from the plenium) make any difference?

Nope, you get a different pressure to the gauge which feeds from the plenum due to the resistance in the intercooler and its pipework. But since you tuned the boost via the gauge it makes no difference. I assume you have a BOV of some sort, otherwise the boost controller circuit is going to get hit with large amounts of boost pressure when you take you foot off the throttle. :P

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MicK51 Community Regular

MicK51

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standard bov, seems to work ok. I was pretty impressed with the norgren setup, i'm still running a pretty standard setup so the quicker i get the boost on the better.

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